herbiemercman

Hi berg, I agree entirely, but if the traders have a good cv / reputation, and i am not suggesting that the ones on our club are anything but good, then they would do good business from recommendations, just like all our restaurants, garages, clubs, parts suppliers etc, if you pay out for your status, then this has to be paid for by customers. I have just asked who in the approved traders has leather seat covers? no answers. ! ! ! And if they import them, then they have to take their cut and be more expensive than the OEM. They have a choice IMHO to rely on their reputation, or to advertise and be a registered club supplier, it's a free market place, and i am not putting one before another, i am just saying there is more than one way of selling things.

You are right, it is back to my FFP, fit for purpose at a cost, if i want a pair of shoes to last 10 years then i will pay £200, and i am a trekker and i have done this, i buy "Meindel" boots, German, the lightest, vibram sole, breathable, guaranteed 3 years etc, i get a buzz out of waring them, but i would not pay £800 for a turbo when i can get what i want for £200, and if it breaks, and i do not think it will, i will buy another one, let's face it, going NA/T after 18 years of ownership is a big jump anyway. The guy that did my transplant is a real experienced pro and i have 110% convidence in him, and what he recommends etc. I also think the mapper you know is a major item, along with the surgeon's experience with the components etc, this to my mind is a key component for going NA/T.

Hi evinX, Yep i just did the same, i am not short of a bob or two, but some times we all like a good deal, BUT not painful rules and burocracy, all be it we live in a money driven society, apart from true love, money wins every time. lol.

Hi j-jza80, You are quite conversant with the turbos and technicalities etc, and i respect this, but to the uninitiated like emwa i am more than happy with the fantastic performance i am getting, i just hope it lasts.

Hi j-jza80, Yep it is like everything else, you get what you pay for, but there is also the thing we used in engineering when we did "cost benefit analysis" ,CBA, and we also carried out FFP ,fit for purpose, i think my aquisition is FFP, if i only get 2 years out of it, i am happy, we also carried out FMEA's failure mode and effect analysis, where you look at the gravity of failure, safety being top of the scale, cost was at the lower levels. Some one once told me that many British cars in scrap yards had some expensive components which would last 50 years and most of their cars were in the scrap yards after only 8 years, they went bust. I only cover circa 1,500 miles / yr in my mk4 toy, so i think my turbo will be ok for my requirements. There are also many members who have good things to report about the cheaper turbos they are running.

I have just looked through the original posting on this subject and only just observed that the company in the USA who provide these seat covers have warned all members that they are not an approved trader.! ! ! ! ! so why did the thing go virol?

Am i correct in thinking that the garret turbos would be 5 x the cost of the ones supplied in the complete NA/T kits?

Hi ripped-fear & scott, Yes i am happy with that situation you outlined. Do any of the registered traders have the leather seat covers? Was the member who posted on the seat covers he had purchased within the rules? or is it just the "group purchase" which is different and requires mods approval, and i can now understand this.

Hi Everyone, I want some black leather seats for the front of my car with the red inserts and the supra logo in white. I have contacted the company in the USA and asked for a quote as all their prices are for front and rear. Some one posted on this subject and said the quality was good and was well pleased with them, he also i think was suggesting a bulk buy discount may be possible through the club? but this seemed to just melt away? I s it because the company are not registered with the club? If this is the case then i am not really understanding the club rules and how the rules serve the members who support the club, if some one posts that they have seen a good deal on e-bay etc, then this benefits the members and is really a lot of what the club is? or should be about? Can some one tell me the rules as i am not clear on where they draw the line on recommendations, against sort of advertising for a company they have just aquired a good deal from for the benefit of all members.

Got my grandsons videoing the rocket ship up to Houghton Towers, it's a good road, quite quiet most of the time with some banked up bends and two half mile straights, when i give my car the bifters in second gear it sounds like the rear tyres are spinning, but i know it is the turbo spooling and cavitating, sounds great, the power out of bends is some thing i never had before, you would think that the pre NA/T 220 bhp would be impressive, but there is no comparison at 400 bhp, i am not a front wheel drive man and a rear wheel beast with LSD is great, especially with some real power. Yes the clutch is hard work, but i have soon developed a driving strategy which is very close to what a member on here has recommended, when the clutch is cold it is just like the stock clutch, but when hot you have to start the strategy. I find it hard to see how you can design a clutch that is soft and smooth like the stock clutch and can take double the torque? If there is such a thing, then the NA/T experts as far as i know, do not know about it, otherwise all the post NA/T guys would not be rubbishing there agressive clutches? I was told this is par for the cource. If i do get to a point where the clutch is unacceptable i will contact Chris and i will replace the clutch. However i love the quality and performance of this build, it is fantastic for some one like me who for 16 years never thought a NA could be totally transformed, bit like the "ugly duckling story". Will post some pics soon. Herbiemercman.

Hi walkerstrider, I wish i could help you, but this area of the Supras to me is the most complicated and most important on the car, i just had an NA/T carried out by a experienced professional, but for the mapping and importance of getting it spot on, especially for mpg and performance, is why i did not fit the kit DIY. I would consult a pro and get it sorted as even if you do get it running seemingly ok, you may still have mpg issues or running lean which could damage your engine. Good luck anyway.

Just converting the headlights to the "black nights" look, and bought a buffing machine with all pads etc, i refitted the stainless steel criss cross grille and you can see the FMIC through it and looks great, pics coming soon, thanks for comments. herbiemercman.

Hi Dudes, Got my car back and it is awesome, it's not too loud but pulls like a big electric motor, 5 th gear at 80mph and with not much accelerator it pulls in seconds up to the 130,s, on the Autobahn of cource, lol. The quality of the components is superb, and some are bespoke due to me wanting my stock rear box, good solid exhaust burble but not silly noisy. these cars are so low down and aerodynamic and with circa 400 bhp it is a mega drive, also i can drive it like it was pre NA/T, which was my spec for the MAP, another item which had much time spent getting it just right. I have not floored it just yet because it is fantastic just gently putting the boot down and i want to get used to this level of power, it pushes out of corners like nothing i have experienced before, i wont be trying much in the wet.lol. I chose the pillar mounted gauges for oil temp and boost and they look great. The only things i do not like are the stage 4 clutch, it is a bitch, it is either in or out, sort of judders, sick in traffic jams etc, but it may bed in and it may be par for the cource if you want this level of performance. The other thing is the MPG but early days for me to judge this as i have been going quick and my car pre NA/T only returned 20 mpg, who cares. I appreciate there will be some members out there who have lived this dream and with even more BHP, but "your world is your oyster" and i am made up. Can't say who did the conversion, top secret, but it is a credit to him and his operation. herbiemercman. PS: pics to follow..

Hi Brazil, How did you know you had this problem? Hi Chris, Again more good information, many thanks, i am not sure if i will have the ni content high spec material on my turbo, time will tell?

Hi jza800, Maybe i have missed some thing, i cannot find what the total cost is for just the front seats in leather with red back inserts, they only quote the full set cost, front and rear, circa 550 dollars. then the P&P and import duty? What is the up to date issue of getting a group buy together or have the mods stopped this?

£40, P&P won't be much very light, the n/s damage is the off put, this is a good offer.

Hi kendoskeg 11, How are they fastened to the car and i assume they fit on the rear arches ? If the fitting is straight forward and i think it will be i would take them off you for £35 due to the N/S damage.

Why 3" ? What are the advantages ? from my experience the pressure drop must be minimal.

Hi J Jza80, I know what you mean, but as i have said before in some posts, i just want to know i have the extra power on tap, if when i let her go it cops out, then i won't be pleased but i will then buy another box, no probs, the worst thing for me is crashing, had a few big offs on bikes and it is not nice.

Pure silicon grease, great staying power, high melt coefficient, lubrication, will not stain clothing. I apply it to the rear tailgate rubber seal as they can start squeking with the weight of the tail gate on the rubber seal, it makes the rubber look like new. A small pot at a plumbing merchants is circa £8 but well worth it. Can also be used in the engine bay as it does not get upset with high temperature. Hope this helps.

In my opinion if your car is the manual gearbox and you want to make sure you modify the oil return safely into the sump pan, and to change the clutch, which is essential, and to fit other bits whilst the engine and gearbox is removed, is the only way to go. I accept that doing this in your driveway is not really safe or practical, but if funds are low and you are determined to have a go, then, good luck. You will save £800 ish on labour, also, what about the most important thing, the mapping and testing ! ! without this bit you could be wasting fuel, burning out valves if she is running mega weak, and the pain of not knowing if she is running at the optimum settings for BHP and engine longevity. I would sooner save up longer and make sure an expert does the conversion, experience is the main thing IMHO, you learn the hard way and you cannot find a substitute for it, i am a HND mech & electr. engr, but as i just said, it's the knowledge and experience which matters, no way would i consider a DIY in my driveway. herbiemercman.

What headlights are fitted they look great, did you do the conversion or did you purchase them?

Hi Ripped-fear, Are your 20mm spacers the conversion plate where you do not need the stud extensions, what make are they and what is the cost?

Good info that JayJay, i did not know that you could get "off road insurance", i am sure many members will not know that.

Hi Ben harmer32, At that mileage if it is correct? you have a real bargain IMHO,especially if it is a manual box, can you post some pics, and list what is on it? How many owners? many thanks.