herbiemercman

Hi Guys, Some of you must have been down this road with oil temp issues. I have only just post NA/T had an oil temp gauge fitted, so i have never known what the pre NA/T temp would be, all i have to go on is a qualatative observation in that my oil used to stay a golden colour but now after only 300 miles, post NA/T the oil has gone black. Oil temp 100 deg.C with moderate drivng, and 135 deg.C fast cruising. So am i right in thinking that if you are taking nearly double the horse power from the same basic engine, then it will produce far more heat, so if this is a fundamental fact, then a high spec oil fully synth etc and possibly an oil cooler must be required? What else is there that can cause overheating of your oil ? My coolant running temperature is as it has always been? There are differing experiences and opinions on this subject, may be some honest but wrong beliefs, so any comments from your experience will be much appreciated.

I had this exact same problem and it was the idler valve, easy job to clean, but if it is the electronic bit with an intermitant fault, you need a new valve and they are silly money. Good luck.

Just fascinated, why would you want to remove the filter ? what is the benefit ?

Hi Guys, Many thanks for the comments, the oil temperature sensor is just above the oil filter boss and yesterday i was driving "fairly quickly", not caning it, just constant high speed and the oil temp was 120 deg.C and stayed at that, driving normally it settles at 90 deg.C. Some days back on a 200 mile high speed journey the oil was at 135 deg.C most of the time. I have ordered a high spec fully synth oil and then i will keep a watching brief, may fit an oil cooler later depending on the condition of the new oil?

Hi Dudes, Like many people i say i am not bothered about my MPG, and with the performance i now enjoy post NA/T i would be quite forgiving in the MPG returns i was getting, however the good news is, i only ever, for the past 20 years, averaged 20 MPG, and guess what, post NA/T, and giving it the bifters, i am still getting 20 MPG, fantastic. Changing the subject, the acceleration in fourth gear on M/Ways is awesome, a few BMW, Audi, and Porsche etc, do not match it? and they are trying, then give up, the Supra looks a beast and there are so many you-tube examples of this monster, that may be a lot of high speed car owners, just give up ? Anyway, i did not have this sort of power on tap pre NA/T and it has made my car, before it looked like it has muscles, and now it HAS. ! ! herbiemercman.

Many thanks Josh.

Hi Guys, I am learning to live with a post NA/T transplant and I just did a 200 mile high speed journey (90 to 110 ish), and my oil temp was averaging 135 deg. cent. for 2 hours or so. Now from past experience my oil following an oil change looks a golden colour, now i have new semi synth oil as the NA used to have and after the 200 miles it has turned black? So i assume the turbo and extra power etc has cooked the oil? So i would be interested to know from NA/T members what there experience has been ? I have just ordered 5 litres of "Titan" fully synthetic 10w - 50w competition oil, which contains esters etc and thrives on hot turbos. £56. inc.vat. delivered. "Opie Oils". My coolant, pre the NA/T conversion, was "4 life", waterless,by Toyota, and was fine for me for the past 20 years, a fantastic product, especially for tuned engines, quicker conductivity for fast warm up, anti-corrosion etc, etc, £34. inc.v. 10 litres.del.free. The "Vauxhall pink water based stuff will be drained away. IMHO, if you spend a few grand on your engine, then the best liquids is a must. What do you think ? herbiemercman.

Hi Dudes, I have a red ! triangle and a brake drum symbol showing on my dash display, some times pulling the hand brake lever up and down will clear this, but it then pops up again for no reason? do i need a new switch? and does anyone know how to get at the switch Also there is a white electrical plug connected to the brake servo resevoir, what does this do? is it just monitoring brake fluid temperature? Many thanks in advance for any replies. herbiemercman. SERVO.BAFFLE,FITTED..jpg (189.0 KB)

Hi David, Good point i missed the obvious, i will cover the exposed bit of the ties with ali foil tape. The back of the shield will be covered with corrugated ali/ceramic paper insulation, "U-Value" very low.

I was considering commisioning a crystal styrene moulding tool to manufacture the lens for the mk4, however i have restored several crystal styrene headlights on a few cars, at least three mk4 supras. This is what i do. there is no need to remove the lens, and some may know that 50% of the time you will crack it, even if you cook it in an oven. Buy some 800 and 1200 wet and dry and with a squirt of washing up liquid in some warm water, massage the surface of the lens with the 800's until the slury goes from pale yellow to white, then repeat the massage for 5 minutes with the 1200's.. Wash off with cold water. Now with a lambs wool buffer and some "solvolautosol" paste, buff up the otherwise frosted lens, you will soon see a new gleaming lens appear. Finish this off by hand and remove all traces of the polisher paste. Now spray the lens three fine coats with acrylic laquer, this gives a super gloss finish and also seals the crystal styrene which is micro pourouse. Nothing else can match this process. Go for it. The pici aached is my lights 17 years old and they were very yellow. ! ! ! herbiemercman. NA.T.CAR.HOOD UP..jpg (202.3 KB)

Where do you get hold of a R154 box/ and what is it's origin? also are we saying this puts an end to w58 post NA/T failures? how much would one pay for a R154?

Apart from the battery and the tyres, the rest depends on the atmospheric conditions in the barn in the winter months IMHO, cold metal, leather, plastic, etc, if they fall below the "dew-point" in winter ( the lowest temp where the moisture releases from the air), and ventilation is not available, then storage is not a good thing at all. However if the car was prepared for the storage, eg: waxoil, oil in cylinders, jacked up off the ground, battery removed, windows, boot and hood opened, then that could be different, but if just put in the barn and left, then not good, there could be many hidden issues, it's not rocket science.

Hi kendoskeg, Spats now fitted, they look great IMHO, they complete the the profile of the original "commando" side skirts which were an optional extra at the OEM in 1995. SPATS.NS.ALL CAR..jpg (202.5 KB) SPATS.OFFSIDE#2..jpg (195.2 KB) SPATS.REAR..jpg (194.5 KB)

Hi DavidP, that looks like a lot of thought and know how has gone into it, i am assuming this is a supercharger?

Hi bignum & berg, I made an aluminium baffle today which protects the clutch hydraulic unit and brake servo from the heat of the downpipe, i have reconnected the heat sensor plug on the brake servo and i am confident this should cure the overheating of these items, i am sure this is why the brake temperature sensing red light on the display came on. There has been a smell of things getting too hot, may be most of this was the turbo jacket and glass blanket on the ss exh. manifold , as they have organic binders on them, from the weaving tools, but the bulkhead insulation was getting very hot etc, so my baffle should eliminate all this, time will tell. Tomorrow i will sort a small baffle for the oil breather filter, no problem, must admit i did not realise this was a concern. Let's be fair if some one has the experience to develop a conversion like this and get it mapped and tested etc, then if i have to do some minor tidying up, then no problem. 20151009_142830.jpg (198.0 KB) SERVO.BAFFLE,FITTED..jpg (189.0 KB) SERVO.BAFFLE.#2..jpg (186.1 KB)

Hi sidewaysdan, The air intake pipes are the same size as the stock ali diecasting on the engine, about 2.5 inches. Hi bignum, Thanks i will attend to the things you listed, i am not sure what or why the brake cylinder res plug is missing? Hi ripped_fear, The "doctor" has the dyno stuff, i have not asked for it as the car's performance is enough for me. Hi berg, The pipes sit well like this and slightly foul the bonnet lining, where the lower pipe goes through the hole in the engine bay body i need to fit a bracket, it's not causing a problem, but i don't like pipes feeling loose.

Thanks evinX, Looking forward to them, but not the work involved in fitting them. The link jza800 kindly posted was excellent, it was amazing to see the rusty worn out leather seats the guy in the USA was working on, his car must be well rusty, i have no rust anywhere on my car, certainly not the seat frames.

Hi Fitz, It has the 3 inch stainless steel pipes, no cats at all and i just asked for my oem stock silencer to be retained to give me a deep burble, sounds great not booming and too noisy. Apparently according to the NA/T converter guy the silencer is only slightly restrictive which slows the spooling a little, NOT that i would have noticed, i have a rocket ship, best thing i ever did as i have owned the car from new in 1996. Ten years of development have gone into perfecting this kit and it has only in the recent years that it has been available at this level of perfection and reliability. The only thing that is not spot on is the stage 4 clutch, that is a bitch when it gets up to temperature.

Hi Guys, Here are some pics of the finished item. It's a quality job, now waiting for leather seat covers in black with red inlays, and fitting rear spats which i stole from kendoskeg,just had to repair one and then spray them black, boys love toys. 20151007_161029.jpg (196.3 KB) 20151007_161210.jpg (195.2 KB) 20151007_161219.jpg (193.9 KB) 20151007_161257.jpg (191.4 KB) 20151007_161320.jpg (187.7 KB) 20151007_161148.jpg (192.9 KB) 20151007_161126.jpg (189.9 KB) 20151007_161237.jpg (200.4 KB) 20151007_161010.jpg (203.1 KBlol.

Hi jza800, Yes they are real leather, would not consider anything else, and i want to thank you for your posting which put me onto this. Did you use cable ties instead of the hog rings and do you have any thing i should look out for? as it looks a difficult job.

P1040080.JPG (157.5 KB) P1040082.JPG (156.5 KB) Hi Dudes, Just ordered my pre facelift front seat covers, ten days for delivery and yes you have to pay an import duty, so i am looking at 480 dollars. I also studied the fitting procedure and it is time consuming and very fiddly IMHO, but worth it, a job to do inside my garage with the beast in the driveway without any seats, keeping me out of the rain.

Hi Listy, Many thanks, that seems fair, OK.

Hi berg, I have made my money, but if i wanted to make more i would invest in the seat covers, just like the headlights, i would commision a moulding tool to manufacture the crystal styrene lenses, they would go like hot cakes as most people do not want the hastle of refurbing, and it can never be as good as new lenses, not sure why no one has done this? Glass is expensive and quite heavy and most members IMHO do not look 20 years ahead for them not yellowing, ask Toyota why they stopped the glass ? lol. This club, IMHO would lose credability if it stopped members posting what good deals they have found, like the leather seat covers, and , if the company selling them, think they would enhance their sales from becoming an authorised club trader, then, fine. What would badly wound this club is for members not being FREE to tell all members what gems they have found.

Only just seen this final posting, this must be the bargain of the year, just shows you can steal a good supra for half it's "real" market value. ! ! ! ! I do not like this as it lets the breed down for all supra mk4 owners.

Many Thanks kendoskeg 11, They just arrived, they are great, by weekend they will be repaired and sprayed black, i have the factory fitted Toyota Commando side skirts and your spats behind the rear wheel arches finishes this off just fine. herbiemercman.