herbiemercman

Hi Everyone, I ask this question as i realise that running lean can cause expensive piston failures, so apart from the engine starting to run rough and it starts knocking, then what other symptoms, if any, are there ? Also if the engine has been professionally mapped the ECU software should not change, so the causes must be down to, low octane fuel, a faulty fuel pump, worn out injectors, or a partially blocked fuel filter. ? Can you think of anything else. ?

IMHO Supras attract attention for their looks and a good exhaust note, but messing with the engine management to make a "bang" is beyond my way of thinking, however, it is everyone to there own, all the people i know would keep asking me what is wrong with your car, is it knackered? when it banged from the exhaust, some members, in fact, most members, want the supra owners to establish a credabal reputation, i could be wrong, but they will post accordingly. Anyway enjoy your bangs, but you need to listen to Trick's comments. ! !

Thanks for info Scott, they are not engine oil pipes, did not know the power steering gets hot, i do now, so i can forget the idea to connect the engine oil cooler to these pipes, goes to show a little knowledge and assumptions are not good. lol.

Hi Scott, You may be correct, but i would be suprised if the power steering oil worked hard enough to warrant a cooling system ? I have oil coolers on my big merc for the autobox and SLS (self lev.susp), but these work hard and the oil does get hot.

I just read all this and i am impressed with the knowledge that Scott and Tricky have, IMHO they are a great asset to this club. They have helped me a great deal, and i appreciate it, they must be approaching the "Chris Wilson" status, who i know personally and he is a supra god. herbiemercman.

Hi Craig, Car looks great and the mrs, mine used to help, but not anymore. Do i understand that you are looking for a stock front bumper ? if so, why? as i think the one fitted in your photo looks cool. I have just fitted a stock new front bumper, in black on my car and i may be interested in a swap. 20151007_161029.jpg (196.3 KB)

Hi Tricky, Thanks for the oil cooler kit info. I may not need an oil cooler if the new temp gauge shows the oil temp to be ok?, but i am the kind of person who likes to plan for the worst, i am a HND mech and electrical engineer, this helps me understand the engineering, but not the A to Z of the Supra breed, this club is a great interest and life line to me. Back to the 12mm steel pipes which form a U-shape in front of the radiator on the stock NA's, it could be a Toyota small oil cooler, and Chris Wilson and my NA/T man will know if i am guessing correctly. If i am correct, then joining the oil cooler to this pipe is very convenient and i can retain my filter adapter plate with the temp sensor and the take off for the turbo oil feed. I don't really want to disturb the oil filter arrangement as it gets messy and other members have said it is not easy to get at and prone to leaks etc.

Hi Tricky and Chris, Thanks again for your help, i take the point on not having the oil temp sensor in the sump plug, and because it always reads higher where it is in the filter sandwich plate adapter, then that is ok. My boost and oil temp gauges are cheapows so the upgrades which my NA/T man is sending me, are much higher quality, be interesting to see what happens to the oil temp ? With reference to the oil filter sandwich plate adapter, which i will only require if an oil cooler is needed, then i have the option Chris mentioned, and i will buy a thermostatic sandwich plate adapter, presumably this will be marked for the thermostat controlled outlet and a non thermostat controlled outlet for the turbo oil feed? What do you think about my idea to connect the oil cooler into the 12mm pipes in front of the radiator, i assume these are oil pipes? 20151007_161250.jpg (190.1 KB)

I really appreciate your help, Tricky and Chris, you both know i have a great respect for my NA/T man, it's like i have three top dogs with good experience and i am enjoying the knowledge i am gaining, this makes owning a car like the mk4 Supra more enjoyable. I will ask about the cooling for the turbo on the cars he tested, and if i do fit an oil cooler i will fit the thermostatic sandwich plate. There is a basic ( non-thermostat) sandwich plate adapter currently fitted for the NA/T conversion, it has the oil temperature sensor screwed into it and next to that the fitting for the turbo oil feed, so i would like to know if i could end up with two sandwich plates if i do end up with an oil cooler ? or is there a thermostatic one that could give me a connection with a non thermostat controlled outlet, to feed the turbo, and two outlets for the flow and return to the oil cooler, and a connection for the oil temp sensor? I ask this as i do not like the idea of two sandwich plates. Also i could fit a sump plug adapter bush and move the oil temp sensor, if such a bush is available ? The alternative would be the possibility of coupling the oil cooler up to the 12mm pipes in front of the radiator and adding an inline thermostat ? What do you think ? I have done most repairs and servicing on all my cars and i like knowing they are spot on, the tuning of a supra is another dimension to people who do not know the A to Z of this breed. That is why i drew the line at not doing my own conversion. This thread has also brought good help from other members and it's great, they to will be learning and i will keep the info coming until the problem is solved. herbiemercman.

See next posting some think went wrong with this one.

Hi Guys, Just been in touch with my "NA/T man), I was asking him about a sandwich plate, with thermostat for my oil cooler etc, he said wowe, stop there, i have been testing two cars with my kit fitted, one with the big wide open exhaust system and the other with a tight restricter fitted, as i needed to know if a restrited exhaust could cause the turbo to overheat and cook the oil to 135 deg C, and after a hard drive the open exhaust was circa 100 deg. C and the highly restricted was circa 108 deg.C , neither cars have oil coolers, and non of his previous NA/T's over the past years had oil coolers. For this reason and him being involved with the experienced mapper thinks that the oil temperature gauge is faulty ? I asked him, then why has the semi synth new oil gone darker in 350 miles ? he replied that many car's oil goes darker even the ones where the oil temp is showing only 100 deg C. So a good guy wants to know what is happening and sending me a new oil temp gauge, 3 x times the cost of the one that is fitted. Be interesting to see what the outcome is ? I must admit i wanted an oil cooler as my other cars have them and i find it hard to not see why one would not be better all round. having said that i am would not be looking forward to removing the front wheels, the headlights and the front bumper, a balls ache. lol. herbiemercman.

Hi David, I have no knocking and car runs great, done 350 miles now at good speeds etc, presumably the piston damage takes a long time to take place? Also my NA/T man did lots of mapping with a very experienced guy, so no pre-ignition etc. Your pici does show how important acurate experienced mapping is. Thanks for info.

Thanks style, just as i thought.

Hi Guys, I will be fitting an oil cooler soon and i am advised that the best location is below the near side headlight just inside the air entry aperture, this seems logical on the same side as the oil filter and there is a space for it, may just need to whip off the battery and the headlight? don't want to remove the whole front bumper, did this some years ago and it is a ball ache. Has anyone fitted one and do you have any pictures. Any help will be much appreciated. 20150911_000142.jpg (199.0 KB)

Hi Tricky, You may be right about the EGT but i have the same MPG as before and the exhaust is fairly sooty, before it was more dark grey, i have passed your comments on to my NA/T man. The down pipe is 3 inch diam and the pipe to the rear is 2.5 inches dia to meet two 2.5 inch pipes running about 3 ft to the rear silencer. I have not mentioned lean running or knock in any postings, what is knock? and why is this serious? many thanks. Hi Abz, Thanks for the info re the "tenable Touring Medallion", hope i do not need it and the oil cooler solves all, my exhaust sounds really good, a deep burble.

Thanks Guys for your help, just managed to reach my NA/T man and on all his previous conversions he has not needed to fit an oil cooler, i asked him is it possible that my turbo is running much hotter as it had to have a different MAP to the others as i wanted to keep my stock rear silencer etc and this restriction is causing the overheating, he agreed and is sending me an oil cooler kit, what a great guy he is. The situation also explains why i have had to fit extra baffles and ceramic insulation on the brake servo and the bulk head. This is real bespoke tuning, interesting and you keep learning, thanks for your patience, i had to ask the club site the questions as i could not get hold of my man for the past several days, he was on hols etc.

Ok Gaz, My first thread was about "do you need an oil cooler" my second thread, which i now realise i could have merged, was "why is my oil overheating" as i was advised originally that an oil cooler was not necessary, so i thought, why am i overheating. Anyway i am ordering an oil cooler today, and i thank everyone for their help.

I think i have to agree, it's just that some well respected members think it is ok to go NA/T without an oil cooler, but that has not been my experience and i have not been hammering the car, just fast cruising with an odd burst, oil 135 deg C and turned black in 300 miles or so. It must be peoples interpretation of what hammering means and now i feel from my experience that the oil cooler should be included in the NA/T kits.

Hi David, My post NA/T driving and the high oil temp supports what you are saying and Tricky has sent me a good technical reply saying the same. My previous advice was i would not need an oil cooler unless i was hammering the car and that too cold oil was also not good either, I have NOT hammered the car, just sustained fast cruising with the odd burst, so it comes down to peoples opinion on what hammering means, from the comments to date and the experience i have had with high oil temp and black burned oil, i accept an oil cooler is required, and they are not cheap, they should really become part of the NA/T kits, IMHO. Thankyou for your help.

Hi Tricky, Good technical answer which makes sense to me, before i shell out on an oil cooler, big bucks, do you think i could be ok with the titan high spec fully synth oil ? £55 for 5 lit. There are different opinions on this and i was given the thumbs up with a semi synth oil and no oil cooler required?

So all NA/T's need an oil cooler ? I have been told that many do not have them ? Why ?

Thankyou guys good info.

Hi Tricky, That posting yesterday was about how to combat high oil temp, new oil, oil cooler etc, this is a question about what can cause high oil temperature, hopefully it is normal when you go post NA/T, but would like some comments to see if there is some thing that needs attention?

Hi Guys, My brother has NA/TT and it has the factory fitted "Turbo Run On" fitted, i am sure most of you know that this was to protect the turbo bearing and oil overheating following a fast drive etc. So to my simple way of thinking why would this not be necessary on a modern day single turbo application when we go NA/T ?