Lude

Personal prefference, te37 are my fav. Classic wheel. I would get them in white, youl look like the amuse supra then :-)

I own a bpu tt. It is thirsty work, but i dont use it all the time. Just sees the summerr and even then i use it on weekends and m maybe once to work. I use my 900cc corsa mostly. Cheap to insure and great on fuel. I think if i only had my supra i woudnt enjoy it as much would probably cost me 60 a week in comuting (20 miles a day)

Think the fronts are easier to do than the rear. Dont hold me to that though. Rear bearing is 60 on ebay with long warranty too. Depends on labour then. Be under 100 though

bumping this, can anyone confirm the sequence you tighten the manifold? i have googled, and all i can find is sequences for V8. also read that you only use sealer on the ends of the gasket, not all on inside etc

wheel bearing possibly, they usually do the whurring noise first then when get bad do the scraping noise. usually a brakes noise though

Is yours on all the time? Or does or does or does ir come on and go off when driving. Or come on when driving and go off when ignition is off

you used a new gasket though did you? ive used the old ones, as ive read they are re-usable. just wondering if its leaking due to the way ive tightened up the bolts or if the gasket needs replacing? want to get the car out the garage for 2012 soon

ive removed & re-fitted the intake manifold and throttle body, using the same stock metal gaskets. now they are leaking air. (did a proper boost leak test for anyone who read my ferris beuler thread ) asuming the correct way to tighten the manifold is 3 & 4 first, then 1, then 6, then 2, then 5? with the throttle body do you have to do the top 2 bolts 1st or the bottom, or work diagonally? i have read that the gaskets are re-usable, but would it be better if i got a appropriate sealer also? or should it just be a matter of tightening the bolts correctly. or get new gaskets? thanks in advance

60mm in the vent yes. you need to take the whole fan out, then remove the blades, so you keep the outer ring of the fan. then your gauge fits snug in there bit of sealer/glue to keep the gauge to the outer ring too PS excuse the old photo when i used to live with mam & had posters on my wall

shiney IC pipe there

mine has aftermarket grounding kit also by the looks. ive got: one from battery to the strut area (where ignitor is fastened to) one from battery to the intake manifold (at front near the PAS pump) one from battery to the rear of the engine one from battery to the alternator didnt have nothing to the air con pump would imagine theres one to the starter motor but cant remember

maybe easier to just remove yours and either polish it up yourself, or send it to mitchell9006 on here im sure hed do it for you. PS the part is heatshield for break fluid resivour

ive just done a boost leak test on my car, as i have a leak somewhere. and i too have had the manifold & throttle body of. did the test today, put soapy water on the engine, put air in the engine and bubbles came from the throttle body too! glad i found it. i didnt have my sockets with me today, aparently the gaskets are re-usable? can anyone confirm if the gaskets are always good to re-use? and is just a case i havent tightened enough? or do you usually need to use new gaskets?

does it shut without the battery in? you havent left any tools in the path of the bonnet closing have you, eg on the struts?

update: done a propper boost leak test today. removed air filter & blocked off. put a tyre valve to the intake manifold. had a compresser, filled the engine to aroun 0.5Bar (thats all it would hold) put soapy water around all the IC pipes, dv, all fine. put some over where the throttle body connects to the intake manifold, leaking there also leaking where the intake manifold connects to the runners, and where the idle valve connects to the intake manifold. this is because i have had all the manifold off recently, to clean & paint it up. PS no air was leaking where the duck tape covered the dv return pipe. wil get a nice rubber one though. i will admit now the ferris beuler method woudnt have been pritty dumb glad i know where the leak is from, i re-used the existing metal gaskets, is this the reason why its leaking air? or have i not got the manifold sitting/tightened unevenly?

update: done a propper boost leak test today. removed air filter & blocked off. put a tyre valve to the intake manifold. had a compresser, filled the engine to aroun 0.5Bar (thats all it would hold) put soapy water around all the IC pipes, dv, all fine. put some over where the throttle body connects to the intake manifold, leaking there also leaking where the intake manifold connects to the runners, and where the idle valve connects to the intake manifold. this is because i have had all the manifold off recently, to clean & paint it up. PS no air was leaking where the duck tape covered the dv return pipe. wil get a nice rubber one though. i will admit now the ferris beuler method woudnt have been pritty dumb glad i know where the leak is from, i re-used the existing metal gaskets, is this the reason why its leaking air? or have i not got the manifold sitting/tightened unevenly?

Im working up gloucester this week. Wont be able to meet you though, what pipes are you refering to?

Ebay ones are around 60 and few on here have them and have lasted years

Loving the blue dash :-)

The only thing which would worry me is the theft cover. I would call them to check it. Usually if your car gets stolen away from your house the insurer applies an additoonal excess. I did a good few quotes and found cci were chdapest also

Wow suprised how much people depend on air con here! If you know which pipe has the hole i would get a second hand one. Threw some of mine out when deleted the pump and rad etc, as they were twisted and snapped after i removed them lol.

I had similar issue, was caused by previous owner incorrectly installing the boost controler. Check that the sequential system is plumbed correctly as stock. With the exeption og the boost controller. Maybe worth removing the boost controller and checking if it still does it. There is a section in the FAQ which shows the stock siquential setup :-)

hissing or whistling? only ask as i have a boost leak, and i have had all my intake manifold off recently

is it defo coming from there?? you bolted it back on correctly? did you take anything off the throttle body?

Lol i suddenly thaught it was an amazing idea pmsl. was your post about it being not tha bad that convinced me to do it. Il just have a good looksy ang remove and refit all the fmic piping, check the intake pipes and sequential piping again tar for input all :-)