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sdistc

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Everything posted by sdistc

  1. While I can't help but express some personal scepticism as to the need for all the media hype about swine flu, that is primarily in hindsight when comparing swine flu deaths with the average deaths caused by "common" influenza. In purely scientific terms it had the *potential* to be a very dangerous virus - highly contagious, and (probably) lethal - which meant that early detection and quarantine was essential until an effective vaccine was produced. There are conflicting views on vaccination in the medical fraternity, and there are always side-effects (with, regrettably, occasional "friendly fire" deaths) - but this is weighed against the overall good: will we save MORE lives by vaccinating against an epidemic/pandemic than we kill by adverse reactions. Of course, that answer has to be "yes". But, unfortunately, lives *saved* are not able to be counted effectively, which means less successful political public relations propaganda.
  2. Look forward to meeting some/all of you, and seeing the way you blokes do Supra builds over here Unfortunately I won't have a car, so I'm sure I'll be ogling each of yours and living vicariously
  3. Looks awesome - very impressive fabrication work! Keen to see final results
  4. sdistc

    1998 RZ VVTi 6 speed

    Engine Specifications: Built 3.0L with heat-coated custom pistons & rods Stock VVTi head with custom 264 exhaust cam Turbocharger & Induction: Garrett GT4294R HKS exhaust manifold HKS 50 mm external wastegate plumbed back to exhaust Custom alloy intake manifold with 100 mm throttlebody/ radiator overflow / catch can / power steering reservoir Blitz LM Spec Intercooler PWR radiator with twin thermo fan setup Greddy 24row oil cooler Fuel, Tuning & ECU: Autronic SM4 with CDI Defi oil temperature / oil pressure / water temperature guages with Defi Link module Eboost2 boost controller Twin in-tank Walbro fuel pumps, Aerpro fuel regulator, stock fuel lines, Power Enterprise fuel rail with 1000cc injectors Exhaust: Blitz Nur Spec cat-back Custom 4" dump and mid pipe Drivetrain: Stock V161 Getrag 6 speed with C's short shifter Triple plate Exedy Carbon/Carbon clutch Stock A03B Torsen LSD currently, B03B casing/TRD centre upgrade in progress Stock tailshaft/driveshaft Weight Reduction & Transfer: full weight minus spare Suspension, Wheels, Tires & Brakes: Rays GTS in 19 x 9.5 (front) and 19 x 10.5 (rear) Yokohama Advan 048 in 19 x 265 (front) and 295 (rear) Stock OEM 4 piston (front) and 2 piston (rear) brakes using Hawk HPS pads and DBA400 slotted rotors TEIN Superstreets with in-cabin TEIN EDFC (electronic damper force controller) Carbing strut brace (front) Cusco strut brace (rear) Interior & ICE: Stock OEM SR3 Recaros Stock OEM Carbon fibre steering wheel TRD 320km/hr speedometer TRD 10k rpm tachometer Mild stereo - Pioneer SuperTunerIIID head unit - Focal 6x9 mid splits and tweeters - Rockford Fosgate Punch Amp - Rockford Fosgate 12" subwoofer - Aerpro 2.0 Farad capacitor Exterior: Stock, apart from Trial replica rear bar (soon to go) Performance: Max power - 695 hp @ rear wheels on BP98 Ultimate, - 830 hp @ rear wheels on race fuel Max speed - I did 150 mph overtaking once 0-60 - 2 years. And still haven't had time to run it on the track
  5. sdistc

    From the album: 1998 RZ VVTi 6 speed

  6. sdistc

    From the album: 1998 RZ VVTi 6 speed

  7. sdistc

    SDISTC

    From the album: 1998 RZ VVTi 6 speed

  8. Fantastic work! Love the photographic documentation, and the attention to detail.
  9. no problems, mate. Hope your friend gets it all sorted out without too many dramas - maybe get him to do a pictorial writeup and post it up here?
  10. Specifically (taken from Kruso's post on SF.com) Copied directly for those that cant login to Clubna-t.com/forums Quote: Originally Posted by Dramon View Post INTRODUCTION The A340E we will be discussing came mated to both the 2JZ-GTE (TT Supra and Aristo) and 2JZ-GE(SC300 and Non-Turbo Supra). It also came in the 4runner, Tacoma, and some Jeeps and Volvos. The A340 is different than the A341 which came in SC400s and LS400s, with the short explanation of the differences is that the A341 has a slightly longer 1st gear. The bellhousings of the TT auto and N/A autos will both bolt up to the 2jz, however on a visual inspection the TT bellhousing is slightly larger to clear the larger TT torque converter. While I am not sure how similar the A340E from the SC300 is to the A341E in the SC400 I would imagine the link below which is about swapping input shafts. Theoretically though you should be able to swap the input shafts on the two trannies which would allow you to retain your SC300 torque converter, flexplate, and flexplate bolts. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/archi.../t-336619.html The tailshafts are also different with the n/a tranny having a hole for the driveshaft to slip into and the TT auto having a bolt on flange. Swapping tailshafts is much harder though as you'd need to literally disassemble the entire transmission to swap the tailshafts. Here is a thread which should give you a general idea of what you'd need to do to swap tailshafts. http://www.supras.nl/index.php?optio...d=35&Itemid=52 Links http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost..._DIAGNOSIS.PDF http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/AT08.pdf DIFFERENCES TT Auto - HP Limit -425-450 w/ a good cooler. - Valve body has 4 solenoids, the 4th solenoid controls line pressure electronically. This allows smoother shift modulation. - Has a larger torque converter that is more efficient. - TT torque converter requires use of a TT flexplate and TT flexplate bolts. - Driveshaft bolts onto the transmission to a 3 bolt flange. - Has a different input shaft than the n/a tranny. - Has more clutch packs than the n/a auto. - Valve body solenoids activate linearly allowing more precise transmission control. N/A Auto - HP Limit : ~325-350 w/ a good cooler - Transmission line pressure is controlled by a cable and only has 3 solenoids in the valve body. - Has a slip type tailshaft housing for the driveshaft. Driveshaft slips into the transmission itself. - Valve body solenoids have an on and off activation. The biggest problem with the n/a auto's in our cars is the fact that it has an extremely low HP limit. You can shim the accumulators in the N/A auto which allows for quicker shifts, reducing the amount of time the clutch packs slip and therefore creates less heat allowing for more hp. But the problem with n/a A340's compared to the TT auto is there is a limit to shimming in the fact that it simply doesn't have enough clutch packs to hold much power. So far, people with n/a auto's don't have many options when it comes to stronger tranny's. BL and many other companies offer rebuilds that allow for a higher hp limit but these services generally cost around 2 grand and can't hold much more than the stock TT auto, which isnt' very much more considering how much it costs. In these services the most notable change is they swap out the clutch packs with raybestos blue plate clutch packs which are stronger. When you shim the accumulators however, you should may want to consider shimming the 1-2 shift a little less agressively because the next weakness in the tranny after clutch packs is the 2nd gear sprague and hard 1-2 shifts can break it. The reason swapping a TT auto is complicated is because of the line pressure issue with the valve bodies. Believe it or not, the cable the n/a auto has is NOT a kickdown cable but a cable to control line pressure. The problem with the TT tranny is line pressure is controlled electronically via a solenoid. The solenoid is linearly controlled and allows for more precise line pressure control. So far, the only way to control the TT tranny is with an AEM, however. A 1500 dollar solution to simple transmission control. Latent Solutions makes the 'suprastick' tranny controller but it will only work with the n/a valve body, ie: valve bodies with mechanical line pressure. Pictures The TT tranny is the bottom tranny and the n/a tranny is the top tranny. Here you can see the differences in the tailshafts and that the two trannies are almost identical internally. http://www.nopistons.com/forums/gallery/med_gallery_6207_226_187587.jpg Closeup of an n/a tranny. http://www.nopistons.com/forums/gallery/med_gallery_6207_226_1590440.jpg Closeup of a TT tranny. http://www.nopistons.com/forums/gallery/med_gallery_6207_226_1583330.jpg The TT valve body is on the bottom and the N/A valve body is on top. You can tell the TT valve body is much larger and doesnt have the two tubes going into the back part of the tranny. One of these tubes sends fluid to the B3 accumulator while the other one sends fluid to lubricate the tailshaft. http://www.nopistons.com/forums/gallery/med_gallery_6207_226_381886.jpg This is a picture of an n/a tranny's clutchpacks. http://www.nopistons.com/forums/gallery/med_gallery_6207_226_854205.jpg Here you can see that the TT tranny has more clutchpacks. http://www.nopistons.com/forums/gallery/med_gallery_6207_226_373683.jpg All the n/a hardware (valve body, mechanical line pressure cable, and solenoids) bolt right into the TT tranny. http://www.nopistons.com/forums/gallery/med_gallery_6207_226_70995.jpg http://www.nopistons.com/forums/gallery/med_gallery_6207_226_507128.jpg You'll need to swap the wiring harness for the valve body though. http://www.nopistons.com/forums/gallery/med_gallery_6207_226_1324713.jpg Wiring harness comes out easy, just swap the n/a for the TT one. http://www.nopistons.com/forums/gallery/med_gallery_6207_226_826008.jpg The TT tranny has a simple plug where the cable for line pressure goes into the n/a tranny. Simply pull out the plug and swap the cable into the TT tranny. http://www.nopistons.com/forums/gallery/med_gallery_6207_226_708433.jpg You also need to swap the gear selectors. http://www.nopistons.com/forums/gallery/med_gallery_6207_226_1305612.jpg The accumulator on the far right bottom by itself away from the other cluster of 3 accumulators needs to be swapped with the n/a one and springs. When swapping in the n/a valve body you dont need the cap that comes with the TT one. http://www.nopistons.com/forums/gallery/med_gallery_6207_226_1088684.jpg I plan on however, swapping the valve body from a non-turbo A340 into a TT A340 so I can have the extra clutch packs AND the mechanical line pressure control, so I don't have to go AEM. More to come!
  11. a helpful thread from the US forums dealing with this very issue: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=554660 Basically, swap the internals from a JDM TT autobox into the NA.
  12. I try not to talk about BHP - better to talk about how much boost on what size turbo, as dyno figures can tell you whatever you want. Plus, whenever someone asks, of course you tell them the best possible figures the car made - not necessarily what you drive it on
  13. sdistc

    Typical NHS

    Oh, I know how the boot vs plaster works. In my experience, there's too many variables (i.e. too many things that can go wrong by trusting patients to not muck it up ) when using the walkboot. But, given the elite sports history you are probably the small percent of highly motivated, self-aware and obedient patients that will benefit from the early rehab opportunity given by the walkboot. Are you going to a private physio, or NHS?
  14. sdistc

    Typical NHS

    Did they not replaster you 3 or 4 times, changing the angle of your ankle each time?!? You sound like you're going to have a fun 6 months of rehab.
  15. Morjesta! Specs on your car?
  16. ahh, sorry to hear, guys. I know what happens though - my mum is a GP, and liked to hack out anything she didn't quite like the sight of However, she (being in Australia, the land of skin cancer) was pretty accurate about what looked bad or not.
  17. Not always. There has to be a clinical suspicion before randomly cutting out anything, which usually results in shave biopsy or punch biopsy prior to full scale assault.
  18. Is there a reason to get it removed? I mean, has it been biopsied and found to be pre-cancerous, or just unsightly?
  19. Well, I wish you well - for what that's worth. I have to say that I spoke a little hastily earlier, and should have said "driving TOO fast" - because you can certainly get rapidly out of shape in a powerful RWD car without a lot of road speed. Comment about driving ability stands though.
  20. WHAT!?! The car was *just* finished! This is terrible news for you. But as Geo has 10000% correctly said: I, for one, call BS on his "not driving fast". Either way, he's a pretty incompetent driver. Good luck with resolving this.
  21. I just giggle when I read "Cockermouth". Not just a town, it's a lifestyle
  22. very nice How does it feel on the road?
  23. Thanks for the compliments, everyone. Am still considering bringing it over here at some point... but pragmatism is telling me to buy something here that's not just weekends, short-distances and good weather.
  24. haha - well spotted! To be honest, I totally forgot to hunt around to find it after the build - just add it to the (what feels like) hundreds of little finicky details I need to rectify I thought you were referring to the bonnet, though
  25. Just realised that I never posted up any of the second photographer's photos! Apologies for the oversight, Teon :s And without further ado:
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