Scooter

i'll try and make this too......

Thanks Simon, it all DOES apply as i've got the 6 speed V161 box fitted to the later NA's I'll look into the feasability of doing this myself, sounds just like an oil change but with the complication of not just being able to pour in the new fluid. Cheers

I'm with Millhouse on the check points thing. IMO the meeting points should be organised and maybe a 'leaving from' time set but the journeys i think should be less organised. This doesn't mean people can't post up routes or help each other out, but i don't see that many of the meeting points will be far off of main A-roads, will they?

I've been looking through my new cars previous service invoice (by Toyota) and found that the gearbox fluid and the coolant were changed approx 7,000 miles ago. The gearbox fluid used per the invoice was 'Shell Donax TX' I've searched for this oil and came up with the following blurb from shell's site "Shell MTX Fluid Shell MTX Fluid is a fully formulated synchromesh transmission fluid (STF) for use in manual transaxle/transmissions. It offers excellent synchronizer performance, oxidation stability, yellow metal compatibility, and low temperature performance. This product will satisfactorily lubricate manual transaxles/manual transmission from –40°F to +300°F." I'm pretty sure that there is a specific toyota fluid for the Getrag Box and i've heard that some other fluids have caused problems in the states re the seals in the box. Does anyone know the changing period time or mileage for the trans fluid and if this Shell stuff is ok to leave in until it'll be due?

ah I see. As my cars last change was done at Toyota maybe someone got carried away with one of these...........

er that SST pic shows the tool being used on an external bolt head which mine doesn't have? Anyway who cares now! i'm off out for a drive Thanks again peeps

ok collared the mechanic guy over the road and he popped round with a more substantial tool that managed to lock down nice an' tight. on his second attempt he managed to free it :) the new one is now on, only as tight as my ickle girlie hands and arms could do it up.

ARRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGG........ the filter seems to be welded on, the chain tool and me have tried their hardest but I think I may have to resort to the screw driver

cheers for all the advice and suggestions, i've had three shreaded wheat and am gonna take an early night, and tommorrow one way or another its coming off

from the top. The room on my current non turbo is vast compared to my old TT where i just looked at it and said to myself 'leave well alone'. I'm not sure if we've got the same chain tools. I can't really tighten onto the filter prior to turning, it sort of tightens to it when you go to remove it, if that makes sense...........

Cheers for the responses guys, i've just had the mother of all battles with the filter and it won. The chain tool i've got just dents / scrapes the outside of the filter which is looking a little worse for wear now, but I daren't go mad as i don't want to damage it too much. I really can't see me getting it off without some way of getting more leverage on it. Tis dark now so in the morning i'll try nearer the base as Steve suggests but i think i may have to call on a mechanic friend to sort me out this once........Arse

yeah Steve i meant me on my own! It appears the last service technician let loose on my car may have been built like a masonary toilet. I had a metre long pole for extra leverage over the ratchet to loosen the sump plug! and i'm not weak but the filter just will not budge with both hands on it. Think i may slacken off the sump plug a little, although its not tighter than before, and just put the new filter on tight with my hand. Thanks for clarifing things, just gonna have another go at getting the filter off, wish me luck!

cheers Syed, 18ft/lbs is not very tight is it? can anyone give my a idea of this tightness compared to say a wheel nut? can anyone else recommend a specific type of removal tool?

I changed the oil on the Supra today. No big thing for a fair few of you on here but my first change on any car! I have a few of questions 1) The sump plug was b*stard tight is this how it should be? 2) The sump washer appeared in good nick and as it was stuck hard to the sump i left it as was and kept the new washer for next time, is this OK? 3) I had a few attempts to remove the filter but no go. Access on the NA is not a problem but brute strength or my 'halfauds special' oil filter remover (handle and a bit of cycle chain) are not working. Now as it was a bit of a stalemate i whacked in the new oil. So whats the best oil filter removal tool? i'm thinking a short time with the old filter is not an issue, and i assume that the best time to change the filter now would be when the engines cold 4) Finally how much spillage can be expected when changing the filter? Thanks in advance Scott

I think we should do some sort of county to county Gumball / pub crawl. I like the group cruising as much as the meets People in different areas could nominate a suitable pub, we select one as the starting point and then post up the routes to the next one etc etc. You could go mad ie Kent / Sussex / Surrey /Hants /maybe up to Swindon (maybe oxford / northampton M1) or back to london on the M4 in a kinda of circular route. People could break off for home when / if they felt like it, and people could join when the convoy came through their area. just a thought............

Yep good day, nice cruise down and back with the kent boys and nice setting, food and atmosphere at the BBQ. Only worrying thing about it all is, as it got dark I was kinda impressed by the neon brigade especially Mid's in time with the music setup. It was pretty sunny all day so maybe I'd just caught the sun a tad, or maybe i'm turning to the 'dark' (or should that be 'light') side...........

Ok back to the important stuff ie my stomach, other than the shopping all we need is the usual BBQ tongs etc I take it someone is bringing these? BTW Millhouse / Jive etc i'm gonna bring some (soft) drinks for everyone at the BBQ.

i hope you get this sorted Chris. Now you 'Know where I live' so to speak i may as well come clean on a couple of points i would omitt from my sales patter I have run at pod and it did respectable standard car times, so i don't think theres any problem with the cars power, so should hopefully be a relatively simple hose VSV problem. Bobbeh if only i'd whacked it on the rolling road in Alyesbury way back! Thing is the guy i got the car from had had it for +2 years, and he just wasn't the modding type AT ALL, he'd had the major cambelt service done at McCarthys Toyota (where i'm sure it would have got a test drive) and also i'd had a oil leak repair (+general check over) done at Leon's,maybe it's not that noticeable unless you step from one to the other:conf: I'm still finding it mildly amusing / annoying that i've never experienced the normal setup.

Cheers Jive / Millhouse.... Dunk, same place as before at 2.30ish? PS does this mean we can cover your car in Graffiti, i've always wanted to give a supra a 'Mad max' matt black look:D

Dave i'd be up for this, as long as the Southampton boys Jive Millhouse etc are ok on the cool box / shopping thing, and don't need me to turn up there. Is Andrew coming from your way as well? BP garage is a bit 'the wrong way for me' but there aren't many other good meeting points, maybe the Hindhead lights area or Liphook services, but i'm easy really, depends if any others need to meet up and what they prefer. I'd suggest about 2.00ish to meet +- a bit depending on final meet location.

OMG how thick do i feel:D what you say makes perfect sense, i didn't think of the chamfer locking it all into place........ DOH

I took the wheels off tonight for the first time, to clean them and have a general look around the arches check brake pads and disk wear etc. Anyway I went to put the first wheel back on and as i lined up the wheel holes to the studs i noticed that the studs were not central in the holes of the hub part of the disk. So i put the wheel to one side and grabbed the studs in one hand and the disk in the other and found you could rotate the studs a few degrees (ie within the confines of the hole in the disk hub which is 1-2mm larger than the stud diameter) Also when I pulled on the disk at a point opposite to the caliper you could see the whole disk lifting away from the hub, like it would just pull off completely if the caliper was unbolted. In my experience (limited) disks tend to have small locating screws and i've never seen stud / disk play as discribed above. to try and paint a better picture, imagine that i put both rear wheels back on only finger tight so that there is no real clamping pressure. If i then put on the hand brake the car could be pushed back and forth (probably by a couple of cm's) as the studs moved from one side of the oversized disk hub hole to the other. This doesn't seem right to me, but i've noticed no problems during braking and the cars done 44k so i'm thinking possibly original disks BTW 98' smaller J-spec brakes

er yeh back on topic! it's in my neck of the woods so will try and make it...

I'm only going by the pic you posted, i've no experience of this colour in the flesh, it just doesn't look completely grey titanium in the pic to me, probably an optical illusion though.

having a mare trying to post up a thread link but if you search for 'MSB' And then look in the 'Quick Silver supra?' thread And scroll down to Peter Sharp's posting and look at pic saying 'Gunmetal supra' thats an MSB Supra.