Scooter

PAS fluid level is ok isn't it? mine did this when cold but was ok once warm. Turned out i had a very small leak from a corroded PAS cooler pipe, causing the fluid to drop below the cold level after a number of weeks which caused a noise just like you have described.

Chilliboy's car was indeed very nice, all show AND go! did you notice how there was no white ones there? "get the white one".............."no stick with the blue"........."but the white ones got turbo's and nice wheels"............."yes but the blue one is RSP and only 5 years old"..............."but the white ones still a 96 facelift"......................."yes but will i be able to sell the NA?"................AAAAAARRRRGGGGGHHHHHH:D

7 at the shell station in reading millhouse Jive mandygladstone Ash paul_y3k supra TT myster Peter Sharp Scott (Scooter) [bTW has anyone got a induction kit (ideally HKS mushroom type) on their sup? if so i need a demo cheers]

hopefully you can clear the blockage, if not its apparently one of the worst jobs to do on the supra:( Hope it doesn't come to this

thing is i like the factory option carbon fibre one in my current sup and wouldn't mind fitting that to my potential new one. I'm not bothered about having the airbag myself, but i'd want it all ok in the one i'd be selling on.

I see. I've found a max power type guide to replacing a airbag'd wheel, and it seems like it would be relatively straight forward to get to the unplugging of the airbag stage so i spose i could have a look at both. Does anyone with a parts CD have a picture of this plug on it? BTW the car i'm looking at is a 96 Facelift (4 spoke wheel) and my current car (three spoke wheel) is a 98 facelift. Does anyone know when the change happened or were they an option etc?

I'm up for this......... DEF millhouse supra TT myster leett Jive Scooter mawby? Supragal? pulse?

Search for 'Dyno result' third thread down. similar dip inbetween turbo's problem, may or may not be relevant (BTW would post the thread link but can't work out how:conf: )

Not thinking of doing it myself! Just wondered if its a relatively simple job for someone who knows what they are doing. I can't see why the column mounting would be any different and i think the airbag can be replaced / renewed, so it can't be too difficult can it?

ok looking like possibly 'HA' spec shocks.

Need info from anyone with or knowledgable about TEIN suspension. I've picked up the range available from TDI's site i.e. NA HA HE CS etc etc, but was wondering if there is a colour coding similar to the Bilsteins. Ie if the shocks are Green does this mean its a specific model type. I'm gonna search on the net in general but just thought someone here may know and could save me the hassle...

does anyone know if you can straight swap from a standard 4 spoke steering wheel to a later three spoke wheel. If both have airbags, does this matter? can you just disconnect and reconnect the airbag somehow? Or is this a non starter? Cheers

Its all about keeping the same rolling radius of the wheels front and back. Wider rears have lower series tyres (35) to stay approx same radius / diameter as the narrower fronts. There is a spreadsheet previously posted by Thorin, which i searched for but the link is now not working. I have it saved at home so could post it up later.

I should be getting my vvti NA on the the THOR dyno thing'a'me'gig so i'm thinking this should show if the vvti thing gives additional power. The NA comparison should be more conclusive as there are far less variables as regards power output than the turbo cars.

just to expand on what John has said, I miss that 60-100mph surge that is awesome in a TT. Motorway at 80 mph and someone moves in you're by them in the blink of an eye, the NA does the job but it's not quite the same. Ricepilot, the NA will most probably (obviously if manual) be a five speed not a 6 speed like in a TT that I presume you test drove along with the auto. This is an altogether different gearbox which from memory is many times smoother and feels more refined than the very strong but somewhat noisy/clunky 6 speed box. So this may swing you back to favouring the manual! The NA's linear power can make it feel a bit slower than it really is when driven back to back. However if you don't think you'll be satisfied with the power after a while, bear in mind that there is no real extra performance that can be extracted from the NA, by modding at a later date. Buying from a dealer is many peoples choice, which is fair enough, but it makes it all that more important to get the initial choice right as it will cost you more financially if you later change your mind. just a couple of points of view, the important thing is you seem sold on the supra in general, welcome aboard

as you all probably know i drove mine all the time in parallel mode without knowing. With nothing to compare except my old NA i didn't find it laggy, certainly not enough to question via this board if something was wrong with my, at the time, new car. I loved the car and its power, don't know how it relates to the sequential setup but perfectly driveable. I suppose the setup is more like the v-tec type cars where if you want to go for it you need to be in the right rev range, whereas i'm assuming this is less important with the sequential setup.

And another UK's have a diff cooler mounted in the vent behind the drivers door and in front of the rear wheel. My old car's cooler was in good nick but the pipe work joining it to the diff was incased in mud etc due to its location. You will not be able to inspect this area directly as it requires removing the rear wheel and removing a plastic cover, but you could look closely around where the pipes exit towards the diff for signs of leaking fluid.

A couple of things off the top of my head, Intercooler condition (left front bumper duct if facing the car) not too much of a deal on a standard car especially with autumn / winter coming but would be wise to budget the £500 for the spring if you've modding in mind. Pipework in front of rad (power steering) for corrosion (it can leak) look closely at the glass headlights and through to the reflective insides. They can be prone at this age to leaking, but at this time of the year it probably won't show, however you should be able to see the reflective coating coming away on those that are no longer 100% sealed. They can get quite a bit of condensation in them and are i think +£300 for the pair new. BTW these are just little Supra specific things, i'm ignoring all the general stuff, like start from cold whilst checking exhaust etc etc etc.....................

Gearbox oil 2 litres, per Simon B who gave a guide to DIY'ing it if you want to have a go? Search for 'Getrag box oil' (BTW not being pedantic I just can't do the bloody bbs thread link thing, link to a website/page no problem but not to an bbs thread:conf: )

Steve confess, exactly which one are you stalking, or have i missed the point entirely and your really eyeing up the bikers lunch.

Neil, if your actually based in Guildford best way is straight down the A246 Leatherhead road to A24, right at the roundabout towards Dorking a couple of miles and its on your left roght next to the road, can't really miss it.

Tony, from what i've picked up from this site, the V160 box cannot be overhauled, its a buy a new one if broke scenario. However i've yet to hear of anyone who's even heard of a broken one, let alone experienced one themselves.

Where's the CE mark on a standard exhaust then? I can't remember ever seeing any stamp etc on even a stock exhaust.

I'll be starting at Box hill too. Scanning the list of names it looks like the majority of people are from the east and that this is their first stop, so if your going to the first meeting point and there's not many around don't worry, just get yourself to box hill for noon.

Agreed, well up for this and can get one definite (maybe more people) along if current low numbers is a problem.