Scooter

contacted the local dealership today and unprompted they suggested the spike ecu explanation. There goes a few quid:eek:

FFS this doesn't sound good:( cheers for the info guys looks like i'll have the spend a little more on her before she goes...... Robbie the NA's fine (alarm works and everything), i've had it a few weeks now and i haven't bothered to take out the TT even though i'm insured on both. Its got good throttle response and the lower gearing keeps it quick enough plus its the most confidence inspiring one i've had through the twisties.

I've charged the battery up such that the ignition lights, headlights etc all suggest a good enough charge for the fob to operate the central locking as usual. The fob's small red light comes on when the lock unlock button is depressed but this has no effect on disarming the car. My castle key did not seem to have any effect on the alarm either. Can the fob be faulty even if the red indicator light is flashing with each press? its just that the fob battery was renewed very recently so i don't think this should be a problem, but i can't understand why i can't just activate the alarm as normal now the car is locked and alarmed as normal.

No amount of key fob pressing of either the normal of panic buttons (including both together) is having any effect. The car will just sit there quietly with the bonnet up and the battery connected to another car, the security light is on but the moment the door is opened the alarm starts:mad:

it weighs 12 lbs 4 oz or approx 5.5 kg. do you need the size of the metal matrix or the whole unit? BTW i think its just a straight swap and DIY'able for most although i haven't tried this myself, just what i've heard..........

The situation is this:- uk spec car /alarm has been set for a number of days as my car has been laid up. This had drained the battery to the point where the key fob wouldn't operate the alarm / central locking. I've just used the key to get in the drivers side and open up the bonnet to sort out the battery but on connecting a donor battery the alarm just keeps going off. I know some people have had this problem before and (sit down) I have SEARCHED for this and found a thread about this exact problem between Rob Moch and answered by Darell Payne. Unfortunately the answer was PM'd for whatever reason. This is not an urgent cry for help as i have other means of transport but it is starting to get to me:twak: (At least i didn't find this out when a possible buyer was viewing the car)

Should be able to make this, might even have a final outing in the TT, after all i'm insured on both cars for a month so it would be a shame to waste it.

yep I'd be up for this.

Yes lights on AND engine running, give it a go.............

Yes i'm almost 100% that the washers don't work without the lights on in fact i'm going to go outside and try it myself now

You have got your lights on when you've tried the washers haven't you?

Geezabloke, I THINK that you have less to worry about re breaking anything as i'm PRETTY sure that the UK's have an auto fluid cooler that the J-specs don't. As for technique I can't help, never 'stripped' an auto....

Wow you only paid £2750 for your auto................... See autotrader for uk manual £8750. Buy this and sell your auto and you may even make a few quid, rather than spending £'000 on the conversion.

Sorry people, but I managed to get a good used one from Mr Whiffin for a few quid........

I would say look at the car on its owns merits i.e. visual inspection, service records test drive etc. Almost all the major mechanicals (ie blown turbo's and melted internals) discussed on this forum result from cars that have been modded. A standard UK spec car is capable of high mileages one often quoted car has done 300K on its original turbo's + another was sold on by a member with 147K. My experience of my car (93 UK) is that parts of the car are showing their age i.e. intercooler, PAS cooler and diff cooler. I'm not sure how the degardation of these parts would have been improved by a lower mileage, after all I brought mine with 79K on the clock which is only approx 8.5k a year and these parts need replacing. What i'm basically saying is the buying of a low mileage car will not necessarily guarantee you lower future service/repair bills than a medium / high miler.

Indeed they do Sounds like you may be suprising a few people when you get it back.

Robbie, when's it gonna be back on the road? it would be a shame if you were to miss the next bunfight at pod, any small improvement should make you one of the favourites even in a lardy uk spec.

Chris, how long would it be before you got them after an order?

i had a leak recently. It turned out to be the oil pressure switch which is also on the passenger side of the engine lower down than the oil filter. Relatively cheap fix £10 part x2 hrs labour, so lets hope its that or something equally minor.

Jamie, are you sure the normally unlit pair of rear lights aren't linked to a fog light switch somewhere? my old NA had a switch in the small panel in the lower right footwell to activate a crappy add on fog light, but perhaps someone has done a more profesional job and rigged up one set of rears as fog lights, but the switch would be fairly obvious I would of thought? The Pete Bets conversion is well documented on this site (at the pre forum page) and I think allows all the brake lights to function and also lets a pair function as fog lights when required. this could be what you need.

Only by a few hundreths over Robbie and his UK spec and that is being breathed upon as we speak / type. Could be a different ball game next time. On the lights side of things, I'm not fond of the facelift rears but do like the twin brake lights of the j-spec in general. When in queues my old NA used to light up the whole interior of cars behind, and following a few it just looks better 'on the brakes' with 4/5 lights blazing.

Cheers everyone, I've had a gander at the pipes and I can't see any sensors etc after the first joint, after the second Cat (if that makes any sense what-so-ever) and with Steve that makes x2 people who think its only a down pipe difference.

Could anyone tell me if the standard UK & J spec exhausts are the same? i.e will a standard j spec cat back system bolt straight onto the second cat section of a uk spec car? Cheers

JamesG, seems you are right! sorry I made you go to the car to check.

Yes when handbrake is on! It's the Master warning light and it will come on for low oil, open door etc etc which also have their own seperate warning lights on the top of the dash to help you see whats wrong. No such light re handbrake.