ballsdeep

Tested the battery and alternator both turned out ok, then my battery went in the multimetre. So il put numbers up when I test again later. To be fair I'm lost with Testing the map sensor signal / earths it's my first time using a multimetre, do I leave the loom end plugged in and use a needle to pierce the insulation sorry if it seems obvious! Copy Greddy map sensor was replaced to day for a genuine one and still the same. Cold start low idle then 5 mins in cuts out. Going to try and get hold of another icv.

http://youtu.be/fsCCIsd8Voo

*update* freshly charged battery on today and turns out the diagnostic check works. But before I checked it i'd forgot to plug the map sensor back in. weather it's related I don't know but it pulled code 31 so I cleared it and started her up but what Iv noticed this time around is it doesn't idle at 2k from cold start. This is where it's sitting? maybe a clue?? It managed to stay running at this while I listened to each injector with a long extension bar and they are all sounding the same so would that rule out ones not stuck open? I did pick up on the fuel pressure regulator has a really loud clicking sound going on, is this normal and I'm only noticing now because the rev are SO low? Il try and get a video uploaded. So decided I would check for codes again but nothing so fired her up and for some reason the idle was much better 950 but dropping slightly then after 2mins it cut out Started her up again and it was fighting to run with the revs ridiculously low so switched off. intensions were to get it up to temperature but failed miserably! Lyndon I'm yet to check everything else but I have ordered a genuine greddy map sensor, I know it's not the best solution buying parts on the off chance but I always intended to get a genuine one anyway.

Data logging - maybe? I'm not sure I might see if lyndon would be able to take a look? Emu harness has been soldered in, it was first mapped April last year by tuning developments then I went for bigger inj and TT ffim so got lyndon (Nodalmighty) to map it maybe 2 / 3 moths ago now and It was running awesome just with two issues first being it would take a while for the afr's to get to 14.7 from cold, usually a few miles road and motorway it would then settle, idle would then very slight have a bit of a wobble! Just a thought would a large air leak lets say from the TT FFIM make the ecu add more fuel? After all the TT mani has been made to fit the na runners so could possibly be a poor fit? To be quite honest I'm not very good with electrics / multimeters!! give me a spanner any day might have to let someone else look at the testing unless I'm given clear dumb down instructions.

Patch extension bud

It was mapped again a couple of months back by lyndon and Iv had no issues, until Friday. the knock off greddy map sensor has been fitted for over a year now but at £30/40 there's obviously a reason why there so cheap! Found a genuine greddy one second hand I might take a gamble on?

Valid point but I do like to give it a go myself first plus I'd need to have it transported to the garage since it keeps stalling. How would I test the map sensor, I hate to say it but I put a knock off cheapo 3bar map sensor on so id like to test this first. Thanks for everyone's input so far.

No worries chris. So Iv just run out to see if I could pull some codes using the diagnostic port under the steering wheel and it worked? But no stored codes, but noticed with the ignition on my afr's was climbing, I saw 16 then switched off, now Iv got the fuel Pump ecu wired so its constant 12v so I rewired it back to stock so now with ignition on it was 14.7 so disconnected ebc and chanced a quick start to see what oil pressure I had. Started first time no smoke but idling low around 5-600rpm plenty of oil pressure and afr's @ 10.5 and started climbing, it got to 11.5 which is where the rpm dropped so low it nearly cut out which is where I crapped myself and switch off! Tried to see if there was any codes but again it wouldn't flash? I'm thinking this is due to the battery being flat? I went for another start, it fires but I have to hold the revs to keep it from cutting out but eventually it stalled and there was a bit of black smoke.

No its na-t na ecu / E-manage ultimate but running TT ffim will also be disconnecting the ebc Found out there's another diagnostic port under steering wheel so il try and e1 + te1 from here instead.

Where should I start chris..? Iv took the battery off for charge to see if I can pull any codes with out the jump leads connected? But it wasn't working before so I'm not convinced its going to work this time?

I was only saying the other day that it's been brilliant, and now this!! from what I remember the afr's at the time were fine! I'd only just started the car so it would have been running rich, I then drove for about 1mile. If I get a run today il note down what I'm getting.

I always shudder when someone says get a compression test I was kind of hoping the smoke was because I'd ran it 2mins before pulling the plug..? As for the ebc my other gauge is reading -20 but when I tried to re-calibrate the controller / solenoid it's had a hissy fit and won't even let me navigate through the settings, so possible faulty controller? Test drive today with the ebc disconnected wish me luck..

I do but Iv not been using it because at one point I thought this was draining my battery so disarmed it and haven't used it for atleast 3weeks now but il certainly look into it, I wonder if a low charge battery is what's causing it not to code read??

Nothing wrong with the fuel bypass, I had another one fitted before this happened so just swapped it out for a brand new one. Really I need to get it up to temp so I can check afr's. I could have missed something when removing the vac canister? Check this tomorrow, I just yanked it out!

Found out black smoke is fuel so maybe just overfueling because the ecu has been reset? Or flooded because Iv had a few failed starts due to the starter motor issue? What il do is see if its drivable tomorrow and clock a few miles. Diagnostic check I'm still unsure about?

Think Iv killed my engine..? I will start from the beginning, please bear with me.. Friday drove to work all was fine, come to go home and my gfb boost solenoid was buzzing constantly (turns out its some how out of calibration) controller was 0.6 at idle but I had another gauge which was reading correctly @ -20 So I drove off boost until I could pull over and check vac hoses and solenoid. Left the engine running, popped the bonnet and there was quite abit of heat and fuel smell then all of a sudden engine died? Cranked engine.... Nothing.... Tried again.... Clickclickclick Iv been having starter motor/battery issues for a while now so my theory was the starter motor needed overhauling that's why my battery keeps dieing?? Anyway overhauled starter motor and while it was off I decided to remove the vacuum canister since I'm running the TT FFIM. So starter motor back on, noticed the fuel damper bypass pipe was wet so nipped it up jump started car and it ran fine! Checked the fuel pipe but it was spraying fuel out half way down the line so I got hodge to make me a new one and I ordered a new fuel filter. Managed to fit them today started her up and all was well then 2mins of idling and it started hunting and nearly cutting out so I manually pulled the throttle cable and noticed thick black smoke out the exhaust! Then the engine died! I then went on to check the: Turbo - no shaft play Engine codes - strange one this, nothing is happening when I bridge te1 + e1 engine light, oil light and water light are on but no flashing??? Spark plugs - black and VERY slightly wet worrying thing is I pulled no2 1st and smoke started coming out of the chamber..?? Swapped my 2week old NGK Spark Plug Iridium BKR7EIX 2667 back out for my old NGK BKR7E 6097 Started the car but no change. I'm confused why the diagnostic check isn't working this time and if Its normal for the oil and water lights on the right instrument panel to stay on while checking for codes? Probably not as important but I should add I first checked for codes with jump leads still connected? Could it be flooded and air in the system causing the hunting and black smoke or worse? Sorry for the essay guys

Iv also got the GFB installed, had it for over 6months now and can't fault it. Lyndon said it was really simple to set up!

Cheers pal I found something quite worrying last night while overhauling my starter motor. my fuel damper bypass pipe was wet so I nipped it up then started the car, it started hunting so I checked the pipe again while it was running to find half way down the pipe it was spraying fuel out! :blink: As for the boost @ idle it turns out its most probably my solenoid having a wobbler?? Put another gauge on T'd into the same vac hose and it's reading the normal -20

Had an interesting afternoon today with my first brake down in the supra in 5years. First off when I started the car the boost controller solenoid clicks as it would normally to tell me its working fine, when I pulled off the solenoid clicked again.. though that was strange? I carried on driving but every time I pressed the accelerator it would click click click! :blink: Then I noticed the controller was reading 0 at idle, even though it was driving fine I immediately pulled over to see if any vac pipes had come off. Lifted the Bonnet and the usual amount of heat considering the weather and a smell of fuel hit me then engine cuts out?? After having a quick check of the wg and solenoid vac hoses I tried to start the car again but it wouldn't fire? Just cranked over a few times, then the battery died on me, I already know I have an issue with the starter motor so intend to overhaul that this weekend. Any way after a good half hour trying to jump start it finally fired into life but still shows 0 at idle and now idles very low but I did reset the ecu if that makes any difference? So chaps where do I begin? Gauge used to read -20 and has never cut out on me!

Weldone mate and welcome to the na-t crowd. Good luck convincing yourself it's finished.. Mines been "finished" for 10months now and Im still messing around with it!! Lyndon also mapped mine and did a wicked job, very clever guy with big cahonoes!! Didn't flinch one bit on the road map!

Think I might move to Shropshire really wish I could just drop the car off to you and be done with it. What should it be torqued too?

I still have this knock issue and can't for the life of me find where it's coming from? I checked the crank pulley but the tip ex marks from the last test are still there so ruled this out. It literally happens every time I press the accelerator one single knock? The car runs fine, boosts fine apart from one small issue with a very slightly jerky accelerator feel when getting on and off but Could this be down to a slightly out tps? Any more ideas?

There used to be a guy renting them out on eBay but I can't find the ad anymore? Is there anywhere else that rent? Wouldn't mine doing mine.

Awesome I was expecting a lot more than that! Just to confirm that's for front and rear arches sills and side pods??