ballsdeep

Iv Just finished installing the TT ffim on my na-t but I'm struggling to understand why the rpm won't increase, when I accelerate all I get is it bouncing? It doesn't increase over 2k and idles a steady 1k? after a couple of tries the idle sometimes drops to around 6-700rpm and sounds like it wants to stall. EDIT: I forgot to switch the tps loom plug pins (issue fixed) One thing I'm not sure on is the correct way the idle control valve fits. (Rubber seal???) Or if a damaged one would cause the same issue, (I might have been abit rough with the compressed air when cleaning it) EDIT: I installed the rubber seal the wrong way round (issue fixed) Tps I'm using is from a mazda (plug and play) purchased from David p now Iv tried to set it up but failed miserably! EDIT: decided to use a TT tps instead Any help or advise would be a great hopefully it's something simple?

I'm no help but mine is also like that, Iv no idea why? Subscribed.. Edit: I should add I don't have any warning lights but lately Iv had to jump start my car a few times? I thought it had something to do with my amazing wiring skills (4 gauges wired into the clock loom)

Sorry should have confirmed I Defenalty have the metal part up against the bolt head and the rubber down against cam cover! I must have just over tightened it then?

Glad I stopped when I did! So I'm guessing I need another washer with the s/s bolts I have, looks like the oem bolts have washers too.

cheers pal Google search brought up these, should I be using additional washers too with the bolts?

that's what Iv got! I was sure I had the metal part seated against the bolts?

That's what stopped me from tightening the rest..? But them again I was using a huge half inch torque wrench set to its lowest setting?

Now I am confused there is no plastic part to the washers I have? Just looks like a brass washer covered in rubber? Supposed to be genuine toyota washers bought from Chris Wilson (old stock)

Only got a 3/8 torque wrench but I left it in work, il use my 1/4 inch drive then. I have the metal / brass part facing up and the rubber side seated on the cam covers. Can we just confirm I need to flip them then? Thanks

Here's a better picture:

So I'm new too TT cam covers being na-t so I bought new bolts and new washers but I'm not sure on the correct way they should be fitted? I though they went with the brass bit facing up so started to torque it up using a half inch wrench and the bolt pulled through the washer? Is that how it should be? I stopped before it got to the correct torque setting as though it might not be helping using such a big torque wrench?

I mainly wanted the piece from the throttle body to the Intercooler, I suppose I could use a kit for the TT and fab the rest?

Where are we getting our kits from? Iv gone na-t and will be using the TT ffim but I really can't be bothered to fab my own piping up again!

Oh ok thought it was oem TT sensor. It came with the manifold!

Does anyone see there being a problem if I used the NA IAT sensor plug on the TT sensor on the manifold? I should be able to make it plug in by removing the inner plastic and tabs..

Some good info there, could we have some completed photos and anything you would have done differently? I think I'm going with the same ffim and I'm just wondering if its worth getting them to move the flange over slightly to miss the power steering??

Get a proper wg I tried to cheap out on this and ended up paying for 2 failed mapping sessions before I bought a precision pw46 its still going strong now with no overboost issues!

Thread revival.. Has anyone recently purchased new master and slave cylinder units and also the repair kits from toyota who can help with prices? I did the master cylinder repair kit a few years back so I'm guessing its my slave cylinder that's given up causing my pedal to stick down?

Little update.. So as well as my clutch grinding/screeching on take off my clutch pedal started to get sticky yesterday and then today it didn't come back up. Im guessing its a master or the slave cylinder issue since the fluid hasn't dropped! What I'm wondering is if the slave cylinder fails could it cause the release bearing to make the grinding noise I'm hearing?

Same here! I love the clutch just not the noise its awful very similar to a seized caliper with worn pads metal on metal.

Same clutch and same noise on take off, Has yours always done this? Mine started two weeks after mapping. I plan on replacing the centre friction plate on my fidanza flywheel, since its recommended to resurface the flywheel when installing? But I'm not confident it's going to cure the problem? What torque are you running if I'm on its limit @ 365bhp 370lbft you must be well over? Does it slip.. Can't wait to see your progress with the ffim, I plan on doing this very soon but can't decide on which one to buy! Xs power one is extreamly cheaper than the rest but doesn't look as nice!

I really like those! I did the eBay re-trim years ago but fancy a change now. I was thinking of using s2000 or type r seats but I'm leaning towards these now! Is the centre section grey or black? I can't tell?

Also use berg pictures as reference for your IC piping or you will burn through the 90degree hose very quickly For the power steering vacuum I used a 1/8npt barb hose fitting and drilled and tapped the intake hose.. Simples

I fitted new gaskets last year and everything was fine until I went boosted so I re torqued them to 7lb still no joy, so I used a bead of ht silicone but I'm still weeping. If I remember right I tightened them from the inside out.. Is that right?

Air temp sensor to intake, use the rubber grommet from your stock air filter housing, power steering vacuum to intake pipe and put a small k&n filter on the cam cover. That's how mine is!