ballsdeep

Mines the same, something is draining the battery or it's had its day! (Less than 12months old though) It was fine all week didn't drive it Friday or Saturday, come Sunday It almost didn't start, same this morning and afternoon but when I test the battery all is fine? I did notice I needed to scratch the positive terminal on the battery to get a reading..? How much did you Bosch one cost? I'd like to replace mine.

Yes mate tried again last night, engine check light came on and it cut out. I tried to find other posts which resulted in a dodgy ecu but came unstuck like ou said it seems odd that it's failed? Also the diagnostic ports works now where as before it would just stay lit up when looking for codes.

I wish it was that simple, I know where I ballsed up! when I fitted lyndons ecu stupidly I didn't let it warm up or reset it, so the first start up with this ecu the rpm was hunting badly so I just ruled It out straight away rather than let it warm up and see if it would cut out.. I took it for drive yesterday and it's just how it used to be, afr's at cruising I'm getting 13's wot 11's but idle when its warm is up and down between 14.4 - 15.2 I'm replacing the O2 sensor anyway and I will be putting my iridium BKR7EIX back in and go from there.

Well I hope its down to the ecu! Il do another swap tomorrow and recreate what I did today! Atleast I'm on the right path. it's been 3 weeks since Iv heard it purring!

Guys you have no idea how relieved I am! It's running!!! I know what the cause is now but don't know why it's failed? Or why it's decided to work all of a sudden? Basically lyndon aka Nodalmighty sent me a spare ecu to try but when I fitted it it seemed to hunt more than before so I switched off thinking this wasn't the issue but left it fitted while I tried a few other things then today after checking for spark and finally getting it running with the efi fuse removed and tps unplugged I let it warm up then plugged them back in. Since I needed to return lyndons ecu I swapped it out and what do you know it started ruff and the engine check light was on! Swapped it back and all is fine again, I'm rather confused why its decided to work now only after today's fiddling??? Would like to thank everyone who has suggested things to try especially lyndon and chris Wilson who have walked me through testing procedures! Original thread for anyone with similar issues: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?311465-Think-Iv-killed-my-na-t-cuts-out-after-5mins-idle/page2

Well guys tuck your advise to check for spark by removing efi #1 fuse removed no1 spark plug and put It back into the ignition lead and cranked it over, now weather this is the right procedure I don't know but it fired up rather too well? So unplugged the tps too but it still fired up rather too easy.. Anyway carried on checking the rest of the plugs and they all had spark! So decided to start her up with both the efi#1 fuse and tps unplugged... Result!! Started up idled for 2mins @2k dropping to 1100 and it's still running as I type this! Afr's showing 10.9 slowly climbing but it has always taken a while to settle at 14.7 normally when Iv drove it for 1/2miles. Think il try it now with the efi fuse back in but leaving the tps unplugged and see what happens?

They wasn't dripping but 2 or 3 of them were a little wet..

I think my O2 sensor is goosed? But let's start at the mysterious fumes/smoke coming out when I remove the spark plugs.. I attempted 2 starts just now but as usual it would fire then quit on me instantly! So pulled the plugs and the light smoke came out of no1 / 2 / 4 cylinders? Is this just fuel fumes? Anyway cranked it over to clear the bores, fired her up but held the throttle open @2k, then after 2mins i let off and it held the rpm @3/400rpm so quickly got a reading from pin ox1 for the O2 sensor and it read a steady 0.3v am I right in thinking its bust?

It's been off but long before this issue started, I'm exhausted trying to figure it out! Also just tried another tps just because I had one spare but I can't even get it to start now! And it still won't let me pull any codes? I even though about buying toquicktostop aerotop and swapping the turbo and manual box but when I suggested it to the misses she quickly shot me down with the locks will be getting changed if I do... :help:

Is this a bad thing? Never done it before so here's the procedure I followed. Since I can't warm the engine up it was done from cold All plugs out #1 efi fuse pulled Held throttle open while I cranked for 5 times

Well still no result although I did a compression test today and I'm no expert but I guess these are good for a 19yr old car? #1 - 190 #2 - 200 #3 - 200 #4 - 212 #5 - 200 #6 - 200 Now I think I need to focus on the injectors, and harnesses they are 550's from the rx7 cleaned and flow tested I will do a continuity check from the ecu to the loom connecter on both wires, is there anything else to do? Also the engine light is bugging me now when it cuts out I try to pull any codes but it won't flash! Just stays lit up? When I restart it sounds like a bag of nails and instantly cuts out!

Continuity checks passed on the wires I previously messed with, I'd like to inspect the injectors while the manifold is off, is there anything I can do myself other than check the seals? Also I remembered something today while searching the net for answers, what would cause too much fuel pressure? Basically when I would fuel up releasing the fuel cap the pressure would be so great it would hiss the entire time, and I could feel the pressure behind the cap forcing it into my hand?? Nothing like it used to be like?

Thanks will look into getting a spare to try. It couldn't possibly run any worse Lol no worries mate I only spent most of last night searching.. Iv no idea when the ht leads were changed but they look in very good condition. They are tight lyndon but I'm going to remove the manifold to check a few wires Iv messed around with in the loom so I will check them again! Thanks everyone especially lyndon and chris Wilson who have been very patient walking me through things to try!

After searching Iv learned the na doesn't have these sensors and reads its position from the distributor any ideas how to test?

Well it's certainly something else I can add to the list. Thanks Lol I'm not ruling it out I do use a diesel van most days! I wouldn't worry about being na-t I'm pretty sure this could have happened even if I was still NA?

Decided to start a new thread as the other one is really confusing, so for those who don't know my car suddenly cut out and wouldn't start again for half hour. When it did eventually start the revs were really low and it would cut out when coming to a stop. Showing check engine light and both oil can lights. when Starting the car from cold it no longer idles at 2000rpm but 1000rpm dropping to 3/400rpm, after 2/3mins the revs jump around and struggle to hold the revs, at which the car sounds awful and sounds like its knocking? It then cuts out with the engine check light on and both oil cans? With just the ignition on I get both oil can lights and engine check light on which don't go out unless I start the car. Diagnostic check - no codes (used to work perfectly but now sometimes doesn't even flash) unless I give it a whack. Tps - tested ok Map sensor - tested ok Water temp sensor - hard to test since I can't get it up to temp but I managed to got these figures: 02.1 cold 1.3/1.2 2mins running 00.5 after a huge 6mins of running Things Iv borrowed or replaced Greddy map sensor Engine ecu Idle control valve Fuel pump ecu Ignition coil Spark plugs I replaced 2weeks before for NGK Iridium BKR7EIX 2667 so decided to put the old ones back in BKR7E 6097 The last thing I will be checking are Compression TT ffim leaks And any wires Iv messed around with will be getting checked over. Failing this I'm all out if ideas!!

Trough I would post up my results on the temp sensor. Was hard getting a hot reading but managed 2 starts, second one ran for longer but still never got up to temperature. Multimetre set to 200k 02.1 cold 1.3/1.2 2mins running 00.5 (temp see picture) Hopefully I did it correctly, anyone have a part number for the 2jzge sensor

probably should have said what was me making noises and what was the engine, the interesting stuff happens at the end just after you hear me using my very precise tapping technique on the idle control valve. If I was confident it would make it to you without breaking down id chance a visit but I'm pretty sure it wouldn't make it and I'd probably do more damage?? In regards to the cam belt all is tight, thanks for helping out though chris

Another day and I'm still non the wiser? Iv done another video with some more clues for the techys. http://youtu.be/BU9kNQFyQ80 So as before Starts up fine but idles way too low for a cold start (it's got better used to be 6-700rpm) today was 1200 As the idle drops Iv been putting the ac on to increase the rpm slightly as it seems to help keep it running for abit longer but never makes it to operating temp. This time I was spraying brake cleaner around the vac hoses and manifold just under the icv and on the engine loom at this point the idles would drop and almost cut out. Then at its usual point 5mins into running it drops revs and hunts, while it's doing this it almost sounds like its knocking and the engine light comes on!

Just found it will try and wrap my head round it tomorrow! One last thing for tonight are these lights normal for ignition on? I can't remember? They stay on until engine is started no matter how long I leave it!

Thanks for that well injectors I should be able to rule out then Iv listened to each one and they all click the same. I guess il look into testing the temp sensor, cheap enough to buy so might just change it anyway. Cheers pal

A bung blocking this vac port just fell off in my hand what affect would this have? I should mention its had some work done to it. Also testing procedures for the following please Engine Temp Sensor. Fuel Pressure Regulator Locked open Injector

Dam it!! quite pleased with myself though so I'm feeling confident Iv just pulled the tb off so I can now attempt to setup the tps perfectly.

Well chris it was dark and wet but managed to get these Map sensor: Blue/red - 5.05 ignition on and idle Blue and white ignition on - 3.66 idle - 1.59 Brown ground 0.02 ignition on and idle Means jack all to me...

Thanks chris dc volts got it job for tomorrow now it's started raining!