T2 MSW

https://www.mkivsupra.net/topic/247077-seriously-thinking-of-selling/?tab=comments#comment-3533688 https://www.mkivsupra.net/topic/247338-idea-of-price/?tab=comments#comment-3535928 https://www.mkivsupra.net/topic/246922-whats-it-worth/?tab=comments#comment-3532388 Yep people don't post gauging interest threads on here It was posted on FB because there's no audience on here any longer. One would assume the right buyer would be on a forum dedicated to supras and may have already posted in the wanted section, could be wrong though.

Despite being told he was the only person to be driving it Is a sad day when the forum owner only posts his car for sale on FB

So what are we doing for the 20th year? Ive heard Wales mentioned a few times but zero details on it?

Id be taking this info to the machine shop that did the valve work and see what they have to say.

Thats disappointing but yes deffo get everything clean before testing again. and Id use that old head gasket to test it. It would prob be fine so take someone else input too, its not had a heat cycle through it so its prob still quite clean right now? You will kick yourself if you re-assemble it all and then get a HG leak. Positive you found the issue though and hopefully thats your one and only over and done with.

Seems a common issue, members have reported the same in the members section. Anyway welcome

Id use the same gasket to put your temp head on and test with that. Then once the problem is resolved again test with the same head gasket to make sure it all works as expected. Finally take the head off and clean up both surfaces before installing a brand new head gasket. Be thankful you found this now and not at a later date. Also good job you are using ARP bolts too or you would be going through head studs like you were funding Toyota for the next year

Simples, to push sales of the Heritage edition parts for the new supra where their actual focus is. They don't actually believe there is any money in the Mk4 for Toyota any more.

Yep good plan. Always good to have an expert there remote connected to keep an eye on things. You could keep an eye on the AFRs yourself but its worth having Romain there just to keep tabs on things.

CD009 is a good option and I think readily available. Ive been struggling to find the 420G boxes for less than £900 now

I don't think its been changed so its what ever is on the VIN plate in the engine bay. I was going to swap it out to a A02B with 3.2 pinion but never got round to doing it.

Yes for motorway use the M3 box needs a 3.2 final drive to make the gearing right IMO. That diff in that car does not have a 3.2 final drive

Try driving a Mk5, every BMW asking you to put window down, 'Is that a Mk5 Supra' Does it look like one? Does it say Supra on the back of it?

Id personally use break in oil if its new bearings, id defer to the engine builders and mappers recommendations

Sounds like you have a fair bit infront of you before even worrying about firing it. Id be looking to get the car to a state where you have done everything you think you need to in order for the car to fire. Then pull all the fuel Fuses, and disconnect all spark plugs. Take your oil feed to the turbo off and place in a pot. Crank till you get oil out the turbo feed. Re-assemble oil feed. then crank again and make sure you are getting good oil at the top of your engine and its draining from the turbo (and not leaking) Check the ECU is seeing good feeds from cam, crank sensors. Not sure about the Link but on the Syvecs you could do coil tests and go through each spark plug to ensure it sparks. (assuming you are not dizzy) Put fuel fuses back in and ensure getting fuel to your rail. Can do all of that before even thinking of hot fire

Paul is correct, each car is different. However im sure he has a baseline for a NA-T to get started on. If its just for fire-up so you can check the engine over and make sure cooling works, that should be easily achievable remotely

Are you using the Link? I would get your mapper to provide a base map, and then turn on the feedback/self map feature to enable you to start it yourself and have the ECU learn. You would never run the ECU full time like this but it enables you to Get a base map on there and fire it up whilst monitoring what its doing. Then when your sure its happy go through and check for leaks, cooling etc etc

Be nice for them to do what they said they were doing too and have all stock cars against each other in the dry.

There are arguments either way TBH. Breaking in hard and fast on the dyno is the racers method and may get you more power. But breaking in on the road will allow you time to work through any minor teething issues. Theres nothing to stop you pottering about on a base map with zero boost just to check all the systems over and then hand it to Paul to run in on the dyno. You will find with a new build the first dyno run won't be smooth anyway, when I did my built engine I did the 1000 miles road run in and it was fine - first time it saw boost it hoped boost lines and there was an issue with the waste gate so it had to go back a second time. If I did it again Id also go with the dyno hard and fast run in method. Paul knows what he is doing and if thats what he is recommending then thats what id go with.

That colour

Shame it wasn't dry. She puts up a great fight against the BMs. Never going to beat the gearbox in the new ones though its simply epic.

Absolute quality, look at the engine bay shot and the positive battery terminal cover is now protecting something on the shock tower

Do I have to keep quiet Love the colour of that brace, going to look epic that

Seems not only is the thread about rare but the members in it too How you doing? not been about for ages

Agree with Luc's comments that there is no need to open the block unless you have too. Compression test and poss leak down test to determine health and off you go. Ive had a fully built engine which I was never that impressed with, it never made good power which was mostly down to old school T67 turbo tech but even when I put the BW on it still struggled to make power and always felt laggy. I then had a completely stock bottom end with head work and modern turbo tech and that made into the high 700s with ease and really good spool. Nothing like the modern Precision's though, the power they make low down the rev range is really impressive.