tomgeer Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 Good luck with it all Mark, she'll be a beauty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markssupra Posted April 27, 2013 Author Share Posted April 27, 2013 Daw pulleys needed for this build. Lol Your pulleys do look cool mate Good luck with it all Mark, she'll be a beauty. Thanks Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 Nice picture of your boy picking his nose! did he eat it after? Ill text you next week, got some prices for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markssupra Posted April 28, 2013 Author Share Posted April 28, 2013 (edited) I think he had a nose bleed then, he gets them quite often. Thanks Rob Edited May 2, 2013 by markssupra (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markssupra Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 Gearbox mount was next to be removed. Next to remove were the engine mount nuts on the front subframe, get the engine crane and balance bar rigged to take the weight. So, was all ready to lift out the engine, started to take the weight with the crane, then nothing. Crane just lowered back down. Brand new crane with a leaking hydraulic ram that wouldn't lift a mouse t**d. Phoned the shop where I bought it and all that could be done was wait 2 weeks over christmas for a replacement ram. Not wanting to waste time,I managed to fix a 40mm diameter steel bar in place of the ram, and used a chain hoist fixed on the arm of the crane. This limited the lift height but I still managed to lift out the engine with no problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bailey Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Any updates mark? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markssupra Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 Will be updating soon chris, really busy at work recently sorting out a changeover happening at the end of May and working on car in between. Not enough hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markssupra Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 (edited) Update! Managed to remove the gearbox from the engine without any probs, then removed the torque converter only to have a load of trans fluid leak all over the floor . Should have unbolted the torque converter first then it would have come away with the gearbox, maybe then would have saved a load of mess. After a bit of fight with the engine stand and finding bolts long enough, it was finally on. Next was time to remove the OEM Turbo pipework and associated heatshields to get to the stock turbo's to be able to remove them. After stripping bits off that needed to come off, and then taking all the turbo support brackets off which were a pain! Don't know how you would do this with the engine still in the car, we managed to get the turbo's off with just the exhaust manifold remaining on the block. Next was to move onto stripping the inlet manifold side of the engine block, first was removing the pressure tank. Now was time to remove the top half of the inlet manifold. Top half of the inlet manifold now off, just leaving the remaining bottom half. Now the Inlet manifold is completely removed from the block. Next we had to remove all the sensors and connectors on the various places on the engine block to be able to remove the Loom completely from the car. Now moving onto removing the cambelt and also the tensioner and the engine mounts ready to start taking the cylinder head off the block. Edited May 17, 2013 by markssupra (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markssupra Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 (edited) Next it was time to remove both camshafts from the head, using an adjustable spanner to lock the cams, so we can remove the cam pulley bolts. Now it was time to take the cam pulleys off to start getting ready to take the cylinder head off the block... The Camshaft bearing caps had to be removed in a certain sequence as otherwise you run the risk of the camshafts bending, we numbered the caps up in the sequence they had to be loosened. Now that the cams were out, we cleaned and numbered up the valve buckets for reference. After getting the cams out we realised we needed a Snap on - double hex tool to get the headbolts off to remove the head, unfortunately this was on back order and had to be made in the USA, and it would be upto 14 days delivery. Six weeks later, still no tool from snap-on and we couldn't wait any longer. Head needed to come off so that I could measure the bores and order the pistons. We decided to use a normal hex tool but this wasn't deep enough either to reach the head bolts, so in the end we had to use a normal cut off allen key put into socket to be able to reach the head bolts. The snap on tool finally did arrive over 6 weeks later after orderiing, but luckily we had managed to remove the cylinder head from the block using the cut off allen key tool, would not recommend doing this as it seemed to make slipping and shearing noises everytime we tried to undo one of the head bolts, after a nervous few hours we got all the head bolts out without any problems and the head was finally off! Edited May 17, 2013 by markssupra (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markssupra Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 (edited) Now it was time to turn out attentions to the bottom end and to start taking everything out, first was the sump. Then we had to remove the oil pick up, baffle plate to be able to get the sump pan #2. After realising we were unable to remove sump pan #2 because the engine stand was bolted through it, so we had to move the engine stand bolts out of the sump pan and move them to a different location on the block. This is how it looked after finally get the sump pan off. Edited May 27, 2013 by markssupra (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markssupra Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 (edited) Crank out ready for cleaning and measuring. Measured each of the crank shaft journals in 6 different locations and at 90 degrees to each other and found that the maximum diameter was 61.999 and the minimum diameter was 61.989 between all 7 journals, only a 10 micron difference in diameter between them all so this was within the tolerance for the ACL race bearings. There was a very slight taper on each journal of 0.0025 mm. I then measured each conrod journal the same way at 6 different locations and at 90 degrees to each other again and the maximum diameter was 51.999mm and the minimum being 51.991 so the difference of 8 microns across all 6 conrod journals was again within tolerance for the bearings. Now that we had removed the crankshaft from the block, we could take out the Conrods and Pistons. Here are a few photos of the bores, all looked nice and clean without any scoring or ridges. Measured 86mm, so was still stock bores. Now I could order the pistons. Edited May 27, 2013 by markssupra (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markssupra Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 (edited) With everything taken off the engine block it was time to turn attentions to removing the front subframe/suspension setup from the car and to get everything out and removed from the engine bay. First job was to remove the front Brake Calipers and also the Washer bottle that sits in the passenger side wheel arch. After removing the above, we could take the Steering rack off the Subframe. After removing the steering rack, the next job was to remove the steering column from the front subframe as can be seen in the picture below. Then when the column was off we could start removing all the subframe bolts from the mounting points throughout the engine bay, there are quite a few! After finally removing all the subframe bolts, we were able to remove the subframe on a skate and roll it away from the car, this is how the engine bay now looked. Now the front subframe was done, now it was time to start on the rear of the car. Rear shock absorber bolt being undone. And the shock being removed from the car, we done this for both passenger and drivers side. After removing the rear shocks we left the rear of the car as it is, and decided to concentrate on the engine bay again. Edited May 26, 2013 by markssupra (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thetrashcanman Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 Progressing nicely mark, keep up the good work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 Nice work Mark. Ill drop you a pm shortly about the brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TubbyTwo Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 any old TT bpu bits that are coming off? Im always on the lookout for more shiny stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markssupra Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 Thanks all, lots to catch up on, working on it as I type. Nice work Mark. Ill drop you a pm shortly about the brakes. Thank you any old TT bpu bits that are coming off? Im always on the lookout for more shiny stuff All shiny stuff gone now mate, not much left apart from a few stock parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markssupra Posted May 26, 2013 Author Share Posted May 26, 2013 We then began on removing as much as we could from the engine bay. Started on removing parts from the Scuttle panel. Things such as various brackets were removed, and also the Engine Loom was removed from the bay and pulled through the hole you can see in the photo below. The ABS pump was removed. And also the Brake Fluid reseviour and master cylinder. A photo of the various brackets/pipes/hoses being removed from the bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luxluc Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 You don't hang around. Nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letmeshowyou Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 How have I missed this thread so far?! I'm really looking forward to seeing progress on this. Remember where I am if you ever need a spanner monkey for the weekend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carbon_Bullet Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 Top stuff Looks like there's going to be a few big powered aerotops on the road next year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markssupra Posted May 26, 2013 Author Share Posted May 26, 2013 (edited) The next job was to start on the relocation of the Fuse Box from the engine bay to the behind rear seat. As I also hope to relocate the ABS pump to the boot, I also needed to remove the complete engine bay loom as this this has connections to both the passenger and drivers side foot wells. Disconnected all the plugs in the drivers foot well so the orange bung and loom could be removed. Once this side was free, I then moved on the the passenger foot well to disconnect all the plugs and remove the loom from that side. Once it was all disconnected and freed from the plastic protectors on the inner arches, the whole loom could be removed for further rewiring. This will be much easier for me to work on as I can hang it up to work on it. I need to reroute the ABS pump connectors, windscreen washer pump etc. We then started on removing all of the interior of the car so we could get to all of the fuse box loom, we removed the dashboard from the car (this was fun! luckily the car is an aerotop as it can come out of the top! Also the seats, centre console/armrest, rear door cards, speakers, carpet and all the plastic panels in the rear and boot of the car were removed. While the interior is stripped out, I hope to get it re-trimmed and replace the heater matrix as its almost 20 years old. Don't want it leaking later if I can replace it at this stage of the build. All the wires behind the dashboard were labled up individually so we remember what they are when the car is put back together, I hope! Edited June 18, 2013 by markssupra (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markssupra Posted May 26, 2013 Author Share Posted May 26, 2013 You don't hang around. Nice work. All this only took me two days . Nah, to get to this stage was a few months work of weekends and evenings. Its gonna be harder to put back together! How have I missed this thread so far?! I'm really looking forward to seeing progress on this. Remember where I am if you ever need a spanner monkey for the weekend! Thanks matey, appreciate that. Welcome to come round anytime to get your hands dirty Top stuff Looks like there's going to be a few big powered aerotops on the road next year Thanks, hope its finished by next year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted May 27, 2013 Share Posted May 27, 2013 Rip the abs out and bin it! That's how we roll Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markssupra Posted May 27, 2013 Author Share Posted May 27, 2013 Rip the abs out and bin it! That's how we roll No mate, I like the ABS. Its going behind the rear seat, just need to redo the brake lines to suit. Looms already modified with the plugs extended to reach it Fingers crossed it will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markssupra Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 (edited) A quick update, a few pics of the parts going back on. Stage 5 head off Lee P's car with SRD 280 cams, all refurbed with new valve stem seals and shimmed to correct clearances. One of the rebuilt twins One of the HKS 50mm racing wastegates before stripping down to replace the bellow phragms and gaskets Will get some more pics up later Edited June 20, 2013 by markssupra (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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