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Dan's Supra Project


dandan
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If I go down this route, I'd prefer to file it down to the exact size, like you done. If you could let me know the outcome of the bolts, I'd really appreciate it.

 

I fitted the fuel rail and fuel lines over the weekend and also made a start on wiring in the new injector and IAT pig tails. I am waiting for some more loom tape to arrive before I finish that 100% but the bulk of it is done and I shall be fitting the plenum/throttle/IC pipes this evening hopefully. I test fitted this lump again....

 

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...and can now confirm that you will run into a few minor issues with the double gasket approach:

 

1. I replaced the two studs (one at each end) on the runners as the originals were not quite long enough with the plenum's thermal gasket. The rest of the bolts should be long enough. Ferriday supplied me with the studs so no need to hunt around if you decide to buy one of their gaskets.

 

2. The main brace supporting the plenum from beneath needs some minor modification (elongating the mounting hole so the bolt can still pass through and thread into the plenum.

 

3. Elongating the hole on the small top brace that goes between the cylinder head and the throttle cable bracket. Again this is a minor job and is needed as the plenum has been moved away from the engine by the thickness of the two gaskets.

 

None are insurmountable but it's handy to be aware of them up front.

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I also took the compressor housing off and put a tiny bead of sealer around it as these "H" and "HP" housings are not sealed from Precision. This needs sorting as a boost leak here is no good to anybody. :D

 

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Once I get the 0.81 turbine housing back from Zircotec I can get this rebuilt and fitted.

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Dan what sealant did you use as my housing is h & I'll need to do this.

 

Loving the thread BTW :D

 

Cheers Jay - I'll check the sealant and get back to you...

 

I managed to finish the injector loom and wire in the new IAT sensor last night. I then fitted the plenum, throttle body, FPR and all the associated earth straps and pipework for the plenum. I am waiting for my thermal gasket for the idle valve to arrive and once I have that the intake side 100% finished.

 

 

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All I need now is that parts from Zircotec so I can fill that big hollow spot on the driver's side of the engine bay :D

 

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This little lot arrived today and I am very pleased with the way it has all turned out.

 

The photos make everything look a dark shade of grey but the real parts are deeper black than this.

 

Now I have these I could potentially get everything sorted in about two hours. The installation time is pretty quick and I think that may be partly because the cast manifold makes for quite easy access compared to a space eating tubular manifold.

 

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I also finished fitting the Bosch 044 pump.

 

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I removed the Bosch one way valve which is designed to be used with a banjo and replaced it with a speedflowstore.com valve. The part number is 612-06 for the dash 6 version and it is available here:

 

http://www.speedflowstore.com/products.asp?CatID=CARBY%20-and-%20FUEL%20SYS

 

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The plan was to use this valve with an angled AN fitting with push on hose like this blue and red Earl’s Super Stock one shown here. The part number is 704667 for a dash 6 45degree version.

 

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In order to get the pump sitting in a sensible looking position I had to remove the two screws that hold the level sender to the pump hanger. Only one is visible here but this is obvious if you get the parts in your hand. Both screws were shortened by about 3mm allowing the pump body to sit up against the hanger.

 

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My Gates submersible hose arrived in time for this so that worked out well. I removed the typical SAE30-J6 piece of hose that I used for mocking things up and replaced it with the real stuff.

 

http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=5091&location_id=541

 

This is the ONLY hose I could find that is rated for use inside fuel tanks where it is exposed to petrol vapour or liquid; over time, conventional fuel hose will degrade in this environment. I took a close look at the hose on my OEM pump (been on shelf for three years after being in tank for 10 years) and it is just as flexible and smooth as the new Gates hose...it actually seems to be identical to the Gates stuff when you cut it apart and look at it in detail. I compared this to the piece of hose that came with the Walbro 342 pump...the Walbro's hose was brittle and aged by comparison and had only been in the tank for around two years.

 

I have loads of this Gates SAE J30-R10 subversible hose left over as I bought plenty as it was a special delivery item from Belgium and took three weeks to arrive. If anyone needs some then drop me a pm.

 

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I played things "safer than safe" with the wiring....

 

The wire is PTFE (as opposed to something more normal like PVC) insulated which is fine for use in fuel. The connections for this were soldered with hook joints for additional strength and then I made a triple effort on the heatshrink. I also staggered the joints to pretty much eliminate shorting if something happened to the heatshrink.

 

I used a black, fuel friendly adhesive backed heatshrink on each joint. Next I shrunk on a piece of clear PTFE heatshrink over the black heatshrink. The PTFE stuff won't shrink until something like 300+ degrees so you need a good heat gun and have to be careful to avoid melting any non PTFE wire insulation :) Finally I slipped a long length of clear PTFE sleeve over the entire length of each cable. I have left this "unshrunk".

 

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The pump was resting on the bottom part of the hanger (where the stock pump's rubber mount is) but this made the whole thing too long. I ended up chopping the hanger a little shorter but unfortunately I didn't get any pics at the time.

 

I will be removing the pump in approximately two weeks so I will get a few shots then. The upshot of this is that the two large jubilee clips are 100% responsible for holding the pump in place. From memory you'd need clips that will finish at something like 62mm internal diameter for this type of setup.

 

So this is how it looked before it went in the tank (but the lower tand of the hanger was removed as mentioned earlier and the pump sits about 8mm higher).

 

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Edited by dandan (see edit history)
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Cracking work as usual Dan, great attention to detail :thumbs:

 

Cheers Wes,

 

That's it now for two weeks as I away for a little while. As soon as I get back I'll crack straight on with it again as I'm really close to being back on the road now. I should be able to get all the turbo side fitted easily in one evening and then I'm ready for the Solaris and the mapping.

 

I'll probably crack on with the water injection install and finishing off all my heatshielding too in the time until Ryan comes over to install the ECU...hopefully that won't be too far away as I'm itching to get it on the rollers and back on the road :D

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  • 3 weeks later...
Great attention to detail on everything Dan, well done and look forward to seeing how this performs.

 

Cheers Jamie - performance should be interesting as I don't think anyone else has an identical spec to compare to.

 

good stuff Dan, just did a search on http://www.zircotec.com/page/motorsport/13

looks very interesting, if you could pm me a rough price on the manifold when you get back i would appreciate it :D

 

Done. :thumbs:

 

I love the fuel pump setup, that's NASA spec :)

 

My fuel pump wiring was done using a terminal block tietagged to the pump cage. It's been in there about 7 years now and I haven't exploded yet.

 

-Ian

 

NASA spec! LOL :D This was one area I definitely wanted to be 100% confident in. Now I don't ever have to wonder how things look in there in terms of cable ties, heatshrink, chocolate blocks etc. Fit and forget. :)

 

This has been one of the best threads I've read in ages. The attention to detail you've given every step of the project is inspiring.

 

Thanks Mark, always nice to get some positive feedback. Sorry to hear about your's mate - terrible news. Hopefully this thread will help give people some ideas and also an appreciation that paying attention to details is just a question of time and patience really.

 

Loving the attention to detail Dan. You should do this for a living, you do it better than some "professionals" I know :)

 

Thanks a lot Mig, appreciate it mate. :thumbs: Like I said, for me it is just time and patience. I don't think anything has been "above normal" in terms of attention to detail - anything like this I do is always to this sort of standard as it seems normal; anything less would feel like a bit of a bodge :)

 

 

I've been away for a couple of weeks but I'll get a few progress photos up for you picture hungry fellas :)

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As I mentioned earlier, all the exhaust side parts were ceramic coated to help cut down heat rejection to the engine bay and other components.

 

I still needed some sort of heat shielding for the clutch master cylinder so I knocked this up...

 

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It's a close fit to the master cylinder, brake servo, inner wing and bulkhead to maximize room around the downpipe. It took a bit of sorting but turned out pretty good.

 

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I also wrapped the solid and flexible water pipe with some reflective asbestos style matting and then added further reflective wrap to the flexible hose at the back of the engine bay.

 

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Then to be 100% sure I'd done all I could I added a small additional heat shield to further protect the flexible water hose. I’m a big fan of minimizing the load on the cooling system so given that the turbo is water cooled I’ve done whatever I can elsewhere to help out.

 

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This is how it looks now with only a few jobs to finish before Ryan comes to put a "shakedown map" in the ecu for me on Monday:

 

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Edited by dandan (see edit history)
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