dandan Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 Fuel bill must be a little large? It could be horrendous if you drove with a heavy right foot. I've only put about 500miles on it since the mapping and obviously that contains a lot of experimental enthusiastic driving with no concerns at all about fuel consumption.....that said, on the last tankful it did about 240miles which worked out at something like 19-20mpg. Not that bad really. Something worth bearing in mind is that all this is with the 0.81 A/R exhaust housing - I think that a 0.68 could make the car too torquey and I'm sure the tyre grip would be rapidly exceeded in the lower rpm's. Right now, on the 0.81 housing, it'll churn out 350ft.lb at 4000rpm and 500ft.lb at 4500rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkR Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 It could be horrendous if you drove with a heavy right foot. I've only put about 500miles on it since the mapping and obviously that contains a lot of experimental enthusiastic driving with no concerns at all about fuel consumption.....that said, on the last tankful it did about 240miles which worked out at something like 19-20mpg. Not that bad really. Something worth bearing in mind is that all this is with the 0.81 A/R exhaust housing - I think that a 0.68 could make the car too torquey and I'm sure the tyre grip would be rapidly exceeded in the lower rpm's. Right now, on the 0.81 housing, it'll churn out 350ft.lb at 4000rpm and 500ft.lb at 4500rpm. That's actually pretty good. When I was on TT I was getting 180 miles on a tank of spirited driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 That's actually pretty good. When I was on TT I was getting 180 miles on a tank of spirited driving. It doesn't seem too excessive right now so I'm not too concerned about it. A little less response would actually be nice sometimes on the motorway as an 80lepton cruising speed puts you right into positive boost as soon as you touch the pedal to accelerate even just a tiny bit. However - I am being very picky now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 The next performance related change I want to do is to free up the exhaust breathing a little and give the potential for a little noise My downpipe and midpipe are 4" but the exhaust is only 3" and actually closer to 2 7/8" in places. Although I'm not yearning for more power on the road, I do want to see what the whole setup is capable of and ideally drop the boost a little to achieve the same power. So the plan is to fit my electric cutout and basically have the best of both worlds with a 4" (single silenced) routing or the quiet 3" system. The exhaust I currently have fitted is shown here on the left (although it's much cleaner looking now): I will be removing my 4" V band to 3" adaptor, the 2 bolt flange, the first resonator/silencer and a short section of piping (all shown in red) and fitting a large 4" silencer instead. Then the pipework will follow the same 45 degree bend route and neck back down to 3" and into the second silencer. However I will then fit the electric cutout (in the position shown in the exhaust pic by the yellow lines) firing straight out for the least restrictive path. That'll give me the option of quiet runnng and morning starts or loud and unrestricted for spirited motoring when I want a better soundtrack Here's a few close up pics for the photo whores out there (the circular flanges need a little more machining before they'll be ready to fit): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkR Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Nice. I was planning on doing the same thing when mine was running. There is also a company that makes an exhaust that either routes the air through a silenced rear can, or straight through the middle. Can't remember the name offhand but it seemed like a good idea at the time. One exhaust can - two routes... (not to be confused with 2 girls one cup) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Dan Is the exhaust valve a total closure one like the QTP ones, i realise this is not the 3" one you got off me but it does look similar, i would be very carefull with an exhaust cut out type as i really dont think it would do the engine much good having the exhaust blocked 100%, on the 3" one you got from me i copied the Apexi valve and had the body machined out to leave (from memory) a 2mm gap between the butterfly and the body so the exhaust was always partially open, in hindsight i think i would have done some maths and drilled an appropriate sized hole in the butterfly, sorry if you already know all this. I used the 76mm Apexi on the 4" BL exhaust, it did take the "crack" off the exhaust but alas it still didn't agree with me (or my neighbours) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 That looks like a very nice idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 You got the wrong end of the stick there Paul - I'm fitting the valve as a cutout so it sits in parallel with the rest of the 3" exhaust. With the valve shut, all flow goes through the 3" exhaust. With it open, it dumps straight out after the 1st silencer. Something similar to this half finished setup..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 You got the wrong end of the stick there Paul - I'm fitting the valve as a cutout so it sits in parallel with the rest of the 3" exhaust. With the valve shut, all flow goes through the 3" exhaust. With it open, it dumps straight out after the 1st silencer. Something similar to this half finished setup..... http://i828.photobucket.com/albums/zz202/danc8000/Exhaust/dmh3.jpg Yep totally, that looks very good and a proper exhaust cutout, sweet tap dancing jesus that will be loud mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Whats better the noise of an fully blown engine Fancy doing me 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkR Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 You got the wrong end of the stick there Paul - I'm fitting the valve as a cutout so it sits in parallel with the rest of the 3" exhaust. With the valve shut, all flow goes through the 3" exhaust. With it open, it dumps straight out after the 1st silencer. Something similar to this half finished setup..... http://i828.photobucket.com/albums/zz202/danc8000/Exhaust/dmh3.jpg Cool, you could do a side exit for the straight through section and blow up girls skirts -> Marilyn-Monroe-tastic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted February 4, 2010 Author Share Posted February 4, 2010 Yep totally, that looks very good and a proper exhaust cutout, sweet tap dancing jesus that will be loud mate I'm sure it will be very loud but at least it will have passed through the new full size silencer before it gets dumped so perhaps that'll take the edge off a little I do still have the QTP valve from you (above) and I understand what you were getting at regarding the machining etc so that it could be fitted in series with the rest of the exhaust. I was planning to fit it in the 3" portion of the exhaust but it is so quiet anyway there's no real need. I also toyed with fitting it and linking into the the ecu as a low rpm torque aid (Yamaha EXUP style) but the whole setup makes plenty of low speed torque so there's not much point with that idea either! Whats better the noise of an fully blown engine Fancy doing me 1 God knows how loud it's going to be but it'll certainly be one hell of a contrast to the current setup. Another suck it and see modification in terms of noise level! It's not really that difficult to do, mine is only complicated by the addition of the 4" silencer to make it 4" all the way to the valve. Cool, you could do a side exit for the straight through section and blow up girls skirts -> Marilyn-Monroe-tastic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 my exhaust has a system like that- loud is good then when you see te police flick it over to quiet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 my exhaust has a system like that- loud is good then when you see te police flick it over to quiet That's the general idea - except it'll be quiet most of the time and then loud when I want it unrestricted and free flowing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 That's the general idea - except it'll be quiet most of the time and then loud when I want it unrestricted and free flowing. I wonder if it could be mapped so its automatic, ie when boost, throttle and air temp reach a set level, for example you could use the water injection output of a Solaris/Syvecs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted February 21, 2010 Author Share Posted February 21, 2010 I wonder if it could be mapped so its automatic, ie when boost, throttle and air temp reach a set level, for example you could use the water injection output of a Solaris/Syvecs I did wonder about that but I don't think it is quite fast enough to be automatic - it probably takes about 1 second to open fully. I'm sure it could be done with a faster acting valve....maybe it would be like VTEC or VVTi control? When I say I wondered about it - I actually mean that I thought about using the other valve (the QTP version) placing it somewhere that is always in the exhaust path. If that were linked to the ECU it could potentially be controlled like an EXUP valve. However, I don't really want any more bottom end grunt or response at the moment so it seems like more complication for little gain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted February 21, 2010 Author Share Posted February 21, 2010 (edited) I made a start on my suspension arm replacement yesterday afternoon. A good friend of mine was kind enough to offer me the use of his ramp and helped me out with it all as well - what a difference to trying to do this on axle stands! Thanks Andy Yesterday's plan only involved replacing the lower arms (which are the ones that have the adjustment built in). I decided to get a few coats of paint on them to keep the crusty rust a way a little longer than the Toyota paint does.... Edited February 21, 2010 by dandan (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted February 21, 2010 Author Share Posted February 21, 2010 (edited) We tackled the front lower arms first and these were suprisingly easy to get off. The mounting bolts/adjusters looked almost new with no sign of water ingress and no problems seizing at all. The hardest part was removing the ARB drop links and that wasn't even especially difficult. I think these arms must be relatively new, I'll do a test on the balljoints to see if they are still in spec - maybe that will shed some light on things. I've had the car for approx seven years and have certainly never replaced them in that time. I was expecting HELL doing this but they were the easiest of any of the arms. One of the old adjusters exactly as it came out (the other three were in identical condition): The new adjusters ready to fit: Front NS arm fitted: Edited February 21, 2010 by dandan (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted February 21, 2010 Author Share Posted February 21, 2010 (edited) I don't have any pics of the rear arms fitted - the day started to drag on a little and the photo taking fell by the way side. I have some "partially painted" photos for comparison and that's about it The paint looks a little ropey on the rear toe link......and it is. I used an etch primer and was then foolish enough to try to spray over that with a Hammerite paint - oh dear. I told myself that hammerite = bad news but I carried on anyway. I will paint these ones up properly when the car is back on the ramp to do the top arms and I won't be buying hammerite again. Edited February 21, 2010 by dandan (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted February 21, 2010 Author Share Posted February 21, 2010 (edited) I also replaced all the anti roll bar drop links as I'd heard that these wear and can cause a few interesting noises and irritations. No pics of those during fitting I'm afraid. New fronts: New rears: Obviously after doing this I have all the part numbers of all this items and a sound appreciation of "what goes where" It isn't overly clear which numbers are which when you come to buy all these even with the EPC to help you out - not least because a lot of parts have been superceded and the new numbers do not appear anywhere. I will post something up in Supra Chat or Technical with a list of all the numbers and some photos of the adjusters to hopefully help people out. The camber bolts/adjusters are probably the most confusing part and I have those photographed and labelled already If anyone wants any advice on parts/numbers in the meantime then just pm me. I used "non facelift" bottom arms even though my car is a facelift. The bushes in the older arms are much stiffer and also have a steel piece on the rearmost bush which seems to provide a more rigid attachment and effectively stiffen the bush as the steel covers the whole rear face of the bush. Hopefully these stiffer bushes will give more consistent geo settings under hard cornering compared to the later (allegedly Soarer inspired) softer facelift bushes. See pic below: The front top arms follow a similar story....earlier pre facelift cars have stiffer bushes. Suffice to say mine are being replaced with the older style. So that's about it for now. I am waiting on a few more bits and pieces now and then I'll press on with the front and rear top arms and the rear strut rods. The top rear arms look a little more tricky (and the mounting hardware seems a little more complicated too) so I will definitely get some photos of all that. I'm going to get a geo setup done in the meantime as the tracking does seem a tiny bit off even though we were meticulous about refitting the cam bolts/adjusters in the same place as the old ones.....I was expecting to have to do it anyway so no big deal. So the plan ahead for the suspension is: 1. Geo setup 2. Replace front and rear top arms, rear strut rods, rear strut rod hub bushes and anti roll bar mounting rubbers 3. Fit customized CW suspension 4. Head up to Chris for a full corner weight and geo setup Edited February 21, 2010 by dandan (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted February 28, 2010 Author Share Posted February 28, 2010 I got my exhaust flanges back last night so now I have everythng I need to do the fabrication work for the cutout - just a case of finding the time now.... As they were before they were too thick and way too heavy. They're a much more sensible shape now and approximately half the weight. One end is counterbored to sit the pipe in for welding and the other has a chamfer to help clear the butterfly as it opens and keep the flow smooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted February 28, 2010 Author Share Posted February 28, 2010 Plus I finally sorted out my dash switches as well. Fog light switch and LED on the left, water injection arming and LED on the right. The plan is to fit the switch for the exhaust cutout in the middle. The large one here is the seven position boost (plus valet etc) selector switch and the smaller one is the eight way traction switch -this one is not wired up to the Solaris yet though. The LED in this pic is for the Aquamist 2S water injection fault diagnosis circuit. It lights up when you arm the system and then stays off unless there's a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkR Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 Nice work. That all looks very tasty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j80leo Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 Great thread Dan this will help the sale of your car when you come to sell it;) ( First dibbs ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted March 2, 2010 Author Share Posted March 2, 2010 Nice work. That all looks very tasty Slow but steady Mark - I'll be really happy with it once I have my few jobs done like the new intercooler, exhaust mods, remap and CW suspension. Great thread Dan this will help the sale of your car when you come to sell it;) ( First dibbs ) Cheers matey. I can't imagine selling it now after all this effort but things do change I suppose. Right now I just want the summer to get here so I can enjoy all the hard work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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