Chris Wilson Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 If this is going to race in a UK series under RAC MSA organisation be aware the cage will need to be approved with an MSA or FIA number. If it's a serious race car doing more than one consecutive lap the J-Spec brakes won't hack it. They can be made to survive track days with the right pads and fluid, but proper racing, even in a lighweight car...... nah! I could probably be persuaded to mod a TRD LSD assembly to give race type pre-load, that's what you really need. Or Giken *MAY* list one of their adjustable units for the JZA80, not sure. I have often thought that a Skyline GTR V-Spec hydraulically adjustable rear diff would be interesting, with your mapping and wiring skills it would be quite novel to have an ECU controlled active rear diff, measuring steering angle and lateral G-forces, and brake inputs. Could get very complex, but active diffs were deemed a brilliant device in F1, capable of curing various handling compromises a mechanical unit imposed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 This would be very interesting to see actually, however what weight would this add to the car itself? Probably about 10 kilos or so max Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted December 5, 2008 Author Share Posted December 5, 2008 If this is going to race in a UK series under RAC MSA organisation be aware the cage will need to be approved with an MSA or FIA number. If it's a serious race car doing more than one consecutive lap the J-Spec brakes won't hack it. They can be made to survive track days with the right pads and fluid, but proper racing, even in a lighweight car...... nah! I could probably be persuaded to mod a TRD LSD assembly to give race type pre-load, that's what you really need. Or Giken *MAY* list one of their adjustable units for the JZA80, not sure. I have often thought that a Skyline GTR V-Spec hydraulically adjustable rear diff would be interesting, with your mapping and wiring skills it would be quite novel to have an ECU controlled active rear diff, measuring steering angle and lateral G-forces, and brake inputs. Could get very complex, but active diffs were deemed a brilliant device in F1, capable of curing various handling compromises a mechanical unit imposed. Sounds interesting. Will look into the plans on the diff and pinouts to see what is fully needed and if it could be made to work with the Solaris Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted December 6, 2008 Author Share Posted December 6, 2008 Update! Right! the car got moved over to Autotec on Thursday and after finishing my mapping jobs I decided to start taking the engine out with Steve. Must say first of all how grateful I am for him helping me and providing a lift I could use to make removing the engine a lot easier. Spent about 2 hours removing all the parts I needed to remove and left it at that until Saturday.. Saturday came around and Steve, Tony and I cracked on with getting the gearbox and engine out…. 3 hours later Damn the 2jzgte is flipping heavy as stock! So the engine was out and as I had the author of the legendary Stock twin removal guide I knew it wasn’t going to take long. 50 Mins later they were off! As I had been driving the car around for a while I felt that there was an issue with the first turbo and bet again that the turbo was fooked. At first it looked like I was wrong until Tony noticed this…. The final job of the day was to get the leak down tester out again and have a proper listen where the leak was. As we first thought the head has a sticky valve and also one of the valves is not sealing 100% as we got about 20% out of the exhaust. Next job is to remove the head and get Swindow race engines to port match both the new exhaust manifold and the intake manifold as well as work there magic on the Head. At present I cant decide if I want to use a pair of cams as have a GT3582R turbo and think I might want abit more grunt after 5k but need to look at the compressor map abit more in detail. Now the engine is out though the fun can begin with the weight removal. Also we are looking at moving the engine back about a 6-10 inches as there is loads of room now the dash is removed. P.s weighed the Stock twins and all the grubbings that went with them at 44kg, stock flywheel was also 14kg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted December 6, 2008 Author Share Posted December 6, 2008 Going to be a great thread Makes me wish I had built the car not only with a garage but with the mapper included from the start to ensure the specs of all the parts are going to give the best results, I must have purchased several items twice with different specs trying to get the best combinations but mapping experience will always know the cars that delivered the best results with the best combination of parts Going to be a great car Ryan I am sure ! Thanks Dean Ideally i was wanting to go for T67DBB with stock cams as i really think this is the perfect setup and Jamie has proven this at suprapod, llandrow and in a few other races But i have not done a GT35R on stock cams in a manual yet and im really interested to see it would do at say 1.5bar. I would only expect around 500bhp but i expect with the stock cam profile setup it would make an awesome torque curve which in a light car would be If this doesn't provide what i am after i will get a T67dbb Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted December 6, 2008 Author Share Posted December 6, 2008 (edited) You don't hang around Love the idea with moving the engine back, that'll make a huge difference to the weight distribution Wouldn't you have to move the seat, wheel and pedals back too (always good for weight distribution), or is there something trick you can do with the shifter? Great thread Ryan and hope the pics and updates continue Yeah, the Missus is not happy about the late nights but having a few friends who work in the industry, and good with tools helps get things done properly and quickly Yes the driving aids will need to move back as well which i want anyway for the weight bias. The raised part of the floor behind the seat will be coming out anyway as most of the floor so will be able to mount the seat back further espically the passenger one. Will also be going for a Auto LSD diff for the better suited track ratio's. Would love to do the skyline diff but it wont take the torque im sure and they are not easy to get hold either if i break a few Ryan Edited December 7, 2008 by Ryan.G (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 Yh the Missus is not happy about the late nights but having a few friends who work in the industry, and good with tools helps get things done properly and quickly With yourself, a good mechanic and an F1 engineer you're in good stead Yes the driving aids will need to move back as well which i want anyway for the weight bias. The raised part of the floor behind the seat will be coming out anyway as most of the floor so will be able to mount the seat back further espically the passenger one. Good stuff If you're plating out the interior you'll be able to get the seat mounted lower too, every little helps. Will also be going for a Auto LSD diff for the better suited track ratio's. Would love to do the skyline diff but it wont take the torque im sure and they are not easy to get hold either if i break a few I'm sure you know about the driveshaft (and prop) differences with the auto diff, but I believe there is an issue with the strength of the crownwheel on at least some of the auto LSDs, the 'large' one is needed to take the torque of a single. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted December 6, 2008 Author Share Posted December 6, 2008 (edited) I'm sure you know about the driveshaft (and prop) differences with the auto diff, but I believe there is an issue with the strength of the crownwheel on at least some of the auto LSDs, the 'large' one is needed to take the torque of a single. Yeah, i have the large auto box and the prop etc is sorted Ryan Edited December 7, 2008 by Ryan.G (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suprafan72 Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 Excellent Thread... MY rx7 weighs a damn site less than my old t51r Supra did... Im running 1.1 bar on my rx7 with the same turbo as my old supra... It's just as quick (If not quicker) Than when i was running 1.4 to 1.5 bar on the supra.. Loving the car though.. 500hp at 1200kg will be awesome.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 Did some more work on the engine tonight. Got the head off and Stripped ready to go to Swindon Race Engines to have it Port matched on the Inlet and exhaust as well as x-ray the head to find what can be improved and for crack testing. Also took all the engine and cockpit looms out of the car and will be stripping them back to only stuff needed this weekend as well as wiring in the Solaris S6 and the Dash2 Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted December 14, 2008 Author Share Posted December 14, 2008 Today I sorted all the wiring for inside the Cabin Area. I was going to make a complete custom loom for the car but thought taking to pieces the old loom would give me an insight into the stock wiring, so that in the future when i have to fix problems on other cars i have a better understanding of where stuff goes. It was a wise move As you can see below there is alot of wiring as stock. Now a couple of hours later i had sorted the Interior loom by stripping wires out and un-pinning then from the connectors When im 100% that all the wires are good in the below loom i will wrap it up so it looks nice and Tidy This is all the wiring that is not needed when you have a Dash2 and no heater system After finishing the inside, i cracked on with the Engine loom. Most of the loom i am going to keep as it is as there is only about 6 wires which im not going to use in the engine bay as the rest i have used for other sensors like EGT, Oil Pr, Oil Tmp etc. Once i had sorted that i wired in the Solaris connector and all the flying looms for Cal switches, Traction Pots, ABS wiring, Lambda and CAN etc. Will be back on the car on Thursday as im up north the rest of the week. Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted December 14, 2008 Author Share Posted December 14, 2008 Just weighed all the old connectors and wiring etc from everything i have removed and it came in at 7.4kg. Happy with that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted December 14, 2008 Author Share Posted December 14, 2008 .Chris, Found a Pedal box with a 7:1 ratio. What you think? http://www2.obp.uk.net/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32_52_88_93_94&products_id=231&osCsid=c2f14bfa45534350fd7ab31ed3b65896 Looked into the Tilton stuff but can only find 6:1 What Ratio do you think is needed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 7 to 1 but I'd want to see one in the flesh first though, sounds a bit cheap. 6 to 1 will work though, albeit with a heavier, but shorter travel pedal. A lot depends on what discs and calipers are going on it, have you decided? Nice work with the loom, I just hate wiring.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 Cracking work on the wiring loom matey, 7.4kg makes it worth while Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted December 15, 2008 Author Share Posted December 15, 2008 7 to 1 but I'd want to see one in the flesh first though, sounds a bit cheap. 6 to 1 will work though, albeit with a heavier, but shorter travel pedal. A lot depends on what discs and calipers are going on it, have you decided? Nice work with the loom, I just hate wiring.... Will try and get some more pics and info, maybe get one with a return policy if not happy.. Thinking of going with just a uk setup with your pads ? Im not a fan of these massive kits as it means bigger wheels which i dont want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamc Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 Will try and get some more pics and info, maybe get one with a return policy if not happy.. Thinking of going with just a uk setup with your pads ? Im not a fan of these massive kits as it means bigger wheels which i dont want. What are your thoughts on these? AP Pro 5000+ http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=A/PCP5000-177CG4 4 pot fronts, smaller than the big brake kits, and should fit with standard wheel sizes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 Uk calipers are good but weigh a ton, as you know unsprung weight is a nice place to lose weight, id look into an alternative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 My Supras running Brembo F50 front brakes, and by the looks of it they should fit under the stock UK wheels I have spare. I can give this a test fit this weekend if you like? Apparently they also offer quite a weight saving over stock UK calipers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted December 15, 2008 Author Share Posted December 15, 2008 Will Speak to Gledo and Chris about the brakes and go with what they recommend but will also look into other calipers and weights etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Whiffin Posted December 16, 2008 Share Posted December 16, 2008 What are your thoughts on these? AP Pro 5000+ http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=A/PCP5000-177CG4 4 pot fronts, smaller than the big brake kits, and should fit with standard wheel sizes! Thats what we use on our RX7, absolutely spot on braking when combined with a pedal box, cant fault them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted December 16, 2008 Share Posted December 16, 2008 AP and Alcon do some nice light weight calipers, you need to match up the disc sizes and get a caliper mount made. The AP touring brakes are very nice but a little pricey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan.G Posted December 19, 2008 Author Share Posted December 19, 2008 Small Update Yesterday Tony and I removed all the brake system including all the pedals. Some of the stuff removed below, couldn't believe how much the servo and the ABS unit weighed. Another 18kg lost Pedals and other bits were only 5kg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Whiffin Posted December 19, 2008 Share Posted December 19, 2008 (edited) Small Update Yesterday Tony and I removed all the brake system including all the pedals. Some of the stuff removed below, couldn't believe how much the servo and the ABS unit weighed. Another 18kg lost Pedals and other bits were only 5kg http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a346/Fletchy/Wiring010.jpg Its amazing how much all this stuff weighs isn't it, have you decided what your doing with the pedal box yet? Floor mount or hanging? Edited December 19, 2008 by Paul Whiffin (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted December 19, 2008 Share Posted December 19, 2008 Nice work Ryan Never ceases to amaze me how much weight is in some of these parts. How come it's got an auto kickdown switch? Was the car originally an auto? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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