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My VVTI GT35R Single Conversion


MarkR
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Sorry to hear you had a few problems Mark. Atleast you should have ironed out all the gremlins before you take it home. The car looks real nice.

 

Thanks Kev. With the year I've had, it was destined to give me trouble :) I've lost a baby, broken 4 bones, had 5 stitches, had cholera! , lost my luggage twice and now have plantar fasciitis. Charming :D You gotta laugh!

 

Be worth it in the end mate :thumbs:

 

Thanks Ryan, and thanks again for your patience. You the daddy :)

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Hopefully not on your right foot, how bad is the pain when your driving?

 

Nah, it's my clutch foot. Amazingly, the pain started when I went from tiptronic to manual ;)

 

It's pretty sore to drive to be honest but I'm going for cortico steroid injections in my heel on Monday so hopefully that'll sort me out. I have a snowboarding holiday in January that I need to be better for!

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Not sure yet Dan. I'm getting a little frustrated to be honest. I called Wayne yesterday and he's still investigating the alternator issue. The only things they touched that were directly power related were the alternator pulley and the battery (as he wired a few bits in and neatened up the fuse area).

 

Anyone have a spare alternator for a VVTI? Are they the same on VVTI as normal jap spec?

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Well, Wayne has found the issue with the alternator. The harness Jody gave me to try fix the speedo issue was incorrectly wired and the yellow wire that was supposed to go to the charge light was going to the speedo. He still has to figure out how to get the speedo to work but at least we now have power.

 

He received the Brembo calipers for the rear today to match the fronts, so he'll be starting the work on getting them installed as well as the Braided brake lines. Still need to pick up the DBA disks for the rear.

 

He also received the inlet air temp sensor so that'll be getting done pretty sharpish.

 

The list of remaining things to do before mapping is as follows:

 

Fit air temp sensor.

Fix bonnet/oil catch tank to be able to shut the bonnet properly.

Mount new AEM AFR gauge.

Install carbon Fibre bumper protector (above exhaust).

Install Rear Brembo brakes and new DBA disks.

Install BF Goodrich braided brake lines.

Re-connect the alarm and mount in wing out of the way as it was where the catch tank was.

Fabricate some shields for inside wheel arches as the standard ones have gone walkies.

Fit switches for WI on/off, and any other switches for future use (Trac, different maps etc)

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The list of remaining things to do before mapping is as follows:

 

Fit air temp sensor.

Fix bonnet/oil catch tank to be able to shut the bonnet properly. DONE

Mount new AEM AFR gauge.

Install carbon Fibre bumper protector (above exhaust).

Install Rear Brembo brakes and new DBA disks.

Install BF Goodrich braided brake lines.

Re-connect the alarm and mount in wing out of the way as it was where the catch tank was.

Fabricate some shields for inside wheel arches as the standard ones have gone walkies.

Fit switches for WI on/off, and any other switches for future use (Trac, different maps etc)

Edited by MarkR (see edit history)
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Nice :thumbs: I knew I'd seen them somewhere before but couldn't remember where, and wasn't sure if they were the same. I hope you don't mind me using the same ones? I'll also go blue as my dash is mixed white and blue. My LEDs above the buttons are all blue and the buttons and gauges are white. My headunit is blue and white too. Should look great.

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Quick question about traction control. How many settings does Ryan set up? Would I need an 8 position rotating switch or is that overkill? Also, do you use setting "0" as OFF and then have settings subsequent to that, or do you need a separate ON/OFF switch and then calibrate using the rotary?

 

Where is a good place to buy 12V switches? I'm going to go with the toggle switches as on Wez's dash above from Maplin. Who does a nice rotary switch?

 

I think I'd like 2 toggles (one for WI ON/OFF and one for 1.3bar/1.5bar), and one cal switch for TRAC.

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You can configure it however you want it.

 

I use two 8 position switches as well as 3 other on/off switches configured like this :-

 

8 pos 1 : 0-7 for traction setup

8 pos 2 : boost level, knock control, limp mode, water injection etc

sw1 : pit limit on/off

sw2 : launch on/off

sw3 : antilag on/off

 

You can do all these functions with a single 8 pos switch if you want for example :-

 

position 0 - low boost, no traction

position 1 - high boost, no traction, launch control on

position 2 - high boost, traction level 1

position 3 - high boost, traction level 2

position 4 - high boost, traction level 3

position 5 - high boost, fuel 2, ign map2, no traction

position 6 - high boost, fuel 2, ign map2, traction level 1

position 7 - low boost, no traction, limp mode, low rev limit

 

These are just examples etc

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How does it do it Jamie? I assume you have a button that you press?

 

Yup on a button, i dont bother with it tbh, (or traction control, just spoils the fun) to get a good start im reving it up to almost the rev limit and side stepping the clutch, mine bogs down with the launch control, makes some nice pops and bangs but not all that good for the turbo i fear.

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