Matt Harwood

The laser diffuser is a stand-alone unit, self activating.

I agree the older Snoopers weren't too good but the S5 is supposed to be good. - Hence, I would like someone to do a comparison...

I can do you a laser diffuser for £199, (retails at £299). Has anyone got a Bel 550 that fancies doing a comparison against a Snooper S5? - (I'll loan someone an S5 for comparison)

Thanks Mark, you even anticipated my next question, "How do I use it". Thanks again:thumbs:

My Japanese isn't too good. Has anybody installed HKS guages and willing to share the wiring colour information? I have a boost guage with 8 bloody wires, I know which is earth, (wahoo!) and two of the blues are joined, so I'm down to 6 unidentified wires. - Ignition live, constant live, illumination, earth. Which is which and what do the other 4 do? I also have an EGT guage.... I havn't even bothered to look at what wires are there yet... Help on both/either would be gratefully recieved.

Glad to hear it worked.

Go to the top of the class Darren, you were very close The Clifford battery-back-up sirens use their own internal power to give arm/disarm chirps. This is to give you an idea of when the internal batteries are running out. (they use the vehicles battery power if the alarm triggers, so you can't test it that way. - If you disconnect the cars battery with the alarm armed, it should only change tone slightly, if after a few seconds it starts getting quieter, it's definatly a siren/battery problem) Clifford don't sell the battery pack replacements, you have to get a new siren, but I would think you could probably take the siren apart and replace them yourself. They are only lithium packs like the ones cordless phones use. Some of the Concept range have different chirp settings - Loud, soft, silent. If you've inadvertantly selected soft chirps, you'd know about it as they change pich quite a lot at the same time.

Have you got any contact details for this Supraman? - I want a good mph speedo face.

I'm sure all mk4's have speed sensitive steering. Mine is noticably heavy at higher speeds. (over 60 ish)

Go on, you know you want to... Give him a call... BTW, it still feels that controlled at 170!!! (speedo reeding) - Trust me, I know:D

If you're happy with the way your's works and the steering, spoiler and cruise (or whatever you have) all work ok, then, yes, I guess so.

The DSC is Pete's version. This does both MPH conversion with ajustability and removes the speed limiter rather than moving it to 180mph like most if the cheap ones do... Mine included:(

Unless your radio wiring has been hacked about a lot, there is only one plug connecting the rear speakers. So I would expect both to have failed if it was unplugged. Pleased to hear you have your car back now. I expect you have the Supra:D back!

On a J-spec car the TC only shuts the butterfly. You don't "need" to remove it but I have. Mainly so that I didn't need to remember to switch it off and I didn't want to just pull the fuse. The UK spec also applies braking to the rear wheels (handbrake turn anyone! ) And that's one less restriction in the intake side... If you get an American butterfly removal kit it might add 50 bhp!!! Edited after reading your post again... I don't know for sure but I believe the fuse also controls something to do with an auto gearbox. I think it gives smoother changes or something... And yes you do loose the 155 limiter on a UK car but not the J-spec. Wait around a bit and I'm sure someone can confirm/explane this better or just tell me I'm wrong

?? ??

Pete Betts - For both... http://www.trlperformance.com/ You could do a lot worse and from what I've heard you can't get a lot better:thumbs:

You need to find the Clifford ecu. For security purposes, I'll send you a PM on places to start looking.

Hi Andy, This sounds like it should be simple enough. All the symptoms pointing to the aerial. Do you know where the alarms ecu is mounted? The Clifford G4 systems use a pre-amped aerial. this MUST be plugged into the ecu or no remote signals can be recieved. The early aerial units plugged into the ecu and had a small black plastic control unit about 6" further down the harness. the aerial itself is just a single cable that "should" be mounted to the top of the front screen in a plastic cover about 6" long. The later aerials just have a 3 core loom that runs directly to a little black box with G4 stamped on it and a 6" rod type aerial coming from the other end. This "should" be mounted with the aerial facing down the front screen. Which ever you have, you'll find a small plug at the ecu. Remove this plug and leave it out for a couple of minutes. When you put the plug back in MAKE SURE IT GOES IN SQUARE otherwise you'll bend the tiny pins inside the ecu. It's a bugger of a plug. The early aerials are not the most reliable of things, although we usually found this out during installation. If they work to begin with, they usually work ok. The later ones have a better range and I've not had a faulty one yet:) If you still have any problems, you can call me on 01622 683044 or, if you are local'ish, I'm in Maidstone if you want to bring it over. I'll post this on the BBS in case anyone else ever has this problem. Good luck Matt

It's only a problem if you get them reversed on the same wheels. If you've had them swapped to the other side of the car, they'll still be rotating in the right direction - No problem:)

Did I miss something :zzz:

Not a Newbie any more!

I've taken off my HKS SPF and replaced the standard box with a TRD panel filter. I'm probably wrong but the power delivery seems smoother and there seems to be a bit more response at the bottom end.

Aahhhh ! - Scotch locks!?!?!?!? - I hope you didn't put that sub in with scotch locks! Twist'n'tape is more reliable! - Try using that new fangled invention, the soldering iron. Sure it takes a bit longer, but it lasts longer too. Come on Dean, pull ya socks up

I'm getting Chris to put both of my cats down sometime this month I hope... RIP powersapping moggies:D

Phew, glad I havn't got all that extra weight on my car:baa: