Matt Harwood

Just in case anyone else needs to know how to remove a mk4 rear bumper... You'll need a phillips screwdriver and a 10mm socket, ratchet and short extension bar. Remove the taillights (2 screws on each) and CAREFULLY withdraw them, (They're on round locators that pop off and if you're not careful, pop off and chip the paint on the rear quarter... As I did:( ) Remove the numberplate and the 3 screws holding the numberplate lights Remove all the screw/expansion clips, (rawl plug type things), on the top. (3 under each taillight and 3 at the top between the lights. Remove the 10mm bolts, (1 each side), in the top corners on the inside edge of the rear quarter and the same at the lower edge of the bumper. Remove all 4 expansion screws from the retaining strip at the bottom underside and remove the bar with poppers attached. Remove the expansion clip just above the exhaust pipe. Remove both plastic trim panels from either side of the boot section to gain access to the inner edges of the rear quaters and remove the 10mm bolts, (2 each side), that hold the bumper to the rear quater. The bumper will now go all floppy and as you remove the outer skin, the inner Polystyrene section will fall off too. That's it! - Took me about an hour to figure out where all the damn clips and bolts were! - All for the sake of a reverse sensor:rolleyes:

:baa: :baa: :baa:

Thanks for the helpful suggestiond guys but thankfully, it was just a dodgy fuseholder feeding the RLTC! Huge sigh of relief!

Can anyone give me ideas on things to check. My engine has started to cut out intermittantly. So far it has cut out twice at WOT at about 5000rpm. It left me with no throttle response but the rev counter was still working, I selected neutral whilst rolling and it dropped to idle, select drive, and away it goes, no problem. Once, just approaching a junction as I stopped, so did the engine. I just restarted it and drove away. Lastly, as I was reversing very slowly, (aproaching a wall), the car stalled and would not re-start. It just turned over but wouldn't fire up. After about a minute, (which seemed like an eternity), It fired up and carried on wothout a problem. At no time have I had the red triangle warning sign displayed. My first thoughts are to check the supply wires on the RLTC as I know it won't allow the injectors to work without power. Any other suggestions?

I've heard it called "Panel wipe", "Spirit wipe" and "pre-paint cleaner"... I think they'll know what your after. You'll still need to flat the surface down especially id you have small scratches you want to get rid of. Use 800 grit wet and dry with loads of water for the deeper scrathes and finnish off with 1200 before painting. If you are going to change the colour to silver, get some white high build primer. When the primers dryed off, flat that down with 1200 again but be careful not to go through the primer on the edges Once that's done, give it a couple of even coats of silver, allow tom dry then another couple of coats of clear laquer. (allow to dry in-between coats). Lastly, flat it off again with 1200 or higher and give it a good polish with a light cutting comound, (T-cut, Neilsons blue or similar). If all goes well, you should have dash panels with the same finnish as your bodywork! Good luck!

Mark, any paint will be alright but you'll need to get some good pre-paint cleaner. You can get it from any paint supplier. The problem is that you have loads of polish on the plastic that makes the paint react. (Dont bother trying to sand off the polish bacause you won't be able to) HTH

I've heard of some strange hobbies before...

No problem there then

Not that I've ever seen John. But if you can get an old Clifford Smart windows 1 or 2, you could link that to your system and gain one touch up/down on both windows as well as window closure.

Does anyone know where the main control unit is for the standard UK spec alarm system? In the interests of security, please mail me direct rather than reply on here.... Not that I don't trust anybody on here, but anyone can read it. Thanks in advance.

Does anyone know how to remove the rear view mirror from the front screen? Looks like there's a hole to release a clip or something but I don't want to force it without knowing for certain... All this to clean the windscreen easier:rolleyes:

I think most of these delimiters are actually a con. I think all they do is move the limit from 180 kmph to 180 mph and as most people would never get to that kind of speed they get away with calling it a delimiter. I assume that the HKS speed limit defencers actually do remove it but I don't know for certain. They might just slow the pulses to raise it to something totally unaccassible in terms of speed but give the correct signals to the parts that operate with speed. I'm sure Pete knows more about this though.

The colour coding is the same as the one on my wifes FTO. From what I can gather from the grey wire is a "through" wire that you can connect to the ecu so it operates normally. Could be wrong... In fact, I probably am wrong, but that's what I was told. Incidentally, the speed limiter is still active on her FTO.

This could also be used as an anti-carjacking door locking type thing... As per Clifford's autolock. How much Pete?

I've got a Zakspeed Capri too! Cool car... Surrounded by a mk1 Escort Mexico, a 1967 Shelby Mustang, TVR speed 12... They're just my favourites:rolleyes:

Bluewater is a huge shopping complex just off the M25 near Dartford Follow the link for more news as it breaks... http://supra.highspeedhostinggroup.net/public_html/vbb//showthread.php?s=&threadid=1511

Interesting thought. Off thread, I got one of those 1/18 models from a shop locally recently for £42.00 - Highly impressive and very detailed Takes pride of place next to my Capri RS2600:)

I noticed your in the south... There's a meeting at in the SE at Bluewater on Sunday. Come along if you don't live too far away. There will be a few cars to look and a few people to chat to there.

That's pretty much what I do. I run with the boost controller off untill I need it. If you turn it on to 18psi in mid WOT it feels like a 3rd turbo coming in:D

Ouch! Breakers for me too!... Thanks all the same.

In standard form with both cats in place but with a free-flow exhaust I was getting around .85-.90. I can have boost coming in just over 1200rpm if I floor it or 0.00 if cruising at 3000rpm. I hardly got any boost whilst parked... It seems to only go up properly when the engines under load. Get a boost controller. that way you can dial in how much boost you want from inside the car at any time. Mine, (Blitz DSBC), has a warning function that you can set to whatever you want and when you hit that point, it automatically reduces boost to save your engine/turbos.

When you find out, let me know how much it costs... I want another one to experiment with. I want to try to make a mould to mount my boost controller in to the top of the column shroud. Thanks

Glad to hear it all went well... I thought you'd be impressed! Now I REALLY want my rears done! - I don't expect it to make much difference but it'll stop the awful vibration I get at the moment:(

Only any good for us southerners but hey, what the hell.. Ask. It can't hurt!

How often should the ignition key be serviced??? - That's what makes the car go... Wouldn't want it to break down... Sorry Brad, Had to get one in there sooner or later;)