Matt Harwood

You're far too generous! What a nice man A very nice man... A very very nice man...

LOL - I totally agree, except I killed both my front and rears on the road! They never saw a track - Thankfully

Perhaps I do have something else wrong??? - But again, you have a manual car, my 'stalling/blowback' only happens occasionally on auto gearchange at WOT. I'm going to go and see Leon again before 27th, (Want to give you a run for your money Terry! - But only racing on cranking time... See whose car starts first! ), I'll ask him to give it a quick check over.

Very possibly as mine only does it when the box shifts up a gear - Maybe due to full throttle gear change???

It's fine if I keep the boost below 1.2. Even at 1.35 it's only under certain circumstances like going from full throttle at max revs, the autobox changes up a gear as I reduce throttle to almost nothing. Obviously this is rare, as I don't tend to drive like that, but it can happen on things like busy roundabouts/junctions etc Gavin, the stock one is working OK, I was talking to Leon about the symptom and he explained how BOV's work. I may have mis-interpreted what he said but it seemed clear at the time.

Just to throw a spanner in the works, I've been recommended to get one as I'm already getting 'throttle surge' or 'turbo stall' in my auto if I go from full throttle to just light throttle. I get a kind of droning noise and the car seems unresponsive for a couple of seconds, then drive normal again. (Full throttle gives me about 1.3 bar, btw) Apparently, getting an aftermarket BOV will cure the problem and this is what they are supposed to do... The above should be pretty acurate as it was advised from a very knowledgeable person But my translation may have got some og the details wrong I do car electrics, not engines! I've always tried to steer away from them but apparently, now I need one.

Hi Chris, as you rightly said, Carrozeria, is the Jap version of Pioneer. By your description it's an FM modulator CD changer, probably due to the complexity of changing the radio in a Soarer. Assuming they have worked ok together in the past, it should just be a case of retuning the radio to the output of the changer. As has been said already, try a pre-recorded CD in the unit first. If the unit is more than 3 years old, it wasn't designed to play CD-R's, (they usually do, but they weren't designed to). If you can't get it to tune in, check that a frequency expander hasn't been fitted which is stopping the original radio from going down, (oo-er), low enough to pick up the signal. If you know where the modulator box is, they usually have either a variable control or multi position switch to change FM frequencies in case of another radio station sitting beneath the CD when playing - This should tell you what frequency you're looking for. If all else fails, I think, (going by memory), I can get a complete new one for around £125 + Vat. - UK units work around 88-90 mhz, so you'll be able to recieve this frequency either way. Good luck:)

You'll almost be able to do a burnout on idle - Wheelspin everytime you engage drive!

Since we looked at your car Paul, I seem to have aquired the same problem, not quite as bad but I can definately smell petrol... Paranoid perhaps! - I'll check my neck restrictor later.

Diff oil. Supposed to be changed every 36000 apparently. Leon Drained the 50,000 mile sludge from mine yesterday. I was quite shocked to see the difference in oil colour and more importantly, all the metal shite stuck to the magnetic drain plug:eek:

I've got one but my PC doesn't like it Still, I've just formatted the whole harddrive, so I can feel another attempt coming on

That's an easy one to answer in just one word:- Pass ! There are some guys on here with Toyota's parts CD rom that may be able to help. Before you comment Martin, I know I have them, I just can't use them

I expect that ecu would be quite expensive from Toyota. Try Eurospec, (Mark), I know he had some a couple of months ago and I haven't heard they are a common thing that goes faulty so he might still have them. His contact number is 01276 670628.

Your honesty is admirable!

At first, I though I'd overlooked a hose or not tightened something up. It also idles differently. It used to cold start at 1100, now it cold starts at just over 1200. Once warmed up it used to idle at 750-800, now it's at 600-650 It doesn't drive any differently. I can't use full throttle yet so I dont even know if it goes any better It does run a lower EGT at a constant speed though

Any chance you can find out anything about the high impedence injectors that Randy spoke of?

Amytime Terry, I can feel some serious brain picking coming on!

Gavin, Are you running with a FMIC? and are your turbos still sequential? - When does the 2nd come in? My reason for asking, since I've fitted a FMIC, my 2nd turbo now comes on line earlier than before. It used to come in at dead on 4000rpm, now it comes in at about 3600-3700. Not that it bothers me, I'm just guessing that as the pump hasn't switched to 12v by that time, it's running a bit lean for a second or so. This probably isn't a problem on your car as you have decent sized injectors to start with

Mines a J-spec. I've looked at the mod on mkiv.com and I don't like it very much. It means that the fuel pump would be constantly live all the time the ignition is on regardless of if the engine is running. I am about to convert it to run 12v anyway because I'm getting a little bit of detonation just as the 2nd turbo comes on line. I'm using a changeover relay that operates from 5-15v. This way I'm still getting the correct operation from the pumps ecu but a constant supply voltage of 12v+ Do you know what the difference is with the UK car?

Ahh, it's Leon that does the Walbro's. I thought it was Chris. I would prefer an internal one. When changing pumps, do you need to alter the wiring to give the pump a constant 12v instead of the stock 9/12v set-up?

Still better than a J-spec pump ! Where did you get yours from and when you say be careful, do you mean that there are more than one type of pump or that some are better than others?

Does anybody have a telephone number for RC engineering? I'd be surprised if they didn't answer their phone! Paul, where did you get that Denso part number from?

I have to confess, I was looking at the 680's myself. Hence the querey of needing a larger fuel rail ... Help required...

Right, loads of questions... 1, Other than injectors, AFC or similar and fuel pump. What else is required? - (Parts only, I know I'll have to get someone that knows what they're doing to set it up) 2, Would you need a larger fuel rail for anything over 550's? 3, Is there anyone in the UK that sells these injectors? - Are they Nippo Denso products 3a, Are there any cars that anyone knows of that run high impedence side fed 550's as standard? - Lexus V8? 4, Has anybody gone down this road before, using high impedence injectors? 5, How many people on here are looking at upgrading fuel systems very soon? - I know Graham Rudd is looking into this now and obviously Paul E, (sorry for hi-jacking your thread Paul ), as Nic suggested, a group buy may be in order, then a group set up session . 6, Nic have you heard of the company Randy mentioned 'Power'? Can you find out if prices are better over there for us?

Things like the Apexi AFC. There's loads more variations but that's just the first one to come to mind as I've been reading up on how it works. You generally use them to trim down the injectors opening duration at lower rpm where the fuelling was ok and let the duration get longer, (more fuel), as the revs climb, (or when needed). Ian C did a very good detailed post recently on this subject. Sometime over the last couple of weeks I think... Again, someone let me know if I've got this wrong:rolleyes: