stevie_b

They might not have done it. Let's see if they're charged and subsequently convicted.

Like JB said. If the guy had all his kids out of the house first, maybe he thought it would immediately look suspicious.

Hello

Good post by Tricky-Ricky. Do you know if OAT coolant is suitable in the supra? I don't recall any brass/copper coolant components.

Hybrid turbos: I think they're J-Spec turbos that have been re-built with steel turbine blades. J-Spec turbos have ceramic blades.

They most important thing with the air filter is to keep the stock feed and filter box, unless you know how to fit a decent cold air ducting system and heat barrier for an aftermarket non-panel filter. Again, unless you know why you need a K&N or whatever, then you probably don't need it. Too many people fit mushroom filters thinking they're better (usually becasue their mates told them that), but they usually result in less power due to the filter pulling in warm air from the engine bay. I don't trust anyone else more than Toyota to make a decent filter for a supra. I'm guessing they spent more on R&D to find the sweet spot on a Toyota 2JZ engine of non-restrictive flow vs effective filtration than K&N did. Lexus oil filters have been debated on here before, in particular in this thread: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?260671-Oil-filter.

Stock ones! I wouldn't even bother with TRD ones unless you have a highly modified car.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Olympic-Mascots-Wenlock-Policeman-Figurine/dp/B005HP1UHK Now read the reviews...

Mmm, protein! http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=152236&d=1337925921

Soopra: too late for you I guess for but for others, most insurers will honour NCB that is 2 years old, so you could insure the car on a classic policy for 2 consecutive years, then on a normal policy for 1 year to refresh the NCB. I'm in a similar position at the moment: the household has 2 cars and 2 drivers, both drivers having built up significant NCB. I've nearly done 2 years on a classic policy. At renewal time I'll either put it on a normal policy, write off my NCB and leave it on a classic, or do some jiggery pokery with the 2nd car alternativing between policyholders (fiddly, not if it's worth it).

There aren't any coolant bleed valves on the supra. Allegedly, it's self-bleeding. So, you said the overheating problem persists even when the thermostat is removed? That's unusual. Usually removing the 'stat makes a car run cold such that it never reaches normal operating temperature. That, and coupled with the fact the overheating got worse above 60mph might suggest a tired/blocked radiator. The supra's longitudinal engine probably means the cooling effect of travelling at speed isn't enough to overcome the extra heat that driving at speed usually generates. Does the rad fan spin OK? Probably not an airlock as that wouldn't be speed-dependent.

If you give any Toyota parts desk your frame number (I think that's right, basically some numbers from your VIN plate) they'll be able to find the part you want. They tend to need the number even if the part doesn't change between models and hasn't changed throughout the mkiv supra's entire production run.

I love the Corrados. Small-ish, muscular looking without being lardy, quite quick (I imagine), with 1990s solid VW build quality.

Thanks again Robzki. The dust seal around the pistons looked OK to me.

Thanks Robzki, the piston length would be very useful. What would you suggest cleaning the pistons with? I used a basic kitchen cleaner.

An update: this is no longer urgent but the problem still persists. Over the weekend I swapped the brake pad carrier on my car for another: one of the sliders on my carrier had seized, or at least was very sticky/stiff. I put my pads on the new carrier (to preserve the pads/disc pairing). I also tried to ensure the pistons were free by cleaning them up a bit, and pushing them in and out by a few mm a couple of times. It's possible I didn't push them enough distance to get the full effect. They were fairly easy to squeeze in with a G-clamp though, and easy to move out with the brake pedal. I also ensured the pads were free-ish to move in their slots. One of them was super-tight before I did anything. Despite doing that, I was still getting excessive heat. I guess the pistons are the main culprit still, because most other things have been checked.

Thanks Robzki. Are there any other gotchas I need to be aware of when trying to free the pistons? I've read somewhere about pistons coming out completely and are a pain to put back in. How do I know when to stop when pushing the piston out?

Thanks guys for the posts, really appreciate it. Yes, they're standard J-spec NA brakes. I've dropped the car back down and put it away for the night. Graham S has a part which could sort the problem out for the front wheel and hence save my bacon (not entirely sure what, as I said I've never done brake work before). I'll look at your posts again when I'm about to fit it. I'll need to leave the rear as is for the journey unless your suggestions fix it, but that should hopefully be OK if I drive sedately. Scooter, is there any particular penetrating fluid you'd suggest? I've heard WD40 can eat into rubber. How do you get to the 14mm slider bolts? i.e. do any other parts (apart from the wheel, obviously) have to come off before I can access them? I've searched for a how-to on here but couldn't find one. Could you go into a bit more detail about the slider bolts please? Is the aim of it to loosen them off and leave them loose? It might be clearer in my head when I see it, but I'm a tad confused at the moment.

I'm in a bit of a tight spot. I've got a long-ish journey to do tomorrow evening (150 mile round trip) and I was intending to use the supra, but I found out today that 2 of the callipers are very likely sticking. 2 of the wheels are affected, nearside front and offside rear. The front one is easily the worst. Symptoms are excessive heat from wheel after driving, and the wheels not turning when jacked up (rear turns a bit but stops, but I can't budge the front one by hand at all). Now, I've never done brake work before. Is it straightforward to free up the callipers as a DIY job? Or, is there someone in the Basingstoke area who's got some spare time tomorrow and who could lend a hand?

Older than most of you. "When I was in Baghdad, you were in your dad's bag."

PS: my switch simply makes a break in a single wire. The aerial is sent up by a rising voltage on a specific wire (can't remember which one, see Lyndon's post for details). It's retracted by a falling voltage on that wire IIRC.

I've got a switch that does exactly that. The switch is fitted to one of the blanking plates where the Slip Cont button usually is (I have an NA so those switches are blanked off). If you turn it on whilst driving, the aerial simply goes up.

OK Stuart, I'll take it. How do you want payment? Paypal?

Is it OEM? Any idea of mileage/age, roughly? Sorry for all the questions, I just want to know what I'm potentially buying and want to ensure it's not tired.

Surrey I think, not far from Woking. Welcome to the club. JamieP had a link to a 6 speed box for sale yesterday.