carl0s

Very important addition You mustn't tighten the main nuts (those on the camber-adjustment cams) with the car in the air. They must be tightened with the suspension settled, else you risk having your bushes torn to shreds as soon as you drop the car. What I did was to jack the car back up again from the wishbone itself, so that it was sat near enough straight, and then tightened them. I was also able to adjust the camber with it like this, and now have the car very close to how it was before. To adjust camber on the RH bush (the one nearest the engine), you need to temporarily remove "that link-bar thing" so that you can get a 24mm socket over the nut, unless you have a slim 24mm spanner to hand.

Please help! I have a UK car with inbuilt fog-light circuitry, but I have replaced my rear lights with facelift jap-spec units, and therefore now have twin brake lights and no rear fog lights. I have an MOT test tomorrow morning and am going to fail on this. I am thinking that if I can find out which wire powers the fogs, then I can strap that wire to the right-hand inner brake light with a resistor, therefore getting a permanently brightened RH fog light. Can anybody tell me which wire I need to look at? Also, to help with my testing, should the fog lights come on without the main lights? e.g. can I test with my multimeter with just the fogs turned on but the lights themselves off? cheers, Carl

Nope Removing the Upper Control Arm (the aluminium one) requires removal of the wheel-arch liner, but that's all I can think really. The LCA was straightforward. If you look at the pics, you'll see that both bolts come into the centre - the RH one comes out to the left, and the LH one comes out to the right.. have a look at the pics and you'll see what I mean.

You're gonna be needing a secretary soon Nic!!

All I removed was the wheel, and also that link-bar thing (I must find out what that's called..) - the very corroded one.

Nice looking car. Rims give it an enhanced stockish look.

Wouln't it be funny to have them hooked up to the mains electricity while parked up

Yeah definately a good idea. I looked for some at my grandad's but we couldn't find any - my uncle had some but it was at work. Weak excuses I know

Thanks Trick

Ah, the Dude. I wonder how he's getting along..

Interesting. I have been pondering fitting Alfa GTV washer arms to mine. They have the squirter-jets along the arm, which seems a good idea to me.

aw thanks I'm chuffed that it's of use Ah, I didn't mention this one.. did you notice the 'go faster streaks' of mud behind my front wheels? TomTom sent me down the WORST road I have ever seen in ages. My heart sinks when I think about it now. My phone was out of juice, my car was almost out of juice, and I needed petrol. The road was 1-cars-width wide, with farm-soil either side, and craters taking up whole halves of the 'road'. I was shitting it. Car scraping on allsorts. I ventured on anyway. With 300yds to go 'til the mainland, the nuclear-damaged concrete stopped and I was left facing mud. Couldn't possibly reverse through the craters, couldn't turn around. Had to carry on. Thank god for LSD's. anyway.. that, plus the fact that mines a UK car (undersealed), and it's done ~80,000 miles

Lastly, look at your car head on and laugh at how much camber you've just given your new corner (visit alignment place ASAP)

Here ya go dude, just for you http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=48973

Here is the offending ball-joint. This was an absolute BITCH to get out. Big hammer struggled a bit with this one. http://www.css-networks.com/lca/17.JPG http://www.css-networks.com/lca/18.JPG God damn it. ARRRRG. Mother hookin' god damn penetrate THIS bitch http://www.css-networks.com/lca/29.JPG http://www.css-networks.com/lca/30.JPG Thank you, big hammer. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. http://www.css-networks.com/lca/31.JPG Yep, it really did take that long. I did disappear for two hours in search of a blow torch though http://www.css-networks.com/lca/35.JPG

Removing the left-hand cam was a major stopping point for me. I went to my grandads off in search of a blow torch, wondering how I would heat the bush-collar and not the cam itself. Two hours later I returned with a bigger hammer. Little hammer was useless. Big hammer became my Tool of the Day. http://www.css-networks.com/lca/21.JPG Thank you Big hammer. http://www.css-networks.com/lca/22.JPG Here I am slowly removing that link-bar thing that was in the way.. like I said there is quite a bit of corrosion on both the item itself and the nuts & bolts. Lots of Penetrating Lubricant helped. http://www.css-networks.com/lca/23.JPG http://www.css-networks.com/lca/24.JPG http://www.css-networks.com/lca/26.JPG http://www.css-networks.com/lca/27.JPG Big hammer hardly even had to touch this one (the right-hand cam) http://www.css-networks.com/lca/28.JPG

Here we can see the drop-links. They need disconnecting from the LCA. This will usually be a show stopper. Time to get the angle-grinder out and replace the drop-links with new ones. http://www.css-networks.com/lca/9.JPG If your drop-links are as easy as this to remove then you're very lucky indeed. http://www.css-networks.com/lca/10.JPG http://www.css-networks.com/lca/11.JPG Using a mahooooosive breaker-bar, I undid the nut from the right-hand camber-adjustment cam. I took a picture here so I could remember how it was aligned. http://www.css-networks.com/lca/12.JPG By looking at the new cam, I could see that it isn't a straight bar and wouldn't come out without removing this link-thing. Next time round I would replace this peice, as mine is very coroded and the bolts were tough to remove - they were coming out but very stiffly and I was afraid they would shear. http://www.css-networks.com/lca/19.JPG http://www.css-networks.com/lca/20.JPG http://www.css-networks.com/lca/13.JPG http://www.css-networks.com/lca/14.JPG

Here's the new wishbone. I was advised that the big bolts (they're actually called Camber Adjustment Cams) would likely be ceased in the bush's collar, so I ordered replacements of those too, as you can see. I also ordered a replacement castle-nut for the balljoint. The bag of black screws are just self-tapping trim screws - unrelated to this job. 16:09. Probably not a good time to be venturing into unchartered territory. http://www.css-networks.com/lca/1.JPG http://www.css-networks.com/lca/2.JPG I jacked the car up. I really do need a proper ramp. Don't forget to use an axle stand. http://www.css-networks.com/lca/3.JPG http://www.css-networks.com/lca/4.JPG http://www.css-networks.com/lca/5.JPG http://www.css-networks.com/lca/6.JPG Here we can see the offending control arm. In my case the balljoint is buggered - MOT fail. The bushes are built into the arms too and some people are replacing the arm for this reason. http://www.css-networks.com/lca/7.JPG http://www.css-networks.com/lca/8.JPG

check it out - my first time with Photoshop's 'Clone Stamp' tool

helloooooooo

that could be a pain to diagnose. I guess it could be a problem with the stalk..

I get the pad-moving click, but this is a clonk, and sounds like the disc knocking against the wheel studs but I can't see why this would occur. The disc does definately have holes which are oversized for the studs..

yeah it's a lotta money for a wishbone, but it's still less than £500

£158 + vat from CJ's contact ..

it doesn't look too hard to me?!? Luckily my drop-links have only been on there a few weeks. If yours are new, they will probably be have to be ground off and replaced