dangerous brain

Cheers fellas. Its very scary doing this job. I am crappin it in case I don't change summat I should or I leave summat unplugged and the whole thing goes bang in my face! This is how much tech I know:- Where will I get the error codes from?? Now maybe you see why I want it looking at properly when I am finished lol. Anyone can lift a donk out or in this case drop it out the bottom and put a replacement in however making it work afterwards isn't so straight forwards or am I needlessly worrying?

Nah you can't chip it as far as I was aware you had to get a piggy back ecu thingumy like a greddy emanage or summat like that. You can get an instant 20hp gain by paying some guy on ebay about a tenner for a piece of paper that says 20 hp on it though LOL:p Seriously fella if you go to a supe meet be prepared to want single turbo's and veilside whatnots and much BLINGness. Just ask CJ if you doubt the power of the supe MOD squad!!

Thats what the dentist used on my mates wisdom teeth!! She was only a ickle person so she ended up kneeling on his chest to tug the blighter out!! Ouchio.

Ah but have you catered for driving the car for the pure pleasure of just driving. I find myself driving loads of extra miles for the sheer hell of it all the time lol. Servicing costs should be about the same as your existing car. The only thing that will eat your wallet is the one stop MOD shop that is the BBS and all its various go faster look nicer bits of kit;)

Passes Faye a pair of pliers and says here deal with that tooth.

You could always get a colour match spray can and deal with it yourself dood!!!

I am gettin into the kitchen bathroom fitting industry. An old freind of mine has recently inherited by retirement a building firm. He is looking for someone to foreman his kitchen section and eventually partner that kitchen section as a seperate firm. So not much riding on that evening lol. But I will see what I can do to make it though as my car is lookin well different now.

Oh yes roll on that fuel bill:p

Cool you sounded like you were doing this job with your home tool kit and mine is very comprehensive but didnt have the bayonet cap fitting for my bleed kit. I had to buy a seperate cap which disgustingly cost more than the original bleed kit itself.

If you need a pressure bleed kit with the universal bayonet fit cap gimme a shout as I have one.

If we can make it we shall. We are pissing it up with a potential business venturer the night before so I dunno how compos mentus I as the default driver am gonna be. I really would like to see Neil as I think we could do with chattin face to face about his car. And its now been two months and another interior Mod or two since I seen u guys. If we are there we are!

Having no back up from anywhere and no-one UK side that has done this job I would prefer to find any problems or things done wrong on a test bed ie rolling road instead of on the road.

No I am completely replacing the engine, gearbox, drivetrain, and all associated wiring and sensors with a whole different set from a TT into my N/A so I want to be sure that all is working properly and is tuned up proper.

No replies for who to take my motor to near Bournemouth with rolling road and tuning capabilities post TT transplant!!!

Christ a respray to that level must cost a sodding big fortune!! Nice looking colour though!! Original which is getting hard these days.

Yeah I removed the cheapo speed converter it was linked in with scotch clips hence I thought that perhaps thats what was causing the trip out. Later on I am gonna check see if the 12 volt supply to the TRL box is trippin out and hence removing the signal. I don't know where the speed senor is but there is a couple of blue and red striped wires with the double silver band on going into a plug on the right hand rear side of the auto gear lever assembly and as I am assuming that speed will be picked up in the drivetrain it may be somewhere around that area. Regards the delimiter if I have put the input signal to the ECU in the right place how comes that yellow wire is still carrying the 112 mph cut out signal? Surely that means there is a fault with the box or will the speedo conversion which seems to work as advertised be affecting the signal on the yellow line. Seems a bit strange to me that the ECU is still getting precisely the same signal it used to get from the old sensor line. Only thing I can do with this is get hold of the voltage chart that the yellow line is meant to put out so I can figure out if its the box or not.

Oh comeon someone must have an idea about this. If someone that has a TRL unit fitted would they mind popping back the passenger carpet taking off the plastic ecu protective cover plate and having a butchers and seeing if their wiring is as in my photo. Pretty please with a cherry on top.

I just fitted the trl delimiter and speedo conversion box in accordance with the instructions provided. Unfortrunately for some reason the delimiter isn't working?? I GPS'd it to be sure but the limiter still kicks in bang on 112 mph. I used the yellow wire like it says to and i cut the pink speed input line to the ECU as instructed ie the second pin in form the top left of the box. So how is the ECU getting a 112 mph signal when That line is cut and the trl yellow line output is in its place? Also the reason I decided to do the delimiter/speedo conversion was that the speedo used to trip out under heavy acceleration or cornering leaving a zero reading until cesation of acceleration or steering. I put this down to a cheapo converter. The TRL one still does it though so I did a bit of diagnosis and the signal supply goes no volts when the speedo trips so therefore I am thinking that the signal itself is corrupt. Thing is the speed sensor affects the steering and stuff but there doesn't seem to be any problem with that side of things when the speedo trips out. ANY IDEAS?? I am going crackers right now This is a picture of the wires at the ECU Wires at ECU

I have 2 back silver 16"s if you want them. I also have a full set of gunmetals that similarly to scooters are in need of some TLC. If nothing else its handy to have a couple of full spares knocking around. PS first check and see what size wheels you currently have you may find someone has just put the wrong size tyre on the back. Its written on the rim and is easy to see.

All in all though a damn good drain and flush through every say 30,000 miles with regular oil changes ie every 3000 like i do mine should offset any problems on the lubrication side. Nearly all modern oils are the dogs whatnots in comparison to oils of days gone by. Bearing in mind now that some manufacturers are seriously upping their servicing intervals should speak a bit for modern lubrication technology. If you are worried about wear rates in things tedeco make all sorts of threaded mag plugs that could easily be inserted into oil systems. Pop one into your turbos oil return line and periodically monitor it. If you get a significant rise in ferrous debris on the plug then you can take investigative/corrective action before you get the death whine!

You don't really stop the failures but you can put them off and more appropriately safely predict when they are likely to happen. When you know how close to failure you can safely take things you have the peace of mind to run a component a lot longer than you might otherwise. RE the FADEC no its still a piece of sh*t IMHO. I used to work the engine test bed as well and its horrifying how many DECU's (digital engine control units) came into us with faults that we were unable to reproduce. We had one come in off an aircraft that plummeted 30 feet in landing phase and wiped out the back legs of the aircraft. It behaved normally with any other engine but match it back with the engine that was on the aircraft at the time (we got the engine in shortly after for post heavy landing tests) and any time you demanded max power increase from lower power levels it spun the engine down to idle before picking back up. The engine didn't do that with any other DECU either Scary huh!! Neil there are more bits to go wrong in a piston engine than a gas turbine!!

Oy you lot its MRS brain don't you go forgettin that!!! Or you Real brain for that matter!!!!

Its either 5 or 7 depending on company but it appears mostly that all insurance companies (ie the big ones) do full no claims in 5 years. Above that there is no advantage to having more years NCB but bear this in mind protected or no if you have a claim your next 3 or 4 policies will be loaded. Don't protect it and when you come back to a burning pile of allready rusting metal some day remember that you will have to insure your next car with no NCB! Insurance really is only any good for the brokers (they are after all glorified bookies). Insurance companies start to make their money back on the likes of you an me as I have paid literally thousands in insurance and never ever claimed a penny.

Hey I never forced anyone to do anything Well maybe some sap to marry me but thats it honest

Yeah if I had a spare lots of grands then I could see that sort of project happening. As I don't I am hoping that the majority of parts I will need will be on the donor car. If there are cheap Mods I can do with the engine out then obviously I will consider them. The painting of the block and shiny blinging things with the donk out seems to me a very good idea! Gives me a bit of time to get familiar with the engine layout etc before I finally take my car off the road. Now this gets me onto another thing I hadn't thought of does anyone know where I can get hold of/borrow/rent an engine stand that I can stick my spangly engine on whilst I paint/shag it all night long!!