LasseV

That car in second video was quite a bit slower than the car in first vid which goes little over 7 sec. It would be a nice to know what exactly makes that difference. Old oil in autobox, bad spark plugs or old ignition parts? Fat chick vs skinny one? I'm just thinking in general how to maintain old car as well as possible. Edit: And damn those gears are long.

Thanks mate. Heavy is bad but not too loud is good. I have n/a so after de-cat/swapping header it can be a too loud and i don't want that.

Nice video and that place looks so beautiful... Well done. I already miss driving my sup

Who know what is the real time for nsx tho i think it is faster than that in real life... But my numbers were real and tested times, and they are in same ballbark as others in this book. This book is a very good one. No need to talk bs, just read the facts: http://www.amazon.com/Toyota-1982-1998-Performance-Portfolio-Brooklands/dp/1855206366

So, did you get this manifold?

Are these exhaust any good? If you compared to HKS for example? I need new cat back and i would like to find good one but reasonable priced. That's because i "need" to buy new header too.

I don't have a link, i have a book. It's called Toyota Supra Performance portfolio by Brooklands Books. Sadly there is no n/a auto test drive, but there is few manual ones. Few interesting tested performance figures from long term test report (by John Phillips): 0-60 6.0s 0-100 16.5s Street start 5-60 6.5s 1/4 mile 14.7s Roadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.92g 70mph to 0 159ft These results are made with 16" tyres. Comparing Golf GTI DSG from 2010: Zero to 60 mph: 6.1 sec Zero to 100 mph: 16.1 sec Zero to 110 mph: 20.5 sec Street start, 5-60 mph: 6.7 sec Standing ¼-mile: 14.7 sec @ 96 mph Top speed (governor limited): 124 mph Braking, 70-0 mph: 175 ft Roadholding, 300-ft-dia skidpad: 0.88 g http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/2010-volkswagen-gti-3-door-dsg-instrumented-test Old lady did put quite good numbers to the table back then, and i don't believe that vr6 corrado is faster than manual n/a Supra. Of course driver was a 90's motor journo, and those guys were very good drivers. Some n/a's (SZ-R) did come from factory with turbo model suspension+wheels and LSD, and it would be nice to know how much that affected to performance numbers. At least we know that turbo model roadholding was 0.95g-0.98g, which is quite impressive even today. People often forget that toyota did wondferful job to keep Supras weight down. Mine weights 1490 kilos with driver (80 kilos) and fuel (45-50l), so dry weight is around 1370 kilos. Stock body, with hks cat back and spare wheel delete. Soarer, Aristo, GS300 all weights a LOT more and civic is not a 300 kilos lighter. I know that most n/a's are in bad shape and their performance is mediocre at best. But it is not a cars fault that people doesn't upkeep their cars properly. It cost money and all that kind of shit...

I know that there are different kind of tunes in Mine's ecu. Maybe mine is more aggressive? I did drive 1 year with standard ecu and i was constantly getting 31mpg and with Mines it is 28mpg (1 year period). Or maybe my driving style has changed?

Not true, i have a test drive reports from 1993 and motor journos did get 6.0 and 6.2 times for 0-60 (manual n/a). And i'm pretty sure that Supra is more cabable car in twisties than type r... Anyway, GS300 is much more heavier car and the engine is tuned differently so not really a same thing at all.

Lets get the facts right in his topic. N/a supra weights max 1500 kilos and it got 220hp, so it has a decent p/w ratio. N/a manual did go 0-60 in 6 sec and i don't believe that auto is that much slower in straight line. I have test driven n/a auto once and it was a dog slow because of crappy box. Seller said that it is healthy box but i didn't believe it. It changed gears so slowly that revs did drop way too down, under 2000rpms. It was also badly maintained car: old and cheap spark plugs, standard exhaust with noisy cat back (20+ year old cat just doesn't flow anymore) crap intake and so on. It just didn't rev. Overall it did feel totally different engine than my own car engine which is in good shape. However, 2jz-ge standard ecu does go to the eco mode in between 3000-4000 rpm, and if you want to go faster you have to skip that. It gives you good fuel economy, but it doesn't rev or it doesn't make good torque in mid range. So i recommend for all n/a Supra owners that you change for aftermarket tuned ecu, like Mines, Tom's, Amuse or similar. It is superb modification, it makes the whole engine much better to drive and especially gives you a lot of more torque in mid range/more linear power output. It will fucked up fuel mileage tho, because throttle response is so sharp and it doesn't cruise that economically in highway speeds (60-70 mph).

Whats wrong about GT86 vs consept? You have to remember that price tag too. I hope that new Supra is not too full of gizmos. Honda did fucked up the new nsx....

Well, that was fast...

Mobil 1 Edit: I don't know is it the best one, but it is a good oil.

Does it need to be a turboed? You can make more n/a power, makes the car much more fun to drive and you can basically mod it as much as your budget allows.

Get some cheap and used oem bilstein, send them to service and buy good springs from Chris (or similar)?

Manual

Well, stock n/a should get this kind of mpg too. My car with mine's ecu is little bit worse tho....

What is "average" price for stockish and good j-spec TT?

If you go with na-t it will not necessary mean that you loose your gearbox, but anyway... Why not stay n/a and just take more power out of it? In the same time you have a more wider rev range, more throttle response, better noise and more oomph than standard ie car is faster and easier to drive fast. (can give more beans in mid turn ) Check Brendan+ITB+widebody from youtube if you want to have a sound clip. I know somebody will come and scream: "IT'S NOT WORTH ITTTTT" but in reality it can be.

Good and clean looking car

Honestly, i think that TT Supra is not a good car for novice driver. Even the n/a will brake traction in hard acceleration (TT will do it more often/easier) in some circumstances and it can be little bit of scary thing if you are not used to it. A lot of Supras has been crashed due to driver errors in first year or so. I did drive the whole winter with Supra and sometimes it is really fast car to react and change direction when the traction is gone. I have a lot of RWD experience (in snow too) and Supra is the most challenging car to drive what i have ever owned. (and most rewarding too!). N/a is good car to learn driving. It is fast enough, but it doesn't have a brutal power delivery, handles beautifully and when you a pushing it just get better and better to drive. If you wan't to have more performance you can make suspension upgrades and add go faster bits (exhaust+ecu). They will cost you quite a lot, but these are not cheap cars to own and mod anyway... I would say take the n/a, learn to drive and after that ---->na-t (this could be a good option if you have a good base car) or go straight to TT (these will be a very collectible cars in the future). Supra's value is going up, so it is expensive no matter what you do...

Good work mate! Test drive reports please I hope you could fix that ecu. Could be a good combination, mines ecu+that manifold.

Well, i think your car value has risen several thousand in a year. Even n/a manuals value has risen 1k£ in last 6-8 months.

Lol I guess low mileage with oem look is more valuable than modded one?