np89

This dispute has been resolved with Ben. He has also messaged and apologised for his reaction this evening which in my view was completely uncalled for. I want to put it out there that I am not in the business of ripping anyone off and I settle disputes as fairly as I can and NOT because I am forced to. I wish to participate fully in this forum but unfortunately it seems that due to the above responses of other members I am unlikely to be enabled to going forward. this is regrettable.

And I think you will find that dispute is settled to the extent that i offered a settlement with the support of the mods and Ric chose to ignore it

Can everyone please calm down and get back in your boxes. This has fa to do with any of you nor is this the place for this to be discussed. I have messaged Ben to try and resolve the situation and dredging up past SETTLED disputes solves nothing nor would you know the details so butt out. Mods lock this thread Please and do your job

Thanks Rog, more than happy to deal with this there too

As explained to you via pm the picture above is for reference as to which pipe i was referring to being that of being compatible with the stock piping. You messaged me asking about the valve and was it genuine and in good working order, the answer to both of which was yes. You did not ask for a picture of the valve you asked would i take a discounted £100 delivered which i agreed to and this is what you received. I was not so rude as to tell you to "do one" , i simply stated the facts of the transaction apologised that you were unhappy and stated that unfortunately you had already messaged me saying you had no doubt the valve was genuine and that you would be polishing it. I am not a trader nor a shop and you are not entitled to ask for a refund weeks after you bought the item and opened, inspected it and messaged me simply that you would be polishing it. Private sales do not work on the basis of you have now changed your mind. Thanks Niall

lol bargain even for 16s which are worth a lot less than the 17s

You know me Ashley, harsh but honest lol

I dont think he will get £600 tbh. Thats pushing the boat too far. Another European seller so of course they are in "mint " condition and super rare...... for 25 year old parts

Same here

Its already started, there's some guy on the FB group looking for £600 for a set refurbed in black with NO centre caps......the supra tax robbery continues......

Whats happening with your old diff carlo?

Any luck with the gearbox situ guys?

Oh wait I've just re-read what you wrote, my mistake, it read like they had cancelled your policy because of undeclared mods as opposed to "gauging interest" mods

Good luck ever getting insured again having had a policy cancelled

Yea, I thought as much. Just begged the question, Toyota obviously spent millions in R&D using the viscous fan so how or why would 2 electric fans priced at significantly less be better. I'm a bit of an OEM junkie when it comes to stuff like that

Apologies for the thread hijack, I've started a thread in Tech!

Just thought I would start a thread in here instead as I kind of hijacked someone else's in chat. Have seen quite a few people lately aiming to make the move to electric fans, however my question is why? I am going back to a viscous setup, for the reason that the viscous fan moves something like 3900 cubit ft per minute as opposed to my twin electric fans that were moving far less. As far as I'm aware even the SRD kit only moves about 900 cubic ft per min (I may be slightly out on the numbers there so please correct me if I am), my point is, what is the idea behind moving to an electric fan setup? - Aesthetics just?

lol you are excused, you have Daddy duties!

I wondered about this in general, I am going back to a viscous setup, for the reason that the viscous fan moves something like 3900 cubit ft per minute as opposed to my twin electric fans that were moving far less. As far as I'm aware even the SRD kit only moves about 900 cubic ft per min (I may be slightly out on the numbers there so please correct me if I am), my point is, what is the idea behind moving to an electric fan setup? - Aesthetics just?

Hah i literally got the drive from my house to the yard out of it! The plan is to stick with it though once finished! Don't be fooled though there has been many a melt down over this car of late but had some good mates round me helping me get it sorted! #teampoints lol

Thanks for the support guys, means alot! Be nice to have it on the road again after almost a year :/

Thanks mate, nearly there! Hopefully it will all be worth it! lol

I thought I would just tag this on for anyone who is wondering about the R154 box conversing a Soarer/JZX100 box. With my car being auto, and I think this is the same for all autos be they UK or J-Spec, the rear prop section is splined and the centre bearing is mounted on the rear section, not the front section as in manual cars and also manual front props are a 4 bolt flange (although for 6 speed I believe they are splined). So this then presents the problem of what prop are you supposed to use to join the front prop that came with the box to the rear section and the diff. I managed to get an NA auto prop from MattP on the site here which had the 4 bolt flange on the rear section so I could bolt it to my front section. However, there were two issues with this: Firstly, because my car had a Large UK Spec diff and flange the spacing for the prop mounting points was wrong. The UK Spec Auto propshaft rear is quite thick and the flange to join to the rubber coupling is quite large, which meant that the smaller J-Spec NA Auto shaft spacing was too little and would not bolt up to my rubber coupling. At this point I was at a bit of a loss and consulted the guys at Garage D, who advised I could either "stretch" the rubber coupling to fit up to my diff flange and bolt to my smaller prop - although this did present the issue of would it weaken the rubber coupling, and btw it doesn't stretch, I tried lol The other option was to compress my rubber coupling to mate up to the smaller NA propshaft first and then mate it to the diff flange. This worked perfectly. I did this by lining up the holes in the propshaft flange to where I wanted them to go on the rubber coupling and in a circle, winding them in using M8 bolts and a nut on the other side. This gets you to a point where the little collar on the propshaft flange side is nearly face to face with the "cup" on the rubber coupling, pressed against it but not in it. When I got to this bit I "tapped" the side of the coupling with a hammer and the collars each popped into the cups where they were now held, I undid the M8 bolts and the propshaft stayed where it was. For anyone trying this, it is easy enough but don't be alarmed if your rubber coupling looks a triangular shape after, that's just the way it is being held and it DOES rectify itself when you bolt it up to the diff flange. As the rubber coupling was originally matched to the diff flange the bolt holes were only now slightly out after the propshaft has pulled its mounting points. It was much easier on the diff flange under the car as the holes didn't have anywhere near as far to travel, but used the same method and the collars popped into the cups and the rubber coupling was now again the correct shape - of course whenever you have the cups and collars clicked into place you replace the bolts with the correct M12's as per OEM: My last challenge in fitting up the prop was now, the overall length was fine and the two halves met as they should but the centre bearing mounting is on the front prop and this fell about an inch short of the mounting point on the underneath of the car. I'm not sure if this is a UK Spec thing or an Auto vs Manual thing, I've never heard of it before and it surprised me: I couldn't move the mounting point on the car and trying a number of variations of the fixing of the centre bearing (plus I think its only really supposed to be on one way!) did not move the mounting point on the centre bearing carrier either. As this was a part that was going to see a fair bit of force I wanted to make sure it was mounted securely and not liable to move about under tension. I had thought about just bolting 2 bits of metal to the car and bolting them to the centre bearing carrier but I wasn't convinced that this would take the abuse at all so it called for a more "engineered" solution. With the help of a friend who is fairly handy with a welder we actually split the top section off the bearing carrier on the old prop and modified the existing carrier so we could set a piece into it and then welded the two sections together so it was double skinned as per OEM the whole way round but gave us a second extended mounting point about an inch further forward: This worked perfectly and lined up with the original mounting point on the car. After this it was just a matter of bolting up the centre section and that was my propshaft sorted!

And eventually got to here: Thank god though I do not have to re-plug the loom in this! Only re-install! The link is a full custom loom job so the new mapper will have to make a loom and install that, which I am very glad of!

So now that the engine had arrived back it really was time for me to get moving on my end and start preparing for the engine to go back in. In the meantime, there had been some doubt about the capability of the Exedy hyper clutch I had chosen and its ability to handle the sort of power the car was going to make so I was leaning towards another brand that I had a lot of faith in from previous cars, an ACT. However, at this point, as you can imagine, going manual and full forged engine rebuild in one year, money was starting to become a bit less abundant and I had to be a bit smarter as I still had a management system to worry about. In truth, there was nothing really wrong with the Adaptronic E440D that I had been using, but I didn't really want any association whatsoever with the guy who had been at the root of all this to begin with so I sold it and was set on a Link G4+ Xtreme which which would open up my opportunities to different mappers. I decided that I was going to go for an ACT TS2-HDG6 6 puk sprung paddle clutch and by happy coincidence, Powermax Engineering in Northern Ireland Sell both so I was able to work out a deal with them for both and kill two birds with one stone: I also took some time and re-wrapped my manifold with some quality Titanium DEI heatwrap: And it wasn't long before I ended up with something that looked a bit like this: I also wrote a list of what was still to be done so I wouldn't forget!!lol