David P

I've commissioned another 4" supercharger pulley fabricated with cross-hatches, ordering a couple of different length Gatorback belts and a can of anti-slip juice. With the new max-wrap idler, belt, braces and snake glue, 15lbs of boost will soon be mine. The upgraded valve-body which has been modified to alleviate the P to D bump, increase line-pressure and speed up gear-changes is winging it's way too, count-down to the 13th begins.

It's booked in for a remap on 13th December, so as long as my go-faster stripe doesn't prevent me from finishing the go-faster list I'll sink your eyes into their sockets. If you make it, I'll meet you for a pint of 'Heavy'. It's called 'Hogmanay' there.

You've got to be in it to win it.

After a night of Gremlins beating my poorly finger with a hammer in time with my heart beat, today I trapped it again between a handle and bucket, and it clicked. It turns out that the end of my digit is broken and was misaligned, fortunately, the bucket mishap has reset it straight and my fingernail now has a trendy go faster stripe to remind me to let it get better.

The two ECU's will be 'talking' to each other and sensors various and the lights on the dash, you'll need to mix and match from my previous comments then suck it and see and work your way through it. If you don't have the Workshop Manual for both systems to study, you won't stand a chance.

Try the manual one first, if it doesn't do as it's told then try the auto ECU and hard wire out some of the auto functions and fit a resistor here and there to fool others.

It might be easier to leave the auto ECU in and fool it to function without error codes? Maybe you'll just have to suck it and see.

As if this bitter weather was not task enough, I managed to trap my finger in the car door and as well as a dreaded black fingernail, the whole end of my digit has decided it's a blood blister. Now the sky-hook bracket is fitted, it blends in amongst the other contraptions and looks as though it might be up to the task without further tinkering. It's a simple job to change belts, which is a good thing because I'm on my third different length belt trial fit. The belt shown is a Gates 2563, yet it's almost too long and would be after the initial-stretch so need to order the next size or two down. Because this idler is so close to the supercharger pulley it's very fussy to be perfectly aligned. Being a digit down didn't help matters, yet have adjusted it by eye and trial and error into the position that runs the belt true. Before swapping back to the previous belt and configuration I gave it a blip and WOW, no slip and the sound of the charger is completely different, I can only describe it as an 'instant trouser department' noise. Here's a clip with the new max-wrap configuration at tick-over, this new charger is clattery when cold, yet sweet as a nut when warmed up.

If you choose to fit a cooler, I have an electric oil pump.

If the stock bolt length is correct, file the diameter down to fit.

Enquire here, there's no email address but there's a telephone number you could call and ask. http://www.cruizewheels.co.uk/

"Chap" thinks you should try it with another ECU. This is not far from you, try before you buy. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?278277-TT-Auto-ECU&highlight=auto+ECU

It was explained in plain English in the sentence before the one that included "40mpg".

The adjustable two-piece sky-hook 15lbs boost-bracket is born. It might need a tricky triangulation of the top stay, yet will nail it on tomorrow then find a belt that fits and give it a whirl to find out.

Without the bracket the belt pulls 12lbs of boost and with it 15lbs, so that should make the 1lb of steel worth it.

A crock of guano and gratefully binned, it makes you wonder how they were ever OE approved. This bracket will be a sky-hook work of art, when it's eventually finished.

I managed to gain access to outside the Workshop this afternoon, but further to to bracket job there was some maintenance to attend to. The Mcguard locking wheel nut key had broken off in one of the nuts and getting them off used up most of this prime time, if you have a set of these, I suggest you give them to someone you don't like. The loose baffle in the exhaust was then cured with a few well aimed clonks with a ball pein hammer, which left only a few minutes of chilly daylight to tinker with the bracket.

I haven't studied the manual yet, but the Tech Guru at Aquamist informs me that it won't function with the 3 Bar and I need a 2. I think all 2 Bar MAP sensors have the same voltage range. https://docs.google.com/viewer?attid=0.1&pid=gmail&thid=13a98ad2c307aac2&url=https://mail.google.com/mail/ca/?ui%3D2%26ik%3D199ae3679f%26view%3Datt%26th%3D13a98ad2c307aac2%26attid%3D0.1%26disp%3Dsafe%26zw&docid=67c779288fbb3a31f04793c904fe6118%7C0a8531ba9468149f2f16401dc3cde976&chan=EwAAAPvcRyyURfnfrX5YWG9WGJySrnJjIXQKUUkebQtQJT2M&a=v&rel=zip;z1;manual.pdf

http://www.akamoto.co.uk/dump-valve.asp

Good news is; I have an ERL MF2 ECU to upgrade the water/meth system. Bad news is; For compatibility it requires a 2 Bar sensor and I have an AEM 1 Bar and 3 Bar but not 2. If any one has a 2 Bar AEM to sell or swap for a 1 or 3 please contact me. Thank you.

For those too tight to buy a mag. Pics Words

That looks like mine twice, when it's finished they are going to run a full feature on it, I'll go and get a copy.