David P

This number feels lucky too.

Yes, yes and yes.

The module under the drivers seat is O.E alarm, I think you'll find the control module you seek is behind the dash near to the upper glove-box. Give Keron a call, he'll sort you out. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/member.php?676-keron

I'll have this lucky number.

I've had a tinker with the bracket top-section and triangulated the mounting which required mounting. It's now a 3-piece sky-hook bracket.

It's amazing how awkward everything has become, wonky finger, wonky weather, wonky workshop access and wonky deliveries. The modified valve-body for the transmission won't be here in time to fit before the remap. So that just leaves bracket final tinkering and hope that the new supercharger pulley gets here in time.

All being well, after Thursday I should have all the power I didn't need for the winter.

I plan to run it at Santa Pod in the 'Spring', that'd be the best place to see. I've found a short tunnel on a one-way by-road to play with and a willing volunteer cameraman, after the remap I'll get a tunnel-run video clip.

I've had two afternoon windows in the weather conditions and have managed a couple stints in a cosy corner out of the wind. No pics from Thursdays tinkering, I was too busy racing the sunshine. Supercharger off and re-shimmed mountings and modified the insulation on induction elbow to clear bulkhead, inspected supercharger and rebuilt. There are a few left-hand only awkward bits, which were a lot more awkward with my dodgy digit. All is well. Today I had the charge-cooler off and on again, fitting new plugs, rocker off to "repair" oil-leak and fitted another hose-tail into boost side of manifold. All back together again as the sun went below the tree line on both occasions. Offagin. Shown 6, 2, 3, 5, 4, 1. 6 & 5 rusty, a souvenir off the Mad Max days, 4 & 3 oily, from leaky rocker-cover and 2 & 1 were just right. But baby bears bed are the tips that all look just fine. The RTV had almost no adhesion to the Liquid metal or the casting and lifted off easily except where I had scratched a line on the crack, so after three good scrubs with solvent degreaser, rinsed off with boiling water, then scrubbed 3 times in methanol, I gave it some scratches to think about and a super-thick mega-blathering with RTV. I was underwhelmed by the almost complete lack of adhesion of previous RTV repair, yet had no polythene product at hand to try, so had to use RTV again, this'll have to do for now.

If that's all you want, it would be simpler to fit coil-packs to your GE.

..

It looks as though it's doing you a favour, leave it where it is.

With engine, loom, sensors and ECU, the job should be plug&play, enough. The VVTI is a 2J with an extra dimension, stock ECU('s) or use one after-market ECU to manage engine and another (linked in link) to manage the cam timing, if running Auto you could use even another to control the transmission and have flappy-paddle gear-changes. If you plan to stay N/A, you could get more out of a VVTI than a non VVTI. I am working on an N/A 75mm t.b. conversion that would be interesting to add into the possibilities. The VVTI's I believe had lighter con-rods and a higher rev-limit, these would be plenty strong enough for N/A, yet would need swapping for non VVTI rods to boost to more than 7psi? "Kirk" has posted some pic's and info about con-rod differences on here somewhere in a "Branners" O.P. thread.

There's an after-market ECU that can be used with this VVTI 2J variant to re-map the inlet cam and to give more power at the expense of economy. http://www.2jzgarage.com/2012/02/2jzgte-vvti-aftermarket-support/

I've been too busy tinkering with my supercharger conversion to play with the Lexus flappy paddles. It's on my list of jobs to do on warm summer afternoons.

http://www.invo-tec.com/products/body-kits---exterior/body-kits/do-luck/toyota/supra

Try both, one at a time, gearbox ECU first.

It has brightened up a bit and I've trial fitted the new belts. It's the Gates 2551 or a Gatorback 4061005 that's the required size. I'll get a couple of 4061005 Gatorbacks ordered, and swap the Gates 2359 for another 2551. Then I'll have at least managed to get one little job off the list, and without getting into trouble with my digit either.

Same.

Neutral start switch or ECU.

Weather Underground says "zero probabilty of rain", yet it's lashing it down out there. I'm peering out of the window itching to get on with some of the final little jobs and my finger is signalling to me in Morse code. -.. --- -. ----. - / -.. --- / .. - ("Don't do it")

50% belt-wrap on 6.78" crank pulley = 10.5" 80% belt-wrap on 4.2" supercharger pulley = 10.5" = 13lbs boost. 80% belt-wrap on "True Gripped" 4" supercharger pulley = 10" = 15lbs boost. This guess-measure-y equation shows the drive-train is up to full capability. Should Sky-Hook Bracket Mk1 prove fit for purpose, I'm confident it'll now have sufficient traction to boost 15lbs.

I have found a remarkably efficient local supplier of Gates belts. Order by telephone before midday and whatever belts I want are delivered to my door by 4.30pm! Amazing service from CT Autoparts, Kettering. Straight exchange or full refund for any belt(s)s found unsuitable and at discounted trade price too. Today I exchanged the Gates 2563 belt that was almost to long, for a 2550 & bought a 2535 for trial fittings. I'll have a go tomorrow, yet I'm concerned to break my finger-end in the cold again, these Gates belts are a lot stiffer to weadle about and crispy to handle, compared to the softer and much easier and nicer to work with Gatorbacks. As soon as I have identified the length(s) needed, I'll order a couple of Gatorback 4061005 and/or 4061000 from the U.S. They're £8 each, bought in two's and shipped for the price of one, with a total value below reach of Robbing Tax Hoods itchy fingers.

The tramp with a gold-tooth look?

If you don't win, look on the bright side. If Darnley Auto Works later put up a surprise prize, you can save it in case you get something Golden.