fuldhat
-
Posts
333 -
Joined
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Store
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Supra Articles
Gallery
Everything posted by fuldhat
-
Strange that some many are keeping stock power lvls, when it is so easy to get to BPU.
-
I am shocked, that any one could think like this...
-
Engine Specifications: Stock internals. Power Enterprise timing belt, Titan dampened crank pully, Greddy Oil Sandwhich plate, Tuned to BPU Spec Turbocharger & Induction: Stock J-spec turbos running 1.2 bar, Apexi Power intake. ARC Front intercooler. Greddy Blowoff. Fuel, Tuning & ECU: HKS EVC-S, Greddy BBC, Greddy SPC. Exhaust: Full Decat, HKS Superdragger, 1 bar RR. Drivetrain: Stock 6-speed V160 , Southbend Stage 3 OFE Clutch, Brand new OEM Flywheel. Weight Reduction & Transfer: None yet. Suspension, Wheels, Tires & Brakes: Cusco 4 way coilovers, Cusco front and rear swaybars. UK Specs front and rear with brembo discs and pads. CCW 505a wheels 19" 19x10 F 19x11 R, Bridgestone 265/30-19 F 305/30-19 R tires. Interior & ICE: Sparco Milano Seats, Rear seat in new fabric, Sparco steering wheel, Defi Oil Pressure, Defi Oil Temperature, AEM UEGO Wideband, Greddy Shifter, Dash painted black. TRD 320 Km/t speedo Exterior: Cleaned all the way around. Custom sideskirts and rear bumper. Top Secret front. Facelift front and rear lights. Performance: Max power - N/A bhp @ rear hubs Max torque - N/A lb/ft Max speed - N/A mph 0-60 - N/A seconds
-
-
From the album: 1993 Toyota Supra TT 6-Speed
-
From the album: 1993 Toyota Supra TT 6-Speed
-
From the album: 1993 Toyota Supra TT 6-Speed
-
From the album: 1993 Toyota Supra TT 6-Speed
-
Yes I have a FCD fitted. Should have the new sparkplugs within the next few days. Regarding issue number 2, the problem was found. faulty tire.. So thats really good. Just need a new tire. Will write update, when I have changed the sparkplugs.. The coilpacks are new.
-
Hi Have 2 issues with the car. First one: When the boost reaches over 1 bar, then there are some hickups in the acceleration. Just changed the sparkplugs to NGK Iridium "7". Will try Denso Iridium next weekend Second one: When you accelerate in 3 gear or more, then the car pulls the left. As soon I left of the power, then car turns back and runs straight again. Could this be a wheel bearing or maybe some bushings?
-
35 where made in the US. There is one very well kept in denmark in white.
-
Hmm I have had a EG civic with the B16A2 with new manifold, exhaust and intake.. On the dyno it had 180 hp. And with me in it 75 kg, it ran 14.8. No one in the danish honda club, have run anything like 13.1. A stock civic EK/EG with B16A2 will run around 15 sec. And there is tons of video and so on to back that up. Sorry, even though I have had 3 hondas, Civic EG SIR, Prelude 2.2, Civic 1.5 ILS. they are not fast. Fun to drive yes. But compared to my TT, they are very slow.
-
hehe
-
Hi.. Do you have the door handles (inside) both left and right. (The part you pull, to open the door, from the inside, plus the plastic around it.)
-
You can get a complete replacement part for the window for less than 100£. Very simple job to replace.. Just need to reuse the motor.
-
I have front 10x19 - 265 wide. Rear 11x19 - 305 wide. No problems at all. Full steering lock ect. Dont remember the offset though. Full Geo setup has been made, and the car sticks to the road and I am yet the to have the rear step out(unless you want to) in a turn or long bend, even though going very fast.. But the roads in denmark and sweden are also quite good.
-
Yes have driven the auto tt.. and would take the manual everytime.... The auto is alright, but the manual is much better.
-
Manual everytime...
-
Carbon Supra from Scandinavia ->Seen this in action...Very quick..900 hp+
-
Price for just the door cards and the steering wheel? (Will it fit sparco center?) Thx
-
Best way to drive an auto.... hmm Swap to manual 6 speed..
-
Before I got my supra, I was certain that stock spoiler or TRD was the only way a supra could look. But after I got my supra, which was cleaned of all badges, doorhandles, wiper, side indicators and spoiler, then the choice was easy... Spoilerless.. http://imageload.dk/files/55146bfa8dfa139997bfad97e3ca0066.jpg My sup.. it is dirty here. Getting the full treatment on saturday.
-
Hi I need the printplate thats behind where I drew the red circle. Any one got one Must for a J-spec TT 6sp. Pre facelift Thx. http://imageload.dk/files/7490ccc6bce5381021abd36ec319c913.jpg
-
Correct way to warm up / cool down engine and turbos
fuldhat replied to 1JZGTE's topic in mkiv Technical
Hmm Can see that most people assume that the oil is warmed up only after 2-3 miles. It normaly takes longer than that. Want to be sure drive atleast 6-7 miles. Me personaly always let the engine idle for 20 secs or a bit less. Then drive without boost the first 8 miles, and let it cool off when driving home the last 3-4 miles. Turbo timer is not a good idea. You have very little oil circulation when you idle the car. And there is no fresh air brought into the system to cool it down. Much better to let the whole engine cool down the last 3-4 miles, and then shut it off. -
2 months and counting.. (But this one I am keeping for long time..) But i rarely keep any car for more than 2 years. I always buy them in very good condition and spend lots and lots of money them, then after some time, you feel the urge for something new. Also got a Audi A3. This is going on sale next week.. Have had it for 3 months and spent 4k£ on repairs alone. I have never owned a car that broke down that much.. Last time you will see me in a german car...
-
Funny.. In sweden there are 2 places that seems to be alot like this K.T.C. They are called "european sports cars" and "J-spec" All the cars looks really good on the pictures, and when you call them they promise the condition of the cars to be great. Then you drive between 200 and 500 km to check them out, and they are all straight to the junk yard. In denmark/sweden they are mostly known as UK scrapmetal..
