Hemanhead

Yes but without knowing what class they are racing or the clientele their cars are aimed at, I can't comment. I'm sure that was one of the reasons Whifbitz stopped racing time attack, because of the step away from R888's. Again though we are comparing a modern car with complex electrical ecs, abs, differentials and chassis to a 25 year old design. Everyone will ofcourse have an opinion on the matter, but if either of the Nums thought they could go faster around the Ring in Cup2's i'm sure they would because they would definitely be easier to live with on a noisy motorway commute and in standing water.

It's not short sighted atall, he's driving a single turbo supra and asking about performance tyres. R888's feel better, grip harder and are fine to drive in the wet, nobody pushes these cars hard in the wet so if all you need to do is drive, they are fine. Road noise wise....yes I will give you that but again, it's not a commuter car. I appreciate the Michelin's are a better 'all rounder' for everyday driving (I have also had a 535d and although it was RWD, it's not 600bhp) but you will not keep with a similar car on the stickier tyre. Semi slicks helped transform my traction levels.

Johnny has a GTR though, he could put put a full set of ditch finders on there and the car will still launch faster than a Supra. Listen to the R888 recommendations if you want serious grip at the rear.

FPR is underneath the inlet manifold if that's the picture you are referring to. Nice to see this car getting finished, hopefully you will get to enjoy in this summer ?

Very nice mate, my boot is smoothed like your's and I agree it looks so much cleaner. The car looks great, i'm not a bodykit fan but I think because you have a non standard colour it works well.

Hi, well i gather you are going single turbo. The simple answer is yes you can run it on the stock ECU but it overfuels and runs lean as the ECU is meant for a sequential twin turbo setup, it is always going to be a more ideal situation if you use a stand alone ECU. You haven't said too much about you're plans to control boost and you may well need an upgraded fuel pump. UK spec injectors are 550cc which should be enough for you're power plans, J specs are only 440cc (20+ years old) and would not be able to handle it. I wouldn't want to comment on reliability especially on a limited budget and not knowing if parts are new or old. Single turbos are alot of fun, however this seems alot of hassle for power gains that are generally only 50bhp above a good BPU Supra. In my opinion you would be better off staying BPU and enjoying the car reliably.

The file is probably to big, it does say when uploading the maximum file size.

I think if you are having a Veilside front, you should do it properly and have the full lower part with the little canards/spoilers or whatever they are. Liking the progress, keep it up.

Thanks a bunch guys, for those interested you can have a better look in the flesh on DB.....if it doesn't get rained off hah!

Thanks guys, looks better in person as these things usually do, the mobile camera doesn't really pick the finish up

Thanks mate, I'm happy with it now. The sound deadening has worked really quite well, I warmed it up last night on the way to and from the paintshop. You can hear the things you want but still have a conversation inside ( my car is seriously loud ), sound quality from the speakers is better and played lower. My sound deadening is the lighter version, so quality could be improved further if needs be.

Thanks mate, it's coming along nicely. I can slow down now it's all back together. Exactly what I was trying to achieve, thank you. These are metal monkey dials. You can have TRD everything if you like, but thats a tad overkill for me, hence only doing the rev counter. Thanks, the seats are quite nice, very firm and supportive but whether or not they are comfortable on a long trip will be tested this week. One advantage over my last Recaro's is they can fold giving much easier access to the rear seats.

Steaming ahead now but the dragonball has arrived so soon! Must work faster...... Anyway, the new dash is in, with a new headunit and the continuation of soundproofing, At this point i'm just waiting on layers of carpet dye to dry and for the dash panels to come back from the painters. Although this is an unflattering nightshot, i think it necessary to show the difference of then and now and offer a big thanks to Scott on this forum who squeezed me in at late notice to get this stuff done, much better Now the new dials are in, the LED's tested and working and the Nardi snap off steering wheel removed for this rare TRD piece. The house is becoming less cluttered and the end almost in sight now. Final pics and I am really pleased with how this all turned out, hopefully you can agree, well worth the effort. New gear surround, leather handbrake, leather gearknob and SRD billet lifter. Carpets are customs from Dane at Callaway motorsport on this forum incase anybody wanted to know. Great fit, front and rear. Still more to do but that is the interior about 90% where I want it to be now and a really great place to sit. Thanks for viewing.

Goodluck, hope it goes well for you.

Thanks guys Here is some more progress for you're viewing pleasure. Whilst the dash panels were out, I media blasted them, they really were not in good shape, especially the speedometer trim. This was to be sent for painting in a simple satin black to best match the new gear surround trim I bought from Japan. So while this is away for paint it gave me time to fit a full Heckler LED conversion. This is not a hard process to follow and following the instructions from Si's website is a doddle. Some simple soldering and everything will work Below is a pic that shows you how far you're speedometer, coolant and rev counter will continue to move if you simply take off the needle at the stop point. Please don't, Lift it over the stopper and it will rest where it wants. Take a photo and replace in the same position when you're new gauge is in place, crude I know but it works. In the backgound you can see one of the PCB's, the wires get passed through the old bulb holes and I hard soldered it to positive and negative. New TRD rev counter and 220mph speedo, looks much better I think. Fin. Back to the car again because I have been waiting for mastic tape and more carpet dye. The car hasn't had a water membrane on the door cards so whilst I am dynamatting everything a membrane will put on. After cleaning the card I've gone inside and covered fully the outside skin, taken components off of the centre, dynamatted and losely screwed them back in so I can use the door while i waited for the tape. I had a little leftover so the doorcard itself received some treatment. I will at a later date seal the speaker bracket against the membrane but for now as the bracket is slightly damp from there being no membrane, it will be replaced when I have the available time and inclination. Unfortunately for me, the only mastic I seemed to be able to buy at the rush was this White stuff, and although this isn't pretty it's most certainly function over form here and the doorcard soon goes over the top. Both doorcards receive the same treatment, but here is a finished photo, I am sure you can use you're imagination for the passenger side. No car can go back together without a goodluck charm, and here is mine, I'm guessing 1 and 100 Yen coins. Thanks for viewing.

So i've decided that to finish the car i'd have to work or train less, and make some time for it. I sacrificed training and the car has really come on leaps and bounds. Upto this stage i'm very happy with the results. It's worth noting that I do actually have all the caps to cover the screw holes, this was done after every panel was removed, cleaned and vinyl restored before being fettled back into place. A good condition stock interior is really not a bad looking place to be. Starting with the Roof, I've worked my way backwards. I know some love it, but it is not my cup of tea. I've always hated the flock interior and the dash is no exception, it must go back to stock, so out it all must come! Once out, I am confronted by this nasty mess. While juggling interior work I have also gotten another carpet. It is in better condition than my black one....but unfortunately it is also grey This has been completed over quite a few days, started by dyeing, drying then washing and drying again. The last picture is not the final result, these happen to be the only photos I took of the job. You will see how dark it is once the interior is completed but note the process was repeated four times to achieve the finished result and 1.5L of black dye. More to come .

So it's official, six speeds are the best then ? Well done, I bet you're a happy chappy right now.

I didn't map nor set up the calibration Krister, Ryan did. Thats simply what i see on the Toucan, maybe it is like yours.

1 : Low boost 2 : Medium boost 3 : High boost 4 : High boost and launch control 5 : Pops and bangs 6 : Lean cruise 7 : ------------- 8 : Valet Traction cal switch : OFF, it's always off.

P....

I am in the process of getting my interior how i want it, and I can completely understand how you feel about it. It will become a place you love to sit, you can really enjoy the car now, congrats.

Nobody wants a Supra to look like that abortion so stop lying. Alot of people come on here similar to yourself and bragging rights does play a part in this as you're mate has a C63. Before you do anything silly, research and ask questions because something low and wide doesn't translate to 'grip monster'. Infact Supra launch terribly really when compared to other cars - but have fantastic rolling acceleration.

Opinions may vary but in it's previous condition somewhere around the 11k / 12k mark i guess by virtue of it being a UK spec.

Well cars that weren't just designed to be shopping boxes generally do increase in value as they age, thats not exactly a big secret. You might want to jump on the marque now as prices are only going one way. 11k would net you a decent TT automatic or TT 5 speed. Being the age they are seals and all sorts generally want changing right now. Running costs will depend greatly on what car you buy. For example if a car hasn't had valve stem seals, crank pulley or any suspension components changed you can expect some fairly large bills before you put any fuel in. (Crank pulley can be around £300 for example depending on brand.) It's never going to be a cheap ride and quite possibly if you are concearned about money, it may not be the car for you. They dont have a habbit of 'popping' but should you manage to do that, a 2JZ GTE engine is probably worth £1500 - £2000