Suprakeith

Well haven’t updated this for while duo to problem with damper and was unsure if to continue with build or sell engine and car back to stock and sell on, but after few weeks looking at other cars and options, decided can’t sell her or part with engine as build means to much. Ordered new Titan version 2 crank damper plus ordered proper crank damper installation tool, but the tool kit didn’t include right adaptor for 2jz crank so made bolt at work and used bearing to ensure damper went on even. After fitting damper and fitting new crank bolt, fan belt tensioner back on, refitted belt and radiator and filled with coolant and she fired up again right away and managed to run for about 10-15minutes before dying, think timing may just need tweaking but at least oil and water got up to temperature and had no leaks. Tried fitting N/A viscous fan but still catches the damper so have ordered new TT cooling fan from Whifbitz today. Plus have ordered millers running in oil and new Toyota oil filter. Next on list is to get the braided lines made for oil cooler do oil change tweak timing and run her again up to temperature. Then she can go back on to floor and can get access to front wings as they in garage roof and send them for paint before refitting. Forgot to mention have also bleed the clutch and brakes so that’s another job done, put all new brake and clutch fluid in after flushing out old fluids. Another job need to do is bleed the power steering system as could here slight wine from new power steering pump while running. My misses had got week off soon so going to be ordering Whifbitz na-t turbo kit so it arrives when she’s at home, then going to wrap manifold and downpipe in titanium heat wrap.

I know have one in garage in box somewhere, if get chance will dig it out and send pictures

Very nice, can’t wait to see how you get on with this box

I did think that couple weeks ago but garage who help build engine is closing because he had enough of ungrateful customers, think more than that but that’s what he saying. I did think about the traders on here but by time towed car to them and paid the high labour costs that would be gearbox fund gone. Really going to have to sit and think about what’s best for me, as part of me wants car done but other part just wants to get my life back.

I have put everything into the build for sure, not sure want to sell at all just weighting up options as if honest after 14k and 18months I am struggling to finish it myself and have been let down by so many mates it’s unreal, this weekend I damaged the ATI crank damper as tried to remove using my puller which I knew was too small but mate said would help with his and as normal didn’t show. It’s another £500 didn’t plan on spending. I do want the finish and enjoy the car but think cause have put so much in and every day drive boring car to work I losing the enjoyment and thrill of it. As know if sold engine and car would have enough for car I enjoy driving again. Like say not sure want to sell engine just at a cross roads with it all.

I was expecting 7k so not shocked at that one bit bud. And she is close to be finished but still needs about 6k before on road as need turbo, ecu, injectors and need to get front wings, bumper and bonnet painted.

Am considering selling my fully forged built Na-t monster engine. The engine runs fine no leaks. Just interested to see what people think it’s worth before completely make up mind. The full details are in my build thread. Have listed full spec well as much as can remember at moment, so may be few parts to add that have forgotten, the build has cost my just under £14k and the new crank damper will be fitted next weekend. The engine is more than capable of 1000bhp, I was building her to handle that no worries. Full spec Block Decked, Honed, cleaned & painted black. Forged CP pistons - 9.0.1 - rated 1500bhp. Forged Eagle rods 1500bhp rated. ACL race bearings -standard size. Brand new Toyota OEM Crank. ARP Conrod bolts. ARP mains. ARP Head studs. New Toyota TT oil pump. New Toyota N/A water pump. New Toyota oil pick up. New Toyota oil lower sump. New welded crank sprocket. New Toyota oil seals & gaskets. New Toyota thermostat. Whifbitz billet cambelt tensioner. New Toyota tensioner. Racing-Lines thermostatic oil sandwich plate. Lexes oil housing bolt-for oil feed. Sump oil return drilled with Whifbitz oil return fitted. New 2x toyota knock sensors. All new Toyota sensors. New power steering pump & fittings. Vibra-technics fast road engine mounts. Head Ported, polished and match ported and skimmed N/A head. BC 264 cams. BC springs. Ferrea valve stem oil seals. New Toyota valve collets. Toyota retainers. Toyota buckets. HKS adjustable verniers. New Toyota N/A head gasket. Engine Competition lightweight 4.5kg flywheel. ARP flywheel bolts. Whifbitz stage 3 clutch. ARP clutch bolts. Whifbitz blue billet pulley set. Gates racing cam belt. Gates aux belt tensioner. Gates aux belt. SRD steel power steering bracket(aircon pump deleted). New Toyota lower timing cover. Titan motorsport version 2 crank damper. New copper spark plugs. New injector seals. All new Toyota gaskets. All pictures are in my build thread.

Well this weekend hasn’t gone to plan again, I started leak test and after 5minutes noticed the cam belt coming forward and it started to catch the plastic lower timing cover, so switched her off and let her cool down for few hours. Decided to loosen the plastic cover to see what was happening and noticed the ATI damper wasn’t sitting flush against the timing ring that keeps cam belt in position, so thought would remove ATI damper and then refit everything and get it all lined up perfect but unfortunately the pulley tool slipped and snapped piece of rib of ATI pulley. So that’s useless now as will just split belt. After calmed down have decided to purchase the Titan motorsport version 2 crank damper duo to hasn’t got bolts sticking out so will save me buying TT viscous fan, plus have ordered new pulley removal tool to remove damage ATI one. Am well annoyed at myself but lesson learnt make sure have right puller tool for the job!! My fault for rushing as just wanted to complete 30minute running so could finally get turbo ordered, annoyed at myself as the ATI crank damper cost me over £500 but one of them things I guess. Let’s just hope it all goes better next weekend, not an exciting update I know but thought put it up to stop someone else making same mistake losing money.

I used the old injector seals on the two leaking injectors. When see goes for mapping should hopefully be fitting brand new set of 1000cc injectors. And yea the billet tensioner with clear cam cover should really finish of front off engine for sure. Thank you again for the positive feedback, takes a lot to damper my sprits, but it’s been a challenging build and at times it’s really pushed me but she nearly there now, few silly bits to sort. The PHR turbo kit would defiantly be something special over here as not many over hear at all, if funds allow may go that way, but also very tempted to go the SRD manifold in future as that does look stunning. I will be sticking to the W58 box for while want to get FFIM and coil conversion done 1st then at least when do swap box I can increase the power, if it fails will just bolt on a R154 till save for either V160 or a sequential box of some sort haven’t thought to much about that yet, still plenty to keep me busy...lol. I am so looking forward to the 1st drive after mapping will defiantly be special and will soon forgot all the problems had with build I am sure.

Well 1 step forward 2 steps back at moment, managed to get her running Friday evening, my mate sorted it. I hadn’t lined up the dizzy cog. Completely my mistake hold my hands up to that. So to get her running perfect got timing light yesterday so could run her for 30mins to do full leak test. But unfortunately after setting timing and running for 2-3mins started hearing noise so shut her down to check nothing was loose or anything damaged and couldn’t see anything, so fired her up again and could still hear this noise so had look while she was running and found the serpentine belt was rubbing on plastic timing covers, as 1st me and mate couldn’t see why so removed belt and mate spotted that the billet pulleys weren’t in line, in fact they were miles out, used straight piece of metal and the power steering and ATI crank dampner were perfectly in line but water pump was about 8mm and the alternator was about 10mm out. Also noticed that the belt had damaged the brand new timing cover so now have to remove radiator and ATI crank dampner so can check everything and buy another one as don’t want any damage in the cover getting worst in future and possible causing main belt to get damaged or split. Am well annoyed but guess it’s one of the joys of project build. Few pictures showing how far the billet pulleys are out. Going to remove pulleys and measure them with vernier as it doesn’t just make sense to me.

Cheers bud, yea been planning this for years, didn’t ever think would of gone this crazy with the build but definitely be worth it soon and she should be the most powerful 2jz-ge NA-T in group once finally got different gearbox on.

She’s nearly there for sure, just can’t wait to hear the exhaust roar again

Thank you very much, means a lot people liking my build [emoji106]

The build hasn’t gone to plan last couple weeks, 1st fitted rebuild alternator, dampner and gates aux belt. Filled car with fluids and went to fit viscous fan but it was catching the 3 extruding torx bolts from ATI crank pulley. After starting thread as thought had done something wrong turns out when they designed the ATI crank dampner they only designed it for the TT viscous fan so will need to get one of them now, did contact Real Street and they did confirm this, just wish one the sites had this information as looked on all supra sites and they only list the damper for gte engine. 2nd problem was yesterday tried to start her for the 1st time but had two injector seals leaking fuel so stripped inlet and reseated seals and tried again and no leaks, but the car just wouldn’t fire up at all. Checked spark and have spark and fuel but still nothing. Took plugs out yesterday to let engine dry out incase flooded it, checked my dizzy timing today and all good so refitted plugs and still same not firing. So am out of ideas for moment. Hopefully my mate will pop over next weekend see if he can see something I missed and recheck timing and earth points. When started her for 1st time did disconnect ignitor to pump oil round 1st. It’s defiantly been an annoying trying couple of weeks with car but sure will get her started soon, just disappoint as after spending 13k on build was so looking forward to hearing her again.

I didn’t know that and still have my fan shroud so getting TT viscous is properly the best and easiest option.

I did see that and am considering it, now have encountered this problem with fan, don’t know what best option for cooling is..Do I go with TT fan or go electric fans. Want to do what ever option provides the best cooling for engine.

Thank you so much, you have been so helpful. I have just been reading that people remove the 3 torx bolts but I will go for the change fan option I think. Just can’t believe that there is so little information about fitting the ATI to an na engine, at lease now I can start engine as planned next weekend and search out new TT fan. Thanks again for helping me out this been bugging me most of day thinking if I had done something wrong

You are a star [emoji106][emoji106], I have been searching and worrying that the damper wasn’t fitted right, thinking I would have to remove it all again. Any chance you could send us that link be nice read whole thread if there is anymore. So looks like could just need tt fan then.

Thank you for taking picture, I now have funny feeling that my crank damper isn’t seated properly which now means trying to take the thing off again, which is going to be nightmare plus have just filled all my fluids today. Been looking online and some sites saying about a tolerance guide with the ATI crank pulley before fitting but just checked my box it came in and have no tolerance settings for crank key way.

The pulley does look correct but it could be worth taking it off and double checking to be sure, it is a brand new crank aswell so maybe that could be causing it to not sit perfectly right

Hi yea am using the right gates belt. If you look at picture it’s the 3 bolts protruding from the crank damper, catching on my fan blades. The only difference I can think off is, could be because mine is an N/A block and head?? Does anyone know if that would make difference?

Did you have to put and spacers on the stock fan? And it’s an SRD alloy radiator so bigger than stock but that shouldn’t affect fan at all.

Am some advice please as have fitted ATI crank damper to engine build and was doing finishing touches and was planning on still running stock radiator cooling fan, but when fitted fan noticed it was catching on the 3 bolts still out from crank pulley. Question is does anyone run stock fan with ATI crank damper? Or is it a case of when fit crank damper have to then fit electric cooling fans? If fitting electric fans can anyone recommend good kit too use please and best way to wire in fans please?

Tank

1st thing you need to decide is how much your willing to spend on the build and from that work out what power you can achieve. You can get over 500bhp from na bottom end if change compression using thicker head gasket but if manual you will need better gearbox. I started my na-t build with plan of 500bhp but got carried away and 12k later I have fully forged block and built head capable of over 1000bhp easy. It’s all down to what you want to spend