Suprakeith

I will take the extra long throttle please, as fitting SSI inlet to na-t build, pm me payment details she will send funds right away. Also interested in the mk3 idle control valve but unsure if need it as going link g4

It’s an amazing result for sure [emoji4]

Very impressive results for GE engine!! I planning on pushing my GE to over 1200bhp , And do think the R35 coil conversion looks to be a great kit

Oh yes so pleased, thank you for all the help and advice you have given And a big thank you to Mike

Well swapped plug over and boom she cranked over, going to refit stock ecu over weekend and fire her up

Don’t know if this helps but here is picture of plug on mine

Will try that tomorrow evening when get home from work, thank you all help is greatly appreciated

Hi Shane been chating to Cam owner of Tweak’d where got loom from in USA and h told me to back probe this tan/black wire in white plug going to body and should get 12volts on cranking. Did the test and checked continuity 1st to make sure had good earth and when turned key to cranking position was getting 0volts...just thought would update thread with progress just incase you had any other ideas or theory’s

Sweet will do BA3 pin check over weekend as means removing starter motor. When you say pins 3 & 4 guessing you mean 3 & 5 as no pin 4, just tested between 3&5 and have 12.6 volts, also got over 12.6 volts pin 3 to ground and got 0 volts pin 5 to ground. All testing done without key in ignition. Do I need to repeat test with misses holding key in cranking position?

Yes she was holding key in cranking position. And it’s a brand new loom from tweaked in USA and it’s a manual loom and will try have look tonight if weather lets up. Also we did manage to get her cranking taking out the starter relay and bridging it with a fused wire. I am starting to think the new loom is at fault and was also thinking could I test BA3 pin 1 to see if have continuity between that and starter motor connector?

Hi Shane I tested BA3 pin 1 connector and when misses was turning key didn’t get any voltage on pin 1. Did have voltage on pin 3. And also I haven’t got the engine diagnostic port as new loom didn’t come with one, only diagnostic port have is one under drivers side and that doesn’t have a B+ pin.

Wicked thank you for help will make up small bulb circuit and give that try and let you know how get on.

I will try that tomorrow evening and get back to you, will get misses to turn key while I listen, I did look at circuit diagram but don’t understand it that much, have gotten Inazone from forum to check everything with multimeter as he understands them more than me. Would be massive help if one evening you were able to pop over and help and would happily pay you for your time as don’t want to put you out mate. I am frustrated with it as have done the whole build myself more or less and one silly mistake and now can’t get her to fire up now.

Just tired the spare ignition module and no change, but unsure if that unit is working as been in spare box for years. Have rechecked 120fuse and it looks fine but unsure if worth replacing. All I am getting is sound of relays and injectors after release key from turning it too firing position. Any other ideas or suggestions very welcome please

I have checked 120amp fuse, have got spare ignition going to try that next the parts number isn’t same as mine plus have spare coil but unsure if spare coil or ignition are any good, so if no joy may get working one from yourself just to sure as got to get her started soon

No she’s still not turning over with the key

Right still having problems with starting the car and looking for any other help or advice, have removed immobiliser and still no joy at all. Am wondering could it be my ignition control module that’s gone and causing issue? I have found spare in box but think it’s from a Lexus as different part number from mine, just wondering if they are interchangeable? Am slowly running out of ideas and what to do next, only other option I thinking is making brand new loom just to start the car and have fuel pump, starter and ignition on switches on dash

Wicked thank you so much for that

Thank you for that, will give that a try. We checked voltage from fuse box to starter and signal and were both fine, will try this and hopefully will be fine plus will also confirm new loom is correct. Not hearing any relays when arm or immobilise car but can hear the injectors and relays when try to start car

Right peeps am really could do with help and ideas to fix this issue, I will start at the beginning..... Have done forged na-t conversion and car was running fine but has noise from alternator as if something inside loose, so got new alternator and during fitting I didn’t notice trickle charger wires were touching battery and the alternator power cable touched body work and caused short in loom as had little bit smoke. Checked original loom and was damaged so decided to buy new tweaked loom from USA. Fitted new loom and car wasn’t turning over but everything else working fine so Inazone turned up and checked all fuses and relays and have 12volts where should and all earths are good, came to conclusion that could be ecu so fitted new link G4+ ecu and installed a base map. Now when try to start car get clicking noise from the injectors but engine still not turning over, We bridged the starter relay in fuse box and engine turned over like it should. But still getting nothing when turn key to start car..... My next idea is too remove dash and remove immobiliser from loom and check any damage to wires behind dash and try again, my thinking is as now know original ecu is damaged as was not getting any noise or anything from that when tried to start car, maybe the short has damaged immobiliser aswell as ecu. Also used the link software on laptop and am getting zero fault codes. So any ideas of what problem could be causing car not to turn over would be massive help please?

I’ve done this few times and it can be right pain if the two bolts are seized on. I found using ratchet spanner loads easier than using socket. One tip I found is to undo the power cable and wire connector first.

I just hope this happens and the forum does so forward, as remember speaking to Banners couple years ago at Suprapod and him saying forum was getting refresh with new mods and couple years later it’s still the same and less people using forum. Agree need to stop NA bashing on forum as want to have as many active members as possible, and for people to get on and come to events.

I am just waiting to here back from Grant as he pm’ed me yesterday about generator, if he changes mind your next on list bud as sooner put the way better for me

Collection only from Peterborough. Partners dad old generator from his valet business work van. Working good just bit noisey and needs earthing strap fitted as was attached to work van. About 9 years old and even has fuel in. Generator was stripped and rebuilt three years ago, is duo a service. Don’t want any thing for it just needs collecting

Thank you so much for your help, your a diamond. That’s intresting about connector not being na or tt as it’s always been on old loom, will defiantly look into that and may check with bloke at Toyota parts desk. Also just realised that ge ignition plug connects to grey box on ignition bracket, haven’t clue what it’s for at all.