Scott

One quick question... when I'm figuring out the exact TDC of the piston... is that OK to do with the cambelt on? Just remove the plugs to stop pressure buildup? I'll be able to knock something up no bother Cheers

The info I posted was just a snippet. This is everything they sent.. Camshaft Specification Card Make Model Part Number Description Toy 2JZ-GTE 6030S1 Intake Exhaust Advertised Duration 269 269 Peak Lift .388" .390" Valve Clearance 0.010" 0.012" Rocker Ratio 1 1 Valve Lift (net) .378" .378" Duration @ .040" Valve Lift 228 232 LSA Centerline @ Peak Lift 108 ATDC 114 BTDC 111 Intake Intake Exhaust Exhaust Opens Closes Opens Closes Cam Timing @ .040" Valve lift 6 BTDC 42 ABDC 50 BBDC 2 ATDC Thanks for the info mate. I'll most likely be in touch next week

I think I'm ok but having never done this I'll be taking every precaution. I got the camcard sent over from GSC. Summarising... I want the intake opening at 6 degrees before TDC I want the intake closing at 42 degrees after BDC Exhaust opening at 50 degrees before BDC Exhaust closing at 2 degrees after TDC What is classed as the valve opening and closing though Chris? I take it it's 5 or 10 thou or something? I was thinking about dropping the DTI into the spark plug hole to find the proper TDC, possibly a little crude though lol.

Like it freaky do you

Just gave it a quick blow over with a rattler

Starting to get things back together. Unfortunately I put the allen key into the wrong side of the cambelt tensioner so I'm having to wait till I get back to work to sort it out (no vice in the house). I couldn't believe how tight the cambelt is going on, even with the tensioner off it was tricky getting the fecker on. Anyway, once back at work I'll be borrowing a DTI and getting the tensioner fitted ready to sort out the timing. Looking forward to that part, should be really interesting As I had pretty much reached a dead end for now I then moved onto fitting the power steering cooler & oil cooler. They are in mock up positions for now.

Has to be to post in this section

Yeah I'm going to have a play at that end. I think I have a bit of space to move it around, the intercooler pipe is a pain. I'm not really going to know for certain until I'm ready to mount the IC back in unfortunately.

I did have a look at doing it that way but I can't see any way of cramming it all in lol. The fusebox is taking up loads of space and where my intercooler piping goes through would end up obstructed.

I'm in the middle of sorting out my power steering and oil coolers. I've mounted them temporarily and I just want to ask if anyone can see any issues with my choices before I settle with them. Never having done anything like this I'm kind of winging it, unfortunately this means it's possible there could be some things I've overlooked.

There's your problem right there bud No restrictor ring required on your setup. Remember to drop the gain before taking it for a run

There are definitely some crackers. Sometimes I start looking for cameras and don't stop until they ask what I'm doing, they generally aren't too happy when I say. I get the "Subaru" one all the time. There was one time I felt I was in a comedy sketch. We get fuel deliveries in work and I'm responsible for checking the seals etc etc. The delivery takes about 45 mins so to be polite I generally stand and chat with the driver. We got to talking about cars one day and he was telling me all about his new car and how he works on all his cars. I explained that I do the same and that I was getting ready to start a little project. It was at this point the following happened: Driver - So what do you drive? Me - A Supra Driver - Ahh I love scoobies. me - No, it's a Supra. Driver - Yeah, the Imprezas.... my mate had one too. Me - No, it's a S-U-P-R-A Driver *confused looking* - Yeah, the rally car. Me - No, it's not a Subaru Impreza, it's a Toyota Supra Driver - 2.0L Turbo? Me - 3.0L Twin Turbo Driver - Cool.. AWD? Me - RWD Driver - Are you sure? Me - Almost positive. Driver - Don't think I've seen one of those ones. At that point I had to get my phone out and google a "scoobeh" and compare the picture to one on my phone. Driver - Ahh, I don't think I know them. Me (in my head) - Really? You think? Unbelievable. I tend to steer the conversation towards kittens and the like when he is in now.

Told you

Make sure you're standing near a solid object when you get the price

It doesn't have to be any particular brand. I dare say some will be better than others for longevity but as long as you get long life it should do what it says on the tin. The most important thing is that it's ethylene glycol as far as I know. Halfords is one that I know is the correct blend hence why I usually choose it. Colour doesn't matter although I would suggest flushing out the system before changing brands/colours as the ingredients might be slightly different.

The 180 figure is what I remember it being, call it an educated guess if you like, it will be around that sort of level though. I even gave 200hp as a reference as the stock N/A is 220 and of course with an intercooler and less compression in there it's going to make less power as an N/A. 1.3bar with no headwork. The only way the VE would change is if something in the head changed. If the valves, cams and ports are all stock then the maximum potential VE will remain constant. In order to have the VE at 100% you would probably need to remove the manifold alltogether so that there was next to no vac pressure (As an N/A the suction from the pistons pulling in the air, and the restriction from the manifold and pipework, would mean the air going into the chamber would be under a slight vacuum). There are loads of supras over 600hp running nowhere near 2bar of boost. I think the going rate for around 600hp is 1.5bar. The bigger turbos will coast 600hp though, I wouldn't be surprised to see a few of the bigger ones easily cracking 600hp at 1.0bar of boost. Have a look around at the various projects and you will see what figures are achieved and at what boost levels. For the most part the cams is the only thing that changes in the head until going onto serious modifications. I've upgraded my valve springs, retainers and cams. I'm looking for around 700hp at around 1.6-1.7 bar of boost.

How is it doing this though? The head hasn't been touched, the intake is stock. How is it going from 180hp to 280hp? Are you telling me that adding an intercooler and an exhaust would give an N/A an 80hp increase? Let the boys know, they'll snap your hand off mate.

Noone local got an MR2 tubby? You could point it out, it says it on the plaque

no I'm not kidding. adding an intercooler to an na would give less power, throwing on an exhaust does very little. Adding a large intercooler only aids a turbo car by allowing the VE to remain as high as possible, it cannot increase it. You are killing your own argument here as you don't seem to understand what you are talking about. fitting a huge 1000hp exhaust, inlet manifold and intercooler would not have any major effect on an N/A. The only reason for doing so when upgrading the turbo is so that the flow can be free allowing the increase. According to your theory you can't increase more the 100% of the stock power per 1.0 bar. in reality, according to your theory, it would actually be less as the car would be slightly more restrictive and free flowing. not taking these restrictions into account allows for the best possible scenario...again this is according to your theory. Therefor the absolute best you could manage with the head not being ported or modified is 600hp at 2.0bar. It would actually brought less in reality due to said restraints. How are you not seeing how ridiculous that is? There are 600hp cars running 1.3 bar on 67mm turbos fgs.

So you're saying there are no 600hp supras running less than 2.0 bar?

It almost does. It says "Twin Entry Turbo". Basically twin scroll. A lot of people seem to think this means 2 turbos.

You aren't listening to sense though bud. Lets say that a GTE makes 200hp as an N/A (It's a nice round figure and it won't be THAT far off the truth). Going by your theory in order to make 600hp the turbo will need to produce 3 times the amount of atomospheric pressure. If we take the going rate as around 1.0bar that would mean that 2.0bar of positive pressure would be required. This would then mean that any Supra running 600+ horsepower is running 2.0bar + pressure. In order to hit 1000hp you would need 5 times the atomospheric pressure, therefor JP and everyone in the US must be running 4bar+. There are some nice fast Supras in Sweden, what is the most powerful one you know of still running as a 3.0L, how much power is it making and at what boost level is it making it at? I honestly can't put it any plainer than that, it's staring you straight in the face bud.

Idol bud

The TT intake temperature will most likely be higher than an N/A as the turbo will be heating the air. Granted the intercooler will drop this temperature but I don't know how much by. This is the reason the stock TTs aren't very efficient at higher boost levels, they heat the air way too much. Anyway, as I said... I can't explain to you how it works. I can only present you with the facts. 1. Do you agree a 2JZ-GTE running 1.0bar with the stock turbos will hit around 380hp when everything is healthy? 2. Do you agree that fitting a larger and more efficient single turbo would see more than 380hp at 1.0bar with no other intake changes? 3. Do you realise that the air/fuel mix is completely different between an N/A and a forced induction setup?

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