Scott

I've never seen another one of these and I can't find any threads on here relating to them so I can only assume it's ridiculously rare. When I first picked it up I felt it was hardly there so I decided to weigh it and it's under 1kg fully assembled. I'm after £75 posted in the UK.

11.5j ET0 rears? You won't have a hope of getting them on bud. You're also going to want 295 rears minimum on an 11.5 rim.

That sounds about normal then regarding the speed. The reason it isn't miles out is probably down to the convertor changing between kms to miles, if you didn't have the big tyres etc it would probalby be miles out lol. Mine isn't too bad, at around 80 on the speedo I'm 74 on the GPS. I've seen a few of ridiculously miles out though, much like your red one.

Yeah, that's what I would expect. Changing the wheels/tyres shouldn't make any difference to what the RPM vs Speed reads, as the speed comes from the gearbox as far as I know. If the engine is revving at 2000rpm then the gearbox will be spinning and showing xx mph depending on gear. You could take the wheels off and this would still be the case so the tyres aren't having any effect on the ratio between your Tacho and your speedo. Where they are making the difference is to your actual speed rather than indicated. It's likely that even as stock at 70mph on the speedo the tacho will be around the same as you have on your image. The major difference is that your actual speed is above 70 wheras with stock it will be mid 60s.

I was always under the impression that a speedo would underread with larger tyres on, unless your speedo has been re-calibrated to take account of different gearing/tyres?

Oh, and... http://www.powerhouseracing.com/merchant/gallery/waynemain.png

Supradibbs

I agree with this part, I've never said anything to the contrary. The only variation I would say is that atmospheric is generally under 1.0bar and the intake will be slightly under atmospheric due to pulling a vacuum. But other than that yeah. My point is based on facts with cars that actually exist, the figures that they have made and the comparison between being stock and being single turbo. Your whole argument has been based on the engine power as an N/A saying that the N/A power of the engine must be increasing wildly (350+hp mentioned). My argument is that this is impossible and that even with the wildest of headwork and CR the maximum made has been 300hp. The stock turbos represent the worst efficiency, the larger ones represent the best efficiency. My point is that with a larger single turbo a Supra can make just under 600hp at 1.3bar. How it does this I cannot say. The headwork involved to get 700hp from 1.6bar isn't radical at all and won't make for a 300hp N/A. I'm aiming for 700hp at around 1.6bar with cams & springs.... that's it. I can only guess that it's down to the timing advance thanks to the higher AFRs. I honestly don't have the answer, I can only tell you what type of power is running around the streets right now and state that it's not down to the N/A power of the engine near doubling. I know it would change the VE and make it better, but it won't make it better than 100% which is what the argument has all been about. The VE with the stock turbos will be pretty bad, but the VE that the engine is capable of as an N/A surely has to be 100%? If you removed all manifolds would the engine not be running to it's maximum potential VE? Adding in the N/A manifolds drops it due to flow restrictions, let's say to 90%, adding in the TT manifolds & Setup drops it to say 80%. All guess work of course, it's just how I'm trying to get my head round it. Have you been following this Dan? Would you agree that if JP took the turbo off of his car he would be driving a 400hp N/A GTE?

Ok.. let me try this again. Let's try your theory one more time and use only KNOWN Stock turbo figures. UK/Euro spec supra running 0.7bar (bone stock) generates 320hp. This has been backed up on SRR in the UK. Going by your theory if I divide 320 by 1.7 I will get the approx "N/A" power of the UK spec GTE. 320hp/1.7 = 188hp. As you can see we are still floating around my initial guestimate. Now, bearing that in mind, in order to hit 400hp the boost would need to be set to 1.1bar. Again, this is going by your theory and figures hit on SRR would agree. Where the argument falls down is that the only reason these figures fall into place for your theory is because of how badly inefficient the stock turbos actually are. You can take off the stock turbos, replace them with a much more efficient, incredibly small single and STILL hit exactly the same figures with FAR less boost (400 at 0.6bar is easy). Can you not see where I am coming from here? I haven't moved onto any single turbo figures in this part of my case as I just don't need to and I feel it may be clouding things. The stock setup is ancient and inefficient. Compared to modern day turbos they are as efficient as an industrial hairdryer. Surely you understand that the stock turbos are not in any way efficient. They are not even efficient at their most efficient range compared to new turbos. If they were 100% efficient 100% of the time then your theory would be 100% on the money. I feel I have now exhausted my side of the argument. There is only so many ways you can type the same thing and if you can't see my point now there is really nothing else I can say. It's been interesting though

Of course I would, very worthy cause However, I couldn't grow a beard lol. I don't have the beardstrength for that. Rather than shaving I just get the cat to lick it off.

The pressure isn't changing in my examples bud. The only thing that is changing each time is the tempearture of the charge. The bigger the turbo the more efficient it is at generating boost once it gets going. The stock tubbys pushing 1.3bar are at the end off their puff and the air temp will be as high as can be allowed to keep the AFRs & EGTs in check. With the larger turbo, and larger still turbo, it's more efficient and the temperature is dropping hence more molecules of air in the volume leading to bigger bangs. The choke shouldn't be an issue as the volume & pressure of air remains the same, it's the density that is changing.

Tells you on the front page bud

So you think 2000 * £2 = £1000?

Just to add here... The GTE with a bone stock block and head can hit 430hp at 1.3bar of boost. If your theory was correct then this would put the power at 186hp as an N/A? (I think that's correct anyway). Now, this I could agree with. From here, bolt on a precision 6765DBB and turn the boost up to 1.3bar with only bolt on mods... absolutely no headwork whatsoever, and the 430hp will change to just under 600hp. This would mean that the N/A power of the same engine would be said to be 260hp. Ok, let's say that is the case. From here, bolt on a GT45 turbo and turn the boost up to 1.3bar with, again, only bolt on mods....again no headwork, and the 600hp will be blown to bits. I can't actually put forward a power figure for the above as I don't think anyone has bolted a GT45 to a 2JZ without changing the cams to raise the rev limit and make it more useable, headwork to deal with the increased flow and probably most of the bottom end to deal with the power. Unfortunately from this point (GT45) my argument is only theory due to the above never happening but I am 100% sure it would be the case. The 600hp would be blown out of the water. As an example there is a 2JZ on youtube making over 900hp at 1.4bar, it has cams etc though. Lets say, just to be fair, that the GT45 would make 750hp on a stock setup at 1.3bar. This would mean the N/A power of the stock GTE would be 326hp. At this point, without any modifications whatsoever to the engine head or the engine block, it has now surpassed the power of a stock GTE WITH stock twin turbos running 0.7bar of boost. I think everyone can agree this is completely impossible.

You're relatively new here but you will pick up more as time goes on. The guys on here have tried for years to push the 2JZ-GE engine and most end up failing. The only cost effective way to get any power from the GE is to bolt on a turbo or throw nos at it. I think the highest power seen at SRR (our yardstick) is 232hp. You have to remember that this is a GE engine with higher compression and less piping than a GTE so the GTE would be far less even with loads of free flowing supporting mods. In the US I know of at least one highly modified GE engine running around 300hp. It took an insane amount of headwork to get that power though, everyting ported/polished, re-valved etc, etc. The money thrown at it was an excercise to show what could be done as there is no way it was more cost effective than a good single setup. So... bearing the above in mind... it is impossible for the GTE engine to be producing anywhere near the figures you claim they must. The engine just isn't capable of doing it. Unbolting the turbos from the block and putting on a good tubular exhaust manifold would only see the same %age gains as are got on the GE engines..... which again are minimal. 10-15hp is the maximum gain to be had (even that is me being generous) with regards to bolt on breathing mods. I guess that just goes to show how well Toyota engineered the engine in the first place. There isn't a LOT to be had without extensive modification.

Quite the mathematician aren't you

I've read what you are saying, and I understand where you are drawing your conclusions from. However, I don't understand all the background to what you are saying and whether it is all correct. The only thing I can catagorically say is that there are plenty of 2JZ engines that haven't been oversized running over 1000hp. None of these cars are 400hp N/A engines, they will be a bit more than a stock N/A thanks to the headwork that they have done but 400hp is miles away from the reality. Totally stock 2JZ engines produce 600hp with relative ease. You can hit 600hp without even adding cams nowadays and the power can be hit at relatively low boost levels, 1.3 has been done on this forum alone. The only difference I can think of that is generally across the board would be a slight RPM increase. I think most people would be hitting 7k RPM rather than stock for those type of figures. 8K+ is generally for built engines with seriously high power. It's a never ending roundabout that we have been on, you have your theory behind your thinking and I have mine. At the end of the day there are 100s of cars proving that your theory is flawed somewhere, I'm not the person to point out where though as I'm not THAT interested in where the power comes from.... I'm only really interested in producing it

Cancer Research UK.

Raise a grand for charity and I'll do it

I can't think of any situation where it wouldn't be safe. Yeah it'll bend if you pull it hard enough, and easier than genuine makes, but I can't really think of any time that would be a problem. In fact, in a smash I'd be greatful of that give

It is the same as mine, I bought it knowing fine well it was fake though I'll spend real money once I settle on a style

Give or take 600/1.250

Ahh, pretty sure that's an "option" wheel bud, not an "optian"

That's the speed limiter mate. The reason it's 120 is because the speedo is out

Having the lift at TDC would be easier also and leave less space for error. I can only ask the question