Chris and Alana

Just read this again, do you get 2 of the coolers in pic 1 for that price as well? I am off to work now back at 5ish, is there any chance I could have first refusal until then if not I understand. Thanks again.

Hi Kranz, I am very interested in this. Does it come with everything needed to fit? Is it thermostatically controlled or does that not matter with the auto fluid? Also would the stock auto cooler on the bottom of the rad have to still be used? If it can be by-passed I would like to run my PAS fluid through it and use this kit just for the auto box (if its possible) Thanks in advance.

you have a PM

Just to add, I had a trip up to scotland this weekend 180miles both ways, I was trying to keep off the accelerator but over 180miles it was pretty difficult Now on the way up the car seemed to boost correctly which was good but I only floored it several times. Now on the way back I decided to try it a little more and for the first 130miles or so it would only boost to 10psi, now I tried to listen to the exhaust note changing at 4000rpm and did seem to change slightly louder and deeper but the boost gauge would still read 10psi I then got stuck behind traffic for 5miles or so and when the dual carridge way came I put my foot down and I had boost back, 1.1bar and it stayed like that the rest of the way home. Now even though I had full boost the felt a little slugish and Im sure I could here a hissing noise with the window down. Could this simply be a split in a hose, I have checked all of the vacuum hoses except the ones behind the engine because I cant reach them but I am yet to check all the actuator and the intercooler plumbing. This is doing my head in it seems to be one problem after another. Iv just spent over £1k fixing the suspension last month and now this, I just want to enjoy the bloody car before the winter.

The idea was to have the car as a toy as from next year (Im buying another car as a daily) and use the supra in the summer months as a road car but also be able to cope with the odd track day. We have always wanted to explore the potential of the car in a 'safe' environment and learn how to drive the thing properly. From searching older threads I found that an addidinal PAS cooler is a very good idea for track use but then I read an old post by Chris Wilson saying that you can use the existing auto cooler on the bottom of the rad as a PAS cooler. Being an auto, I read that heat is the worst enemy of the autobox and although it would be and is fine (had no probs so far but I intent to fit some temp gauges in the future) on the road I would feel much better with an auto transmission cooler for track use and an oil cooler for the same reason. As for the SMIC, I have ducted that to the left had hole (If your looking at the bumper) using the existing ducting and other material so I feel this should be just as good as stock.

Right, I have found that I can use the standard auto transmission cooler built into the bottom of the rad as a PAS cooler, I take it this will give adequate cooling for the odd track day, well once I have ducted the rad to my top secret front? I now have the option of keeping the SMIC (as there is one less cooler to worry about) and getting an oil cooler and a seperate auto transmission cooler. Would it be ok to have one behind the other in one of the side vents (as my SMIC is in the other) both ducted correctly of course.

Hi guy's, I have been looking into maybe getting a FMIC to free up space at each side vent for oil cooler's (engine oil, auto fluid, PAS) I have been doing some searching and have read that if you fit a FMIC to an auto you need to move the standard PAS cooler, is this true of all kits or can it stay where it is? Also I have read that the standard auto box cooler is in the way Although I want to run seperate coolers for these anyway I simply dont have the funds to do it all at once and was going to gradually do it over the winter months. Second thing I was wanting to know is if I need to run a thermostat to control an Auto box cooler and PAS cooler? I know it is important to run one on the engine oil cooler but I am not sure about the auto box and PAS cooler. Also if someone could be so kind to educate me into where you would plumb an auto cooler and PAS cooler into (as I would like to have a go myself) it would be appriciated

Iv been told (when I was getting my bushes checked for noise) that if you get a knock under acceleration it could very well be the bushes for the diff mounts. Mine turned out to be the shocks that were buggered but mine only happened when I went over a bump.

Is that the actuator that is connected to the EGCV vsv, kind of underneath the turbos? If so, I am going to test this with a foot pump to see if it moves with pressure (under 7psi I believe is about right but correct me if I am wrong) Is there a third actuator? I know it might be a little hard to say but someone with more knowledge than me might be able to answer - will any harm be done if I put my foot down with this problem? I kind of need to to test if it is working or not after I have done things (poked about with a stick ect) but dont want to blow the tubbies in the proces.

oh, how do I make sure that the pressure tank is opperating correctly so I can eliminate this?

I didnt mean anything bad by this lol, I just ment that you live very far from me but I appriciated the offer. (sorry if I looked like something else )

Right, Iv had the IACV vsv off and done the checks that Andy T has put up. All the checks were fine except when I first took it off (it was quite hot) the resistance read 1.126mega ohms which is alot but when it had cooled it read 48ish ohms (more normal) I measured it quite alot of times and as is it was cooling it started reading in the kilo ohms until it finally read normal. Could it be possible that something in the vsv has spat the dummy and when it gets hot (engine bay temps?) that it stops working? While I was under the bonnet I tested the Actuator that is connected to the IACV by attatching a foot pump and gently adding pressure, it opened and closed smoothly every time so I think this is fine. I also tested the EGBV vsv (as it was easy to remove) and this also seemed fine. It opened when I added 12v across it but I forgot to take a resistance reading. Once I had put everything back together I took a trip to my parents house (approx 2miles away) and opened her up 2-3 times and everything worked fine. there was a slight pause at 3500-4000rpm and then the second turbo came online and it produced 1.1ish bar, happy days. Now on my way home after a 10min stop at my parents I opened her up again and the problem was back, it boosted to approx 10psi on first turbo, there seemed to be a pause at 3500-4000rpm and then when I should get 1.1bar it stayed on 10-11psi. I tried taking my foot off the accelerator and re-applying several times but it made no difference, it stayed at 10-11psi This is annoying now and I am a little bothered about trying the right foot after fiddling with something incase I blow No.1 tubbie (as in Ian's thread-problem 1) I dont think this is related to the pressure tank as when I released one of the hoses on the IACV vsv it released a load of pressure so I figured the hoses between the tank and the actuator must be intact. I am now stuck in which direction to go in. The only things I didnt check were the EGCV and actuator as they were a little harder to get too and daylight was dissapearing. Also from Ians thread if these were playing up the car would have completely different symptoms.

Thanks for that I forgot about that thread. I thought the EBC when turned off left the airways open through the solenoid allowing the wastegate to open and keeping boost to standard pressure (or what ever the RR allows to happen) and when turned on does what you have explained to increase boost. The solenoid on the EBC I have takes the place of the standard Wastegate vsv. Thanks for offering your help though, appriciated (even though your many moons away) No, it just happens randomly, I did have a problem over a year ago with boost doing what you have suggested and it turned out my wastegate vsv was bust. Once replaced it worked fine until now but this problem has different symptoms. It seems very similar if not exactly the same to 'problem 1' in Ians guide (link in second post) I have checked the hoses to and from the IACV vsv but they are fine. I will remove the vsv as soon as I can (tonight hopefully) and run 12v across it to see if it opens, hopefully it wont Does anyone know if you can check to see if the IACV actuator is working? If so what test's can be done? Thanks for the help so far guy's.

Hi guy's and girls, I have done a quick search but not found the answer to my problem (however I will continue to search ) but for now if anyone could help it would be appreciated. The car - first de-cat, FCD, Blitz boost controller, cat back exhaust, other supporting BPU mods. Right, I seem to have developed an issue with boost in the last 2-3days which is quite annoying. When I put my foot down the first turbo produces around 9-10psi (which is normal) and when it reaches 3500-4000 I can hear the exhaust note change as usual but the boost reads 11ish psi on the gauge and 0.78bar on the boost controller which is about stock levels, however I have been running 1.1ish bar for over a year now This fault is intermittent as sometimes it will still produce 1.1bar but most the time it wont (this is with the boost controller turned off) I did turn the boost controller up to see what would happen and the boost did increase slightly but way off what it should be. Could this be a boost leak? If it was why would the first turbo be unaffected?

First-sorry I dont have any pics to put up yet but he is a very lovely little dog. We took him off a person we know to save him going to the dog shelter but we have found out the hard way that we simply dont have the time for such a lively dog. He is not fully house trained and needs someone around all the time. He is black and white, very playfull, good with kids and other dogs. We feel its cruel to keep him as we both work 5-6days a week but cannot bring ourselves to take him to the dog shelter (as this is the reason we took him in the first place) He is such a cute little thing and would be brilliant dog for someone who has the time, patients and room to train and look after him. Bad bits are:- The house training part (trying to do this at the mo) and he cries and sobs at night if he cant be on the bed with you (both of these we were not told about and it has became too much for us) Anyway, if anyone wants him or knows someone who would like him please let me know. I have him staying at my parents house at the moment beause we both work through the week and feel it cruel to lock him away on his own but at the same time feel bad for dragging my parents into it. He really needs a good home.

I have no idea how good a design this is (end tanks, core design etc) but it does look the part for £200. I have also been interested in a front-mount to free up space at each side duct for some oil coolers. Subscribed

Well my fiance always drives the sup to her work everyday and when we both go out its always a race to see who gets the keys first.

Just so I know what Im doing if I cant get it back to the garage anytime soon, are the lower control arm bolts I need to loosen the ones that connect this arm (4th post) http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=85152&highlight=lower+control+arm

Thanks guy's, I'll get it done asap, good to know whats wrong with it but hope no damage has been done Thanks again

Thanks very much guy's ( CW as knowledgable as ever ) So would this be a case of get the car on a ramp and loosen the bolts for the lower control arm (Front and rear?) and then re-tighten?

Well, thats exactly how I feel after driving it, odd how it lifts the car when its supposed to drop it 10mm or so. It does drive much better, the front doesnt dip half as much with heavy braking and it seems more level in corners even though it is higher. Although anything would feel better than the standard black things I had on as three of them were leaking (one had gone completetly )but still, I do feel an improvement. Does anyone know why it would raise the ride height then? Do you think putting my old springs back on would bring the lower ride height back even though they are supposed to be 10mm higher? I'm confused

Hi guy's, I have just had my standard black shocks changed for the standard bilsteins and changed the springs for a lower mileage set from a 99 vvti, I also put new dust covers on. When I got the car back it's actually sitting about 20mm or so higher at the rear and about 10mm higher at the front than before, what would cause this? I know shocks dont alter height, the springs were from a set of bilsteins so should be at least the same height (read they should be 10mm lower and stiffer) the only thing I can think of is that with the new dust covers on (I beleive the springs actually sit on them) have caused the increased ride height as the old ones were pretty well squashed. What do you guy's think? The springs are on the right way round as wel.

It didnt really make any different noises but when I put my foot down and the box dropped a gear, it should have brought tubbie 2 online but sometimes nothing, just a poor 4psi (or close to from what I remember) of boost. I found it especially annoying when overtaking on a carridge-way when you expected power there was none. I took the vsv's off one by one and ran 12v across them while blowing down one of the ports to see if they opened. The only one that didnt open was the wastegate vsv. I got one for £33 second hand, tried it to see if it opened when it arrived (which it did) fitted it and the problem has never came back

I had this problem, it done my head in but it turned out to be a bust wategate vsv, £33 later and all was good

Do you still have the standard front bumper? is it in good condition? if so, how much you after?