Chris and Alana

that is one ugly car

Thanks for the kind comments guy's I was lucky to get some photos at all over the weekend with all the bad weather. I colleceted some bits second hand from guy's on here and also bought some new bits from colsoop. The dump valve took the place of the standard valve, it came as kit designed to sit there.

IMG]http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh1/chris1984_21/supra2-1.jpg[/img]

Im not very good with a camera but I bought a new one a little while ago and stopped at a layby in scotland (near loch lomand) and took a couple pics of the car. Unfortunatly I didnt go to the loch but maybe next time. Anyway what do you think? IMG]http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh1/chris1984_21/supra2-1.jpg[/img] IMG]http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh1/chris1984_21/supra3.jpg[/img] And a couple of the engine bay IMG]http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh1/chris1984_21/newpics006.jpg[/img]

Exactly what I thought when I looked at the pics. Take the advise and loose the ugly bits, the car could be really nice indeed but it just looks like you didnt know when to stop put a stock or TRD spoiler on, deff remove the headlight covers and save yourself some money and just put the stock bonnet on, there is no need for any vents im affraid. After that it will look much much better and appeal to many more people. Good luck.

I have a first decat, kept the original second cat and have a nur spec R and I found it overboosted to 1.3+ bar. The second cat doesnt seem very restrictive at all from my experiance so it may be worth experimenting with the stock cat to start with rather than forking out 350+ on a sports cat. I was/am going to use a rr with the stock second cat to restrict boost to 0.8-0.9 bar (instead of 1.2bar as it is now) and then use an EBC to increase boost as desired just like your idea but hopefully without the additional cost

I have recently had some mechanical work done by Formula 1 in Newcastle http://www.theformulaonewebsite.co.uk/2722/form1.htm and I must say they are brilliant. If you live in the north east area and need some work done you couldn’t go wrong. The Forman 'Chris' was very helpful and very approachable. I gave them a phone call to enquire about some work and he was very knowledgeable (reminded me of are fellow guru Chris Wilson) I went down to the garage and he showed me where the work was going to be done, which I must admit was immaculate, and what needed doing. He also advised me on what parts to buy (as I wanted to supply my own) and it all went very smoothly. These guy's do allot of work on high end cars such as Ferrari, Porsche, Lambo ect and have a nice selection of cars in there showroom too. Anyway, I was very impressed and I would definitely use their services again and thought they would be worth mentioning to you lot.

Apologies for bringing yet another restrictor ring question to the forum but I would just like to ask before I do it. I have a first decat and a nur spec R (Iv kept the second cat on the car) and still require a restrictor ring. Now I recently repaired a boost leak but I now create 1.1 - 1.2bar boost, now this wouldn’t normally be a problem but I also have an EBC so I would like to know if any harm would come if I used a restrictor ring that held boost back to stock levels or there abouts (0.8-0.9bar maybe) and then used my EBC to increase to a max of 1.2bar for those spirited moments. I think what I’m trying to ask here is would reducing the boost as far as stock with a restrictor ring do any harm to the engine? And then with so much restriction would any harm come to increasing to 1.2bar now and again? Thanks for any help guy's

I may be interested, can they do auto's?

As in the title really. I have 2L of castrol ATF TQ D3 to hand and was wondering if this is ok to use as a refresh (replace the 2L that will come out of the sump). Iv read that toyota type 4 is the stuff to use but the guy's at toyota said they had none (when I went earlier) and that any dextron 3 will do. Chris

I have fitted a 1st decat pipe and kept the second cat with a blitz nur spec R exhaust. It's a silimar set up to your own and I found that I did need a restrictor ring to reduce boost. However, if you buy a restrictor ring that has a certain diameter hole to 'normally' control boost to 1bar or 1.2bar you will probably find (like me) that you will need a larger diamater hole in the rr because of the restriction of the cat, it's a pain to get right and took me hours It's just a vase of trial and error. It doesnt really matter where in the exhaust system you put the restrictor ring, alot of people like to put it inbetween the first decat and second decat/or cat, or between the second de cat/cat and the exhaust system. I however found it much easier to place it between the back box section of the exhaust and the middle section that then connects to the second cat, it's alot easier to get too than any other point when your doing it on the drive Oh... and the cat temp sensor can just be cable tied out the way. I have read that if you cut it off you will have the warning light on constantly so that could be a pain. Hope that helps. Chris

Any chance I can buy this bit (in the pic) seperatly please. If so how much?

Thanks very much torque monster Good bit of usefull info

I was just wondering what would happen if you were unlucky enough to be stopped by the police and were found to fail a roadside emissions test because you took the cats off. I’m just wondering if it is worth the hassle removing my second cat. I still need a restrictor ring to keep boost down to 1.2bar so it cant be too restrictive, I also guessed it's better to keep EGT's down help responsiveness. I would also like somewhere to put a wideband sensor and in the second decat seems to be the best place. Anyway, if there are serious penalties for removing all cats then I think I will live with my current set up.

Thanks very much

I have a EBC and a machanical boost gauge and I used a T peice just behind the dash and made the EBC connection as short as possible, In theory this will just add another foot or so to the vacuum line but I dont think it makes much difference to be honest. I couldnt comment on how accurate the two are because the EBC reads in bar (well that kg/something or other which is almost exactly the same as bar) and my boost gauge reads in PSI.

Also do you have the large plastic peice in the boot that sits just behind the rear lights (if you know what I mean) Mine has a big split in it:( I think it was from when they installed the alarm and never told me

Do you have the surround for the auto and an ash tray in good condition. Mine is a little worn

have a look at this link http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=35926 it explains a lot and has pic's of various components and where they are located. The solenoid for the boost controller basically takes the place of the wategate vsv (which you will find in the link) you will need to plug 2 points. One is the bottom of the wategate actuator and the other is where the hose from the wategate vsv goes upto the black rigid vacum lines to the left of the spark plug cover. (following the hose you cant miss it)

This should help fitting Greddy profec spec 2.pdf

I managed to get a second hand one from some kind soul from this site. cost me £33 inc delivery I beleive they are quite expensive new though. If it turns out to be a broke wategate vsv you could either replace it or buy an electronic boost controller that takes the place of the wastegate vsv.

I had a problem where the second turbo would sometimes decide it didnt want to work. Turned out to be a bust wategate vsv. If you know where your looking and are confidant removing the little buggers blow down one end of the vsv and run 12v through it and it should open. If it doesnt it's broke. You can also do resistance checks across the terminals etc witha multimeter but running 12v through it should do.

Hi guy's I was wondering if any traders (or anyone that has one) could give a price on a new water pump for my 93 GZ TT. Thanks.

Top man:salute: I have had so much bother getting one. I'll take it Just to make sure, I take it all barrels are the same (obviously different keys) but as for fitting, central locking etc? If so how would you like payed?