Krister

Theres a user on Supraforums calles SKS who road races alot. He had the standard UK/US brake setup and he changed to K-Sport fronts and he said it was a great upgrade.

Very inspirational, nice work. Now give it a quick polish to blend it more to your engine bay.

Nice one Jarno

1.7 bar with MAP ECU 2? Gorgeous car.

Any pics of the crack? Funny thing that every body always say that the China / Ebay manifolds are the ones that cracks, but I've read several HKS and GReddy manifold crack and not a single china Supra manifold. Full race is considered to be one of the best manifolds, but very expensive. I'm sure a Boostlogic or Sound Performance will be also good.

Did you just spray paint the wheels with a rattle can?

I have a used OEM Supra Carbon fiber steering wheel with an airbag that I've been thinking of selling. What do you guys reccon is a fair price to ask for one? I'd say the condition is 9.5/10. MVP is selling them new with airbag for $1500 (~£1000).

Cost depends alot if you can shopping around or do some work yourself. We just had this discussion on our local forum. Here's how I would do it: (I used Scott M's list as a base) Custom Single kit: Turbo £800 Ebay manifold £200 Ebay wastegate £150 or Tial £300 Custom downpipe £300 Custom oil lines £100 ECU & Mapping Used AEM EMS £900 Mapping: Learn to do it yourseld, or have it mapped. Free or around £400 or ~450-500hp setup: Chipped OEM Ecu like SARD or Mine's + Apexi S-AFC (~£400 + cheaper mapping) Fuel UK 550's, £120 Fuel pump, Walbro or UK spec Denso, £100-150 Clutch £500-1000 Fitting Do it yourself or have a mate help you. It's really not that hard. New Belts -not needed if regular service has been done New Oil Pump -not needed New Water Pump -not needed if regular service has been done As you can see, it can be done with a budget in mind if you are ready to get your hands greasy. If not, well you might want to pay the £8k then Also this setup is to around 550 crank hp as the limit is the Fuel injectors and pump. For more power, a full fuel system is needed.

I remember Boostlogic writing that they dont recommend their box with a stock stall. Titan Motorsports have come up with a new 3500rpm stall which will give you better drivability and better efficiency. I had the PI3800 stall and it was fine for street driving.

The idle is rich at 11-12,2:1 AFR, but it might be because of the 280 cams and 1000cc injectors, big lopy cams usually require a tad more rich mixture to idle correctly, but not that much. 14,7:1 is the stock idle and usually what people target at, but with my AEM EMS and 850cc injectors, 13.5-14:1 is the leanest I can go or it will idle like crap. In cruising it should be possible to get a 14,7:1 mixture and that is what you should target for, or even slightly leaner if you want to save some fuel as best fuel economy is at ~16:1 AFR. 14,7:1 is just a stoichiometer mixture that the catalytic converters need to work correctly, but who uses those anyway If you are at 10-11 AFR at WOT, and the car doesnt break up, I wouldnt worry about it that much. You will gain some power if you would tune it to around 11,5:1 AFR and it's overall better for the plugs. But you wont fuck up your engine if you keep driving it, that's just a retarded comment, but it's overall better if you get it tuned as it seems like the AFR's could be better. As a quick help, if you have a fuel pressure regulator with a gauge, you can try to lower the fuel pressure just a tad and see how the idle AFR's react. After that you need to and do a full throttle pass to see that your WOT AFR's are still within spec (under 12:1).

I'm running 809hp at the moment but planning to upgrade for next summer. Lot's of good stretches here as well and quite a few top speed events held at airports. Only bad thing that police gives you tickets by your income, bad for me, but good for Vase as they cant check his moms bank account. lol, lets not talk about that, I'm still paying that fine. Good thing I wasnt with the Supra, I have a hunch that when I get a fine with it, it's not going to be pretty.

Excellent project, I'm definately going to keep an eye on this. Too bad the car is in England, we need more fast Supras to Finland. Nobody can keep up with me and Vase any more Do you have plans to bring the car to Finland?

Yeah, and I've been taking good care of her while you are gone.

Bump, anybody else running these or have any specs? Supradibbs: Are you still running these? What are your impression on them? I have the pinky coloured set that I bought from a forum member. They also have the Sachs logo on them.

I have never ran a BOV and I've been boosting 2.1 bar and the turbo has no play what so ever and has almost 10k miles. I cant stand the BOV's sound anyway, compressor surge sounds so much better. check out a video of my car here to hear what it sounds like: (my car at 1:30)

lol, I think some else got it who didnt even want it. Looking for the guy who got the HKS twin disk instead.

880hp @ 1.35 bar sounds a little high to me. I dont mean to be sceptical, but are you sure that's 765hp at the wheels? 765hp at the crank at 1,35 bar is still high, but more believable. Does this dyno measure the tyres loss as well as it's connected to the hubs?

Wanted 550cc Euro MKIV / UK / US injectors with or withour rail. PM me with offers.

Certainly is a great idea. We have the same kind of law here in Finland so this single version is something to consider.

I drove my single at 1.4 bar with the stock auto for 2-3 months and it worked fine. If you keep the stock TRAC working that closes the TB during shifts, I'm sure it will last a while but it will break eventually.

Wow, what a car..

sika

Sorry to bump an old thread. But what downpipe flange does the 91/79 use? What are the inducers and exducers of the compressor and exhaust wheels?

Needed UK spec front calipers and pads. Discs optional. PM me with offers.

Sounds like a keeper. Why did you break up? EDIT: Nevermind, didnt click on the thread you posted.