and1c

At last, the beast is fixed :cool: Thanks for all your input guys. The loom wiring had indeed sorted the misfire, it turns out there was two problems both causing related symptoms. The second being an incorrectly plumbed boost solenoid (whoops) Noticed that and replumbed it and the car is now pulling like a train, I am only getting 0.5 bar (wastegate pressure) for some reason so I will investigate that tomorrow (will check if the solenoid is stuck) but I just had a very fun evening driving it all over the place. Even at 7psi its quicker than anything I have owned before lol Feels like all that work and cash spent on it (full respray, replace most of engine loom, engine build,titan box, many hours labour etc) has been worth it. Might be a good summer then I've also got it booked in at a local Link dealer who are well respected not too far from me to do an initial dyno run and full healthcheck in a few weeks with a view to a bit more boost in the near future

I've been on to them today Wez, going through the logs it seems it isn't misfiring at all, it is boost cut, the ECU is sensing 23psi (and throwing a MAP limit reached code) but my boost gauge is showing 16 psi, So I am going to get a new internal map sensor for the ECU and see if that sorts it. Links tech guy said to check calibration of my boost gauge (analogue) and the internal map sensor by pressurising each of them to a known level and seeing what they say, well I have yet to have an analogue boost gauge fail on me but I suppose its possible. I've got a few Link dealers who are not to far away but one of them wouldnt do 2jz for some reason (evo place) and the other is booked up for months, so Im going to sort it myself if I can! If not then I will 100% be getting it trailered to a Link dealer... but I don't like to be beaten and I'm not.... not yet anyway!!

So here we are again After making zero progress getting to the bottom of this fault, I decided to do a coilpack conversion, a member off here kindly helped me out with info for the R8 conversion but in the end I went for the 1zz coils as I got a good deal on some. Anyway, all wiring renewed, mil spec wire, heatshrink tubing on every joint etc, stock ignitor removed, 1zz converson done. Result!, in fact no change :taped: So here is a sh*tty mobile clip of the when the car starts playing up, sorry , it was going to be of the car running 100% and wasn't planned for other people to watch or I would have shown the boost gauge too. https://www.dropbox.com/s/3zi5j4elqm7o1h8/Video%2008-05-2017%2C%2010%2011%2039%20pm.mov?dl=0 Suffice to say the Link logging goes ape and flashes up MAP Limit reached when the hesitation occurs. I am now confident it is not a spark issue, here is what I am left with. AN issue with BOV? Or could it be a fuelling issue.? I am starting to get really frustrated with this... any ideas of troubleshooting would be most beneficial!! I seem to be going round in circles, the plus side is most of the engine loom has now been redone at the connectors so at least that is something. I was thinking of installing an FRP with a gauge to see whats going on fuelling wise, the problem is I can't obviously see that on the road, I suppose it would give me an idea of it though. If there was a supra specialist in the vicinity who would take it on and sort this issue I would definitely seriously consider doing that but sadly there are none and SRD won't take it on as they don't map Links. So I am on my own pretty much

Hi, you mean the missing car jack?

Yeah I'll take them mate, please pm me details for payment

Good to know. Looks good quality stuff to be fair.

No worries here, my cars always off road having upgrades lol

If this is all at idle then alternator armatures are not putting out their max rated output at idle. Meaning that it may only be putting out say half of its rated output at idle rather than the full amount. Have you done this test with the engine at say 5k rpm?

Was thinking it looked a bit odd. What was your ET? Looks a beast

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I've got one of these and it has been superb tbo, depends what thicknesses you want to weld really but it has done everything I ever needed car wise. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/135te-turbo-mig-welder/

I'll take the Fuelab 535 FPR with gauge: £80

I've heard that but I will believe it when they are proven, and why are they not for sale on the site if so? Have you got any idea how much it would cost to make the tooling and then produce these gears to an OEM standard? Too much to justify the micro market that would buy the gears, IMO anyway. Hopefully I will be proven wrong and knockoff gears will start appearing that are equal or better in quality than Toyotas, edit/ It appears from this http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?339919-V160-gears that some are in the pipeline, but theres a lot of other parts that are NLA , It wouldnt be financially viable for them to produce every part in a V160, or at least, they would never get their money back!

Yeah, because they can't supply it most likely!

Doubtful! https://suprasport.nl/Toyota/Supra-JZA80-MK4/V160-6-speed-parts/Gears?zenid=h9sfg928qfaq76v0t21pk19i77

So is the auto ecu completely removed? I guess it would be possible for them to install the syvecs and keep the Toyota ecu for the auto box functions if they didnt know what they were doing with the syvecs. Process of elimination... check passenger footwell for what ECU is or isnt there, have you got any logs from the syvecs??

Not sure, but contact Chris Wilson on here for a good quality kit, he is a trader on here.

I agree that prices are on the rise, but you cant base a cars price now, on what it may be worth in the future!! 1st gear crunch - see point one on here https://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/clutch-drag-kills-synchros Essentially it will need a rebuild at some point, and seeing as parts are almost NLA for these boxes now, that wont be easy to sort? Jacks transmissions are not accepting any V160s for rebuilds due to parts issues, or so it says here https://www.jackstransmissions.com/collections/supra-v160-rebuild-options/products/stage-1-v160 So I think the current price is a fair one , but fair play if it sells for more. It is all about market demand, so if it is there it will still sell for more regardless of the box crunch

Anyone stupid enough to send this cn*t money deserves to lose it.

It may be cheap,but if its got a 1st gear engagement crunch on occasion, with the best will in the world, it isnt a 100% healthy V160.

No doubt, I was thinking more of the LS2 conversions where some have reported that the coils don't like the plugwell heat from the 2jz layout. It is a pretty easy conversion TBO as I would do the loom changes myself, with that said I want to get it running correctly before doing any mods like that. Hopefully will have some loan Densos to try soon and see if they help,

Cheers, I suppose the plug-well heat issue would be cured with that open top mod! Nice!

Cheers, any info on what parts you used? R8 as in Audi R8? Think LS2 is the route I would go tbo if I do that route but I need to try and prove that spark is the issue first!

Thanks guys It has a built in map sensor, this one http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/6297-link-g3-internal-map-sensor-broken/ Also, Link modified the map to run lower dwell because of some limit on the stock ignitor they have had issues with before apparently. so at 12v its 3ms, 13v its 1.8ms, 14v 1.8ms, 15 v 1.5ms I don't know if it just coincidence but it seemed to idle a bit lumpily and maybe not run as smoothly as before. I am thinking of reverting to previous map which was only slightly higher at all areas. I only tested it briefly. Will look at MAP logging options tonight, I did wonder if the map sensor had gone dicky like in the link above!!? Will post back, cheers wez

Wrong link /edited! http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?322494-Ebay-dampened-crank-pulley-by-febest/page3 For my money I would go OEM on such a critical part. TCBparts.co.uk