jackso11

I keep getting lease deal emails at the moment. £2000 deposit and £280 a month was the last one. That doesn’t even cover the depreciation you would lose if you bought one....and makes. then more affordable. I think the deals are to get a load of the model 3’s on the road. Only problem I have with them....is I don’t like how any of them look. lol Now if someone got one...tore it down...and put it all into a supra [emoji16]

Has anyone on here got a Tesla? We have had lots of them in for repairs at Autodoc and as all the owners agree the build quality is terrible, panel gaps all over the place, factory paint cloudy as anything, plastics very flimsy....but....we respect customers cars so have never driven one further than in and out of the car park/workshop. Today Enterprise rent a car have us one to repair and said take it out for a drive. Many of our customers say take their cars out, usually when they are proud to have something quick like a C63, McLaren, High spec single supra etc....but I never take them out as I always think what would happen if something went wrong when I was behind the wheel. However, as this was a rental i drove it back to the rental shop.....I put my foot down to see if these cars really are all they are hyped up to be.......JESUS CHRIST THESE THINGS ARE FAST!!!!! I have done a lot of track days in high end cars but this was unreal! 0-60 is supposedly 2.1 seconds and it really feels like it. Also I read Musk has said with the next update the car will then do 0-60 in 1.9 seconds!!! We spend thousands on our cars to give them horse power and waive the turbo lag, Tesla’s are instant power, no lag, so fast. If you have one you are lucky. I want one!

I will have the fan if it’s good

Good old days

If they can source one I will look into couriers

Also I used to refresh the for sale section every few minutes as I didn't want to miss out on things I needed....and things would be posted and sell very quickly!

If anyone has an ecu and are not sure which model it came off I am looking for one of these part numbers: 89661-14490 - TT Auto J-spec 89661-14491 - TT Auto J-spec 89661-14780 - TT auto J-spec Facelift

Same! mine was my daily. My current surpa hasn't even been running consistently in nearly 5 years It is now ready to run but I don't have a working ECU

I remember when (sounding old haha) I used to sit at work with this forum open all the time (obviously hidden at the time!) and couldn't keep up with the posts. There would literally be something to read every other minute. I used to ask a question and have 10 people answering as if they were sitting waiting for me to type. Those were the days. Funny to hear those conversations are now 'in the archives'

I know response times are a lot slower and I think there are less members on here these days but is the forum itself getting smaller? Less server space maybe? It seems there are only a few posts in each section whereas years ago there used to be pages and pages of knowledge on here.

I really need an ECU. Anyone out there have one that works? I bought another off ebay, it has problems too

Does anyone know where can repair MINES ECUs? I sent mine to an ecu repairer and they came back saying they can’t do anything with it, even test it. I read on a mitsubishi forum that only one place in the uk can repair them but I can’t find out where.

You will struggle to find a cheap place now due to the sky rocketing price of the gas. We still have some from before the price shot up but what used to cost £60-70 is now up to nearly £400! And it’s come down a bit to get to that price. We have stopped offering it until the price comes down, we just do it for people who mention it when we are repairing their car.

Nobody put a jump pack on the wrong way around, I called you about it not running and said whifbitz had said it could possibly be the ecu or igniter (from chating to them on the phone). The car has been off the road for 5 years, the last 2 years has been purely because of this running issue which has now been confirmed to be the ecu at fault. I called you to say it’s either the ecu or the igniter and you said you didn’t have either in stock for me to try and I have been searching for one since, which you can see in my posts on here. Problem was I put a rebuilt engine in and changed the ecu at the same time and as you said the ecu was fine I presumed it must have been something else. I know you sold it too me 2 years ago but the car has done about 5 miles in that time just up and down the road here testing trying to get to the root of the problem...which has now been proven to be the ecu.

Maybe you could get it repaired for me as it doesn’t work and I have you my ecu + money for it?

If it was working when it left you I am assuming something happened in transit. Unfortunately it went in with a new rebuilt engine so I assumed the problem was somewhere else and not the ecu. Turns out it was the ecu

Doesn’t fire on one cylinder at all, nothing coming down the wire. Took a back seat as I have been too busy with work but finally managed to look at it this week. Changed the wires to the coil, it’s had new spark plugs just in case, changed igniter. I did ring you about this last year when I first put the engine back in and you said you didn’t have any ecu’s then. Swapped the ecu for one Scooter has let me borrow to test and the car runs fine. I would guess it’s solder related as 1% of the time it starts and runs ok for a minute then drops off to 5 cylinders.

As above. After discovering the mines ECU I got from Keron is no good i now have no working ECU. Keron - any help would be good

Problem solved! Second ECU tested that has been kindly loaned to me by Scooter and the car is running perfectly. So now I just wish I hadn't swapped my ECU with Keron for the mines ECU that doesn't fire on one cylinder Anyone know who can fix it?

There has been a development in the problem it would seem. I decided to unplug one of the plugs going to the coilpacks to see what would happen while the engine is running....pot luck but for some reason I pulled the second one from the front first and there was no change in the engine running at all! It started up fine, I left it a few minutes and all of a sudden while idling it sounded like it wasn't running on all cylinders so I pulled that plug and there was no change in it at all, so it would appear when the problem starts I am running on 5 cylinders. If I pull any of the other plugs the engine dies. I swapped coilpacks around and its always the 2nd cylinder from the front of the engine. I investigated the wiring to that plug and found under the sheathing both wires were cut and I presumed they were shorting so cut out the bad wire and put in some new wire. Still nothing from that cylinder....but the O/D light has stopped flashing...odd. Makes me think either there is another part of the wire damaged, there is a problem with the igniter pack and the second igniter pack I have (which doesn't seem plausible) or the ECU. DOes this make anyone out there think 'I know exactly what that is!'

nobody have any ideas? I remember a time when you could put a question on here and spend the day reading different peoples opinions forum seems to have gone quite these days.

I have googled and found this... #42 Defective no 1 speed sensor #61 Defective no2 speed sensor #62 Defective no 1 solenoid #63 Defective no 2 solenoid #64 Defective lock up solenoid which might be the solution to the O/D flashes but no help for the engine problem I don't think.

Ok so this has been a while as we have been so busy at work and at home my family is growing But I have finaly had a few minutes to look t this again. New information....can anyone help? Basically I charged the battery off the car fully and put it on, started the car and id seemed to run fine again magically. O/D light is flashing, 6 times then 2, then another 6 then 3, on cycle. So I drove it round the building and as I was coming back in to the car park it suddenly started not revving over 1500 rpm again . It seemed to do it as I went over a bump so I thought maybe electrical and a bad connection. I left it over night, started again and it runs fine! However I have discovered that without touching anything and without the car doing anything other than ticking over, when it gets up to running temp I tried to rev it again and its back to not revving over 1500 rpm. So the problem seems to be only there when up to running temp. Is there some kind of limp mode or sensor that this would indicate need looking at? I am hoping one of you clever people will know what this is!

‘Best’ and ‘rattle cans’ can’t be used in the same sentence [emoji12]