madwoody1

cheers chris i will sort something out and get back to you just got to get the mot out the way then i can take it off the road

was told £334 plus vat from my local one just seems high i have a spare old one i brought with a car i broke but i'm not to keen of having £40 of coolant tip out all over the floor because the one i have might have a leak to get it tested i think is £100 plus but then i might as well spend the money on a new one

did he? i have an auto jap tt and would like to keep standard type rad because of the transmission oil cooler to be honest(because unsure if i would then need to install a fan as well) the standard one has lasted 17 years without going wrong and ive had it for 6 years driving it like ive stole it

just found this site what do you guys think as mine is now leaking http://www.carcooling.co.uk/products/Radiator_Toyota_Supra_2997_cc_1993_96_05_93_05_96_3_0_i_24V_Turbo_Twin_Automatic_vehicles_with_or_without_A_C_400_738_31mm_12TO554-62846-1217.html

is it that pricey? leather, body kit, wheels,respray, down south way as well?(kent way puts another £3000 on the book price ) ;-) or he could go to we buy any car and get £897.00

tools to do the job for me was small philips driver flat blade cutters soldering iron solder heat shrink (because i'm a electrical engineer) Easy to do unclip the plastic at the bottom of the lever with flat blade screw driver,this reveals two screws (philips type) undo them the lever will start to move up, next unclip the plastic section near the button on top/side of the lever this will reveal two cables cut them as close to the switch legs as you can but not to close that you can't resolder them back on thats about it it then pulls off fitting is the reversal of what you have just done. but with me i put a small amount of heat shrink on the cables before i soldered them back together think thats about it you can take the whole lever apart that is so much work just so you don't cut those two cables up to you but for me no point

knob, shift lever 33542-14040-co just got one looks great old one was shot to bits £28.51 plus vat not to bad but worth the money was easyer to fit ended up un-soldering the switch rather than taking the auto lever apart only took 15 mins to fit that way including getting tools out and putting them away

http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/ig/clifford/concept600_install.pdf this might help but not sure

i like the tvr tuscan wheels:d i keep thinking about getting a set but bit of a gamble to see if they clear uk brakes think they are 30 off set 8.5"wide front and 9.5" wide rear but dont know the off set

going to go get one for my car tomorrow or at least this week along with coolant, rad cap and auto knob

just a question but if the pump shouldn't be mounted in the tank then couldn't it cause a problem with may be a spark and goodbye fuel tank/car? as i doubt it is Ex(explosive) proof on the outside of the pump?

pmsl

i have one of them and would have to say yes only thing i found when fitting mine the threads on the screws/bolts where not metric thread i think they where unf or unc

thanks for the answers will put that away in the shed for a rainy day

what diff type is this and is it standard toyota or trd?

looks like i will be getting a new leather nob lol

you do have good tyres on don't you? i mean a good name? i had some fullrun and that felt like what your saying

have to say my jap spec auto tt has the reversing buzzer was going to remove it but knowing my luck this would happen to me so i'll just put up with the noise

6 years and still running,second cat taken out with no rr in and alloy stock mount intercooler

well fitted uk bonnet tonight and new passenger side door

well finally got round to having the uk brakes fitted to my jap spec 93 tt,thought it was going to be an average job to do, How wrong was i the first thing i had was the wheels on my hubs, they would of hit the calipers on the front if i hadn't of had spacers on thats not a problem there only 5mm ones, but the problem was when it comes to fitting the spacer and wheels there was only four turns on the nuts so that would be 5mm of thread, should be at least 75% of the bolt 12mm so therefore it would be 8mm give a little. So the studs on the hubs i had off the car i was stripping are 5mm longer so after getting them fitted to my car and putting the calipers on checking for leaks bleeding and everything else i then am just about to start to take the car off the ramps i look at the steering wheel and it didn't look right wasn't straight so realined the steering wheel got out the car to check the toe and guess what the car is now toeing out about 25 degrees. As i haven't got a machine to do the tracking i had to roughly set it up but it is toeing in a little now will have another go on friday when i fit a new rear off side top wishbone what a bloody night there i was thinking calipers,discs,pads done in 1 hour tops and 3 hours later its done with me and my mate john well johndoing most of the work (good lad) on a plus i now have uk 4 pots on the front and 2 pots on the rear[GRIN][/GRIN]

if you poison it it could/would die but then again where will it die and will it smell? best bet would be to get a trap as you then know if its dead or not

as long as when/if you put heat on it you dont melt all of it i thought that that would of been enough grease

going back to colchester to strip the subframe so will have a look if its ok

can you not go and see you local council office so they make them cut it down to a certain size?