SteveC
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Everything posted by SteveC
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Deleted - double post
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Yes, it can only go on a car first registered from 1st August 1996 onwards. Having the plate made up as per the photo could potentially be asking for trouble though... (quick check on the UK Speedtrap website): If the numbers/letters are 89mm high, then the gap between groups should be 38mm, i.e., P8 (38mm gap) SSU If the numbers/letters are 79mm high, then the gap between groups should be 33mm, i.e., P8 (33mm gap) SSU The maximum fine for a number plate offence can be £1000 and/or your registration mark withdrawn.
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Fortunately I don't need a set, just thought that they'd be OK for a spare. I didn't really want to invest as much as £250 on a spare part at the moment, but I'll have a think about it. Thanks.
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Are the turbos still available? If so, how much are you after?
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It's only the rear stop and tail lights that can bring up a light failure warning on the Supra dash. HIDS Direct supplied mine and they've been very good so far... decent prices too. http://www.hids-direct.co.uk/
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If your talking about the one Supralad is selling, that one's mapped for J-Spec 440cc injectors so I'd say it wouldn't be suitable for a UK with it's 550cc injectors.
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I've found that Royal Purple Synchomax is an excellent alternative to V160... and I'd go as far as to say that if anything, the RPS gives a slightly better gearchange - and it wasn't as though I was expecting any improvement.
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Just spotted your post here and this wire was one I was looking for a week or two back on a wiring diagram. It's no big deal, but according to the Toyota diagram the reverse light circuit (called the 'back-up light' on the diagram) is actually a RED wire with a BLACK stripe. Back-up light.pdf
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OK, not the same thing at all then - a bit of a hybrid. Thanks for clearing that up.
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Purely out of interest, are UK TT6 and TRD diffs the same thing then?
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They don't normally require a different fuse. If neither light illuminates, then chances are that there is a wiring fault as opposed two having two faulty sides. You need to have the polarity correct or they won't light up.
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They import directly from Japan as opposed to buying from Toyota UK - and yes, they are genuine Toyota parts.
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You could try here - just over half-way down the page. £262.85 inc VAT + about a tenner for delivery. I initially tried a second-hand one and whilst it was better than the original that was on the car, it still had some play so I bought a new one as above.
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The AEM Tru-boost has this feature. On the AEM it's called 'Spring Pressure' - in their terminology... and it does make a huge difference to spool-up.
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That SARD unit on eBay is used (you did want a new one?) - and if they declare the full value on the Customs info, then you can add around another £50 to that price.
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This is where I bought my AEM Tru-boost (£225 inc delivery) - but they were a little cheaper when I bought mine.
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An AEM Tru-boost new is around £200.
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The AEM Tru-boost is a digital boost gauge and controller in one 52mm diameter unit. Quite easy to install and set up. I have one and reports I read before buying made it out to be a reliable unit with a good quality solenoid. Some people take the stock time clock out and mount it there.
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Hopefully it's just a blown fuse (or two), but it could be burnt out wire or, as previously mentioned, a damaged ECU or ignitor unit. Check all fuses including the main 120A fuse. Then, if you can't find the problem it's Auto Electrician time and I suggest you send your 'mate' the bill.
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I can tell you that a set of UK rear springs will raise the back end around 10mm over a set of J-Spec TT rear springs. Can't say that I found the J-Specs much firmer though. I don't know for certain, but I doubt there's much difference between J-Spec N/A and TT rear springs.
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Is there enough room to get a nut splitter on?
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If your wiring is original (not hacked about), then you won't have to cut any wires if you use one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PC2-17-4-Toyota-Starlet-Supra-ISO-Stereo-Head-Unit-Harness-Adaptor-Wiring-Lead-/150672056458 Once the dash is off, it only takes a few minutes to swap head units if you can use the adapter.
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Two more subs the AV system, and an amp for the Supra audio system. It's going to be a noisy Christmas...
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Yes, the World will feel a little more ronery today...
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Try carefully warming the area up with a hair dryer. Plastic that have been deformed due to constant pressure can sometimes return to almost it's original state with a bit of heat. I won't be perfect, but it could be a quick improvement and cheap.
