Dan's Supra Project

Looking good - impressive attention to detail!

Nice to see you put plenty of copper slip on those suspension bolts. Those things sieze up like a BIATCH!

Looking good - impressive attention to detail!

 

Thanks

 

Nice to see you put plenty of copper slip on those suspension bolts. Those things sieze up like a BIATCH!

 

I got a bit of stick about the amount of copper grease I was using too. I did paste a bit on afterwards too to keep the water off I'm not sure if you saw the pics posted a page or so ago but the cam bolts from the front lower arms looked brand new when I took them out. The only one that was seized was the offside, rear toe arm.

 

To be honest I'm beginning to wonder if they all actually needed replacing. Nevermind...the money has been spent now.

Front top arms are here now....

 

 

Rear strut rods and mounting hardware*:

 

 

And the rear top arms' extra bits have turned up too so they're ready to roll as well:

 

 

 

 

 

Everything is getting a few coats of paint before fitting - not the typical thing seen on the washing line

 

*I need to check that one of the pairs of nuts for the rear strut rods are correct (I think the part number got mixed up ending in 54 as opposed to 45). Once that is sorted I'll stick some pics and part numbers in the tech area to make the whole suspension arm swap obvious for everyone else.

Edited March 6, 2010 by dandan (see edit history)

dan theres some serious cash gone into this baby thats for sure.

Your attention to detail is astounding mate. im looking forward to seeing this car.

dan theres some serious cash gone into this baby thats for sure.

Your attention to detail is astounding mate. im looking forward to seeing this car.

I can only re-iterate what John has said, it is an excpetional build

dan theres some serious cash gone into this baby thats for sure.

Your attention to detail is astounding mate. im looking forward to seeing this car.

 

I can only re-iterate what John has said, it is an excpetional build

 

Cheers fellas, I really appreciate the comments and hope it's interesting to follow. I'm treading carefully with it now as I don't want to do anything that will put me off the road for ages with the warmer weather approaching as it's all running nicely and reliably. I can't spend loads of time on it at the moment so things just take that much longer to do. I'm not doing anything that major to make sure it stays on the road as much as possible - I'd like to relocate the battery, fit the Greddy intake, and gas flow the head but with the amount of time I have on my hands right now that could take me a month or more I am toying with the idea of just paying someone to do the battery relocation and Greddy install though

 

John - don't expect too much in the flesh mate The money and time is being spent on areas that aren't really seen so it's not like I've got a mega $$$$ paint job or luxury interior with a huge ICE system or anything flash like that to see - it looks fairly normal except for the TRD spoiler and wheels. The money has been pumped into the underbonnet stuff and running gear really....I suppose my intention is to crack 600hp on the stock cams and intake and make sure there is still bags of bottom end grunt to make the lazy, part throttle daily driving a breeze. Plus I want to be able to put that power and torque down reliably with a smooth, supple, easy to drive chassis wrapped up in a modern OEM kind of appearance.

Edited March 7, 2010 by dandan (see edit history)

..The money has been pumped into the underbonnet stuff and running gear really....

 

To be quite honest, the only people who are distracted by a shiny paint job are the people who don't know cars.

 

When you're knowledgeable enough to see how much attention has been paid to the fine details (especially when you *know* how difficult and/or expensive it is to do the job right!), then you appreciate simplicity and function much more.

 

For mine, this is one of the best attention to detail threads I've seen on here.

It's nice to see a project where everything done is in the quest for reliable power and not vanity. Well executed engineering will always look good anyway.

To be quite honest, the only people who are distracted by a shiny paint job are the people who don't know cars.

 

When you're knowledgeable enough to see how much attention has been paid to the fine details (especially when you *know* how difficult and/or expensive it is to do the job right!), then you appreciate simplicity and function much more.

 

For mine, this is one of the best attention to detail threads I've seen on here.

 

It's nice to see a project where everything done is in the quest for reliable power and not vanity. Well executed engineering will always look good anyway.

 

Cheers fellas, it's nice to know someone shares my thinking. The car doesn't really look any different to twelve months ago so sometimes it's hard to explain to friends/family where all the time has been spent. They just don't get it :search:

 

On your point Mig.......I suppose we are lucky to be involved with cars where 600bhp is considered reliable power. We're spoilt with the 2JZ motor

I must say a big thank you to RobSheffield for selling and then hand delivering these beauties to me - thanks a bunch Rob Nice to meet you today mate.

 

 

I need to do a bit of investigation to see if the front bar will fit with my existing intercooler pipe routing on the hot side. I suspect I may have to alter the piping a little and if that's the case I will hold off until I fit the Greddy 3 row as the piping needs to change a little to fit that anyway. Hopefully this will fit OK and the piping and intercooler can be tackled at a later date after the suspension is all sorted. With any luck both bars will be fitted at the wekend when I finish fitting the last of the suspension arms.

The exhaust fabrication is 99% done now. This new setup gives 4" from the turbo back to the entrance to the second silencer. At that point it drops to 3" through another silencer and then the backbox - or if the switch is flicked it'll dump out of the open valve

 

It's easy to see the difference in flow area compared to the old piece of pipe...

 

 

 

This is the view into the 4" silencer and out of the open dump...

 

 

I can't wait to see how it sounds. Before it's really driveable, I need to finish the outlet side of the valve with a tailpipe kind of thing and also an additional hanger as I've lost my old mid-mount and I want to get it supported properly again.

I must say a big thank you to RobSheffield for selling and then hand delivering these beauties to me - thanks a bunch Rob Nice to meet you today mate.

 

 

Only just seen this Dan

 

Was a pleasure and nice to meet you too, if only we had more time to chat

Wow, the arb bushes even have grease nipples

Great work Dan, you have too much time on your hands lol

only just seen this dan

 

was a pleasure and nice to meet you too, if only we had more time to chat

 

You too mate, thanks again for dropping them off.

 

wow, the arb bushes even have grease nipples

 

 

great work dan, you have too much time on your hands lol

 

That's not quite how the better half puts it!

 

 

i can't wait to see how it sounds.

 

It sounds mean as hell chaps! :sly: :sly: I need a Youtube account to post up a video now

This is how it looks minus the stubby dump/tail pipe:

 

 

I thought about polishing up the rest of the stainless pipes but there's not really any point. I will do the tailpipe though as that is seen

 

 

I also repainted the main parts of my intercooler ducting:

 

 

 

And I swapped the intercooler itself for something a little meatier I did have to tweak the pipework slightly but nothing too horrific...mainly due to the better end tank design on the Greddy sucking up more space.

 

I got the outlet pipe for the valve finished and fitted it today....

 

I also added an extra exhaust mounting point and wrapped a few parts of the system in an attempt to remove a slight bit of tinnyness in the sound - I stopped well shy of the backbox as I had some concerns about clearance to the subframe...now that is's all back on it looks like I could have wrapped the rest too. Typical

 

 

 

 

I have some more work to do on the breather system and then it'll be back to the rolling road once Mr G can spare some time.

Edited March 31, 2010 by dandan (see edit history)

That's some bit of work dan

 

Where does that pipe exit? Hope it's not inline with a rear wheel or the tank, it'll spark and throw a few flames so make sure all lines are suitably protected (though I'm sure you have this thought out already)

 

Also, surely with the valve shut it's going to cause a large restriction in the exhaust. Wouldn't the vortex caused by the blocked exhaust gas push back into the main pipe and disrupt the flow?

That's some bit of work dan

 

Where does that pipe exit? Hope it's not inline with a rear wheel or the tank, it'll spark and throw a few flames so make sure all lines are suitably protected (though I'm sure you have this thought out already)

 

Also, surely with the valve shut it's going to cause a large restriction in the exhaust. Wouldn't the vortex caused by the blocked exhaust gas push back into the main pipe and disrupt the flow?

 

It dumps out down near the diff sort of area - slightly to the offside. I did run it for a while without this downturned tip on but had a few concerms about heat and flames causing issues on the rubber doughnut and inner shaft boots as the valve itself points fairly close to the doughnut. I toyed with the idea of extending the whole thing right to the back but figured I'd try the lightweight option first before I do anything more complex I'll try to get a pic of it on the car over the weekend.

 

Regarding the exhaust flow....yes, I reckon there may be some issues with this setup when flowing through the 3" section due to the turbulence from the shut valve. However the curved piece of pipe between the 1st and 2nd silencers is 4" diameter and this is where I have tapped off to the valve so there's plenty room and flow area. It certainly feels no different on the road

 

The other option was to Tee the bypass valve off the 3" section to keep the 3" nice and free flowing - a bit like this:

 

 

However, plumbing it that way (where I had space) would compromise the flow through the dumped exit which is the exact opposite of what I wanted. The way I have it keeps the dumped option the least restrictive and most direct. I can live with a small compromise on the quiet setting

 

I suppose the real answer will come from the rolling road. I'm looking forward to seeing the curves with the valve open and closed to see how both compare to the normal 3" option I used to have. Fingers crossed!

I love your work Dan

That's some bit of work dan

 

 

I love your work Dan

 

Thanks fellas

 

I suppose the real answer will come from the rolling road. I'm looking forward to seeing the curves with the valve open and closed to see how both compare to the normal 3" option I used to have. Fingers crossed!

 

No luck getting back on the dyno yet mate?

No luck getting back on the dyno yet mate?

 

Not yet mate. Ryan and I spent a few hours in it a week or so ago tweaking the map to suit. With the valve shut it runs a little richer than before and the EGT's are a little higher up at 1.6bar.

 

But....the first time we tried a 1.6bar run with the valve open it hit 1.8bar in a heartbeat and the ecu stopped play Once Ryan dialled out a load of gain on the boost solenoid and added more fuel in we were back in business. The open valve makes a big difference and the whole setup feels a lot livelier. I can't say or even guess how much extra power it makes but it definitely makes more...and spools a hell of a lot faster too

 

Ryan is trying to sort out a tweaked version of code to run the valve in a slightly different way, once that is ready we will have a few jobs to do prior to hitting the rollers:

 

- Get traction control mapped

- Get valve control system linked into the ecu with switchable maps

- Get mappable water injection tweaked ready for RR

 

I'm really keen to see what difference it makes now.....as soon as Ryan's code is done I'll be ready to go.

Sounds good mate, yeah makes sense the boost goes up with less restriction, do switchable maps really work? i remember talking with Ryan about this before and i thought it could not be done at the flick of a switch? just boost changes.