RobSheffield Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 Nice one, look forward to video Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpslaughter1982 Posted February 12, 2007 Author Share Posted February 12, 2007 Here's a pic of my downpipe welded up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 Nice and tidy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 Looks good! Nearly there Where did you end up getting the expansion joint in the end & what was ther price? (Need to make another dp for mine at some point..) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpslaughter1982 Posted February 12, 2007 Author Share Posted February 12, 2007 Looks good! Nearly there Where did you end up getting the expansion joint in the end & what was ther price? (Need to make another dp for mine at some point..) http://www.dynoflow.co.uk and it was £20 delivered. Very good service Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpslaughter1982 Posted February 12, 2007 Author Share Posted February 12, 2007 http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=777778129388692325 It was just the first time we turned it over so nothing is set up yet but not bad considering it hasn't budged for 6 months! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uk-rich Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 that is a very good price Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpslaughter1982 Posted February 12, 2007 Author Share Posted February 12, 2007 I think that exhaust valve on the dynoflow website could be fun too. Normal system for the MOT then straight out for a laugh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpslaughter1982 Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 Another question, on the back of the intake chamber is air intake hose, where should this route to on a single? many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra matt Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 think you just block that one up mate ! or use it for the wast gate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpslaughter1982 Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 think you just block that one up mate ! or use it for the wast gate. Sorry, just so I know we're on the same page, the tube on the far left of this pic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 Yep, its in a good place to use for boost reference. Got mine hooked up to the BOV (its the same feed the stock BOV uses). I wouldn't use that for the wastegate. the best one for that is off the compressor housing (closest is best) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 Sorry, just so I know we're on the same page, the tube on the far left of this pic? If you mean the one on the end with the pipe still attached then yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra matt Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 I would say cap it off mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 Video sounds good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpslaughter1982 Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 Thanks all for your help. On another subject, I did the 12v fuel pump mod as it was recomended to me when I got the walbro fuel pump. Unfortunately I did more research after carrying out the mod and have since discovered that it is dangerous as the fuel pumps always on with the ignition! What's the best way around this? I still want the pump to be run on 12v's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra matt Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 its only on with full ignition mate , it,s off if you have it in postion 1 which is your stereo and that , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpslaughter1982 Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 its only on with full ignition mate , it,s off if you have it in postion 1 which is your stereo and that , Apparently the problem is if you crash (touch wood) the fuel pump will continue to pump fuel into the engine which could lead to all sorts of problems. It was briefly discussed on TL License's blitz twin install thread however he completely changed his fuel setup and no alternative suggested for people with the standard setup. TBH I dont know if the standard pump would stop in the event of a crash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpslaughter1982 Posted February 24, 2007 Author Share Posted February 24, 2007 As per the info on the 12v thread I have decided to undo the mod. I have done a compression test on the cylinders and they all came between 170 and 180 psi which seems healthy to me[GRIN][/GRIN] I'm going to wire up the the aem 3.5 bar map sensor, does anyone happen to know what wire goes to where? 3 wires on the aem red green and black, 3 wires on the standard sensor are brown, black and blue with a stripe. Many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpslaughter1982 Posted September 29, 2007 Author Share Posted September 29, 2007 Haven't updated this thread for a while but I thought I'd add a little overview of my experiences/problems. 1- The PHR Street kit oil return did not fit on my Jap spec rhd car due to the steering rack. I bought a 60 degree aerospace 10an female hose fitting hoping that it would clear but it didn't (-10JIC Doubleswivel- Aeroquip http://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/On_line_shop_Female_60o_fitting_69.html). The oil kit comes with a mounting bracket (to fit to the block) and a straight male to male (10AN to NPTF I believe). This male male adapter sticks out too far. I actually botched this using a 90 degree female to male adapter from B&Q and haven't seen any leaks. I believe the best way around this problem is to buy a 45 or 90 degree 10AN to 1/2inch NPTF male to male adapter which will screw into the PHE adapter plate. Think auto have some. FBM2024 -10JIC x 1/2NPTF- aluminium http://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/On_line_shop_JIC_to_NPTF__AN823___166.html MMA98-10-8 -10JIC x 1/2NPTF- aluminium http://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/On_line_shop_JIC_to_NPTF_173.html I have heard that another way to get round this problem is turning one of the subframe bolts upside down however I didn't fancy doing this. 2- Turbo exhuast pipe. This will not fit the Jap cars and on my kit the exhuast pipe actually hit the screamer pipe. This didn't matter to me too much as I had a different exhuast pipe made up however it's worth checking when the kit arrives. 3- Remember to fit fuel resistant rubber o-rings to your injectors/fpr/rail etc. I didn't and it took me an age to take it all off and refit them properly. I got mine from http://www.speedflow.co.uk/z510.htm 4 - spark plugs. When starting and tuning initially don't use iridiums. I rendered a brand new set of IK24 useless in about 50 miles from overfuelling. Get some cleanable ones will sorting out initial maps and then put the good ones in for fine tuning. 5 - AEM ecu's are complicated for a begginner! Living on the south coast there are not many specialist tuners around and exceptionally few that can map AEM's. I ended up driving a long way to pay for mine to get mapped and when I got the car back it still didn't idle with some very weird AEM idle settings. Mine wasn't a custom map from scratch however the tuner adapted another map with different map sensor and injector settings. Whilst this hasn't caused any major problems the map scale is off. You pays your money.......... In hind sight, if I were to do my small single install again I'd probably go for a piggyback system for simplicity. 6 - I had a number of stalling problems with my car after the all the kit was fitted. When the engine got hot and you drove to a stop the engine would cut out. Also had a big dip in RPM when pressing the throttle from idle. After a lot of fiddling I found the main poblem to be the throttle plate resting position and ICV% Vs RPM table on the AEM. After reading the manual properly, when setting the idle you should do so with the ICV off and no extra load on the engine (aircon, lights etc). You adjust the resting Throttle position first to get to your idle target. After this has been completed you can set your ICV% vs RPM for your RPM range and engine loads. This may seem obvious to advanced tuners but for a novice like me took me about a month to figure out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted September 29, 2007 Share Posted September 29, 2007 Thanks for the update, you may have just helped me with a problem! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADL Mark Posted September 29, 2007 Share Posted September 29, 2007 Cheers for that Richard, that will also help me out a lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted September 29, 2007 Share Posted September 29, 2007 Who mapped your AEM and why is the scale off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muffleman Posted September 29, 2007 Share Posted September 29, 2007 Mine wasn't a custom map from scratch however the tuner adapted another map with different map sensor and injector settings. Whilst this hasn't caused any major problems the map scale is off. You pays your money.......... In hind sight, if I were to do my small single install again I'd probably go for a piggyback system for simplicity. 6 - I had a number of stalling problems with my car after the all the kit was fitted. When the engine got hot and you drove to a stop the engine would cut out. Also had a big dip in RPM when pressing the throttle from idle. After a lot of fiddling I found the main poblem to be the throttle plate resting position and ICV% Vs RPM table on the AEM. After reading the manual properly, when setting the idle you should do so with the ICV off and no extra load on the engine (aircon, lights etc). You adjust the resting Throttle position first to get to your idle target. After this has been completed you can set your ICV% vs RPM for your RPM range and engine loads. This may seem obvious to advanced tuners but for a novice like me took me about a month to figure out! Not sure I would be confident to run positive boost on a map that seems to have been cobbled together from a different car mate, who mapped it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imi Posted September 29, 2007 Share Posted September 29, 2007 Here's a rough idea of the costs so far: PowerHouse Racing Stage Street Turbo kit £2000 Sard 650cc injectors £210 AEM ecu + Aeromotive FPR + walbro fuel pump + fuel pulsation removal kit £1600 New gaskets + bolts etc £100 Double Decat £225 I was hoping to do it for £4000 but as with all my budgeting I've gone over! And that doesnt account for labour costs - which would apply in my case - how much labour is involved (approx) ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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