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Inlet manifolds & compression


nicky
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Right ladies and gentleman it’s been discussed many many times...

Inlet manifolds, I want to know what everyone’s using.

Hypertune is all I seem to see when trying to buy but I refuse to spend £2000 on something that I have HEARD is not required since the stock inlet doesn’t restrict any power?

 

Maybe someone with more knowledge on the subject can shed some light on it?

As after all what I’ve HEARD is internet research after all.

 

I would like an aftermarket inlet but going for 1000hp in the future is going to cost me an arm a leg and a kidney, don’t want to throw in a testicle while I’m there 😂

 

On another note whilst I’ve got your undivided attention...

with engine builds in the UK what compression should we build for as our fuel in comparison to the US is frankly quite shite, bare in mind I won’t be running ethanol.

 

 

Would love any advice/knowledge you can put in to this post 👍

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Right ladies and gentleman it’s been discussed many many times...

Inlet manifolds, I want to know what everyone’s using.

Hypertune is all I seem to see when trying to buy but I refuse to spend £2000 on something that I have HEARD is not required since the stock inlet doesn’t restrict any power?

 

Maybe someone with more knowledge on the subject can shed some light on it?

As after all what I’ve HEARD is internet research after all.

 

I would like an aftermarket inlet but going for 1000hp in the future is going to cost me an arm a leg and a kidney, don’t want to throw in a testicle while I’m there

 

On another note whilst I’ve got your undivided attention...

with engine builds in the UK what compression should we build for as our fuel in comparison to the US is frankly quite $#@!e, bare in mind I won’t be running ethanol.

 

 

Would love any advice/knowledge you can put in to this post

 

Can't comment on intake manifold but I have a built engine on stock compression 8:5:1 which allows me to produce neck bending power on vpower pump fuel. One thing to note though, next year all fuel stations will be E10 meaning 10% ethanol which is a bonus for any tuned car.

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Pretty much any branded manifold is going to cost you said testicle. Hypertune is actually one of the cheaper ones compared to what you can spend if money no object. Look at Plazaman, they do some nice ones but pricewise is in line with Hypertune and you won't have to go through a third party to buy one from them like you do with Hypertune.

 

You could buy one of the cheaper units but they seem to cause a lot of hassle with junk throttle bodies and warped flange faces. Though some of the billet runner ones do look quite nice. My approach is that if I see one of the cheap, Chinese throttle bodies I move on. They're easy to spot as they normally have the inlet size stamped on the valve face. Call me a brand whore but I've heard enough people talk about the dead spots they suffer from on light accelerator movement.

 

image

 

8.5:1 up to about 9:1 I would say is a good number to aim for but there are many factors.

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Can't go wrong buying an expensive throttle body. I had a cheap one, tuner said it had to be binned. Setup a decent throttle body from the start is my advice. Cheap throttle body means poor accelerator control.

 

In my opinion, any manifold with well shaped internal flow passages, trumpets or large machined radius edges leading into the runners, is the desired outcome. From a function viewpoint, it doesn't matter about much else. Aside from build quality, shape, various views on a straight design vs a tampered.

 

Some people hit 1000hp on the OEM manifold. I'm not sure it's a critical component for 1khp.

 

If 1k is the goal, I'd use the stock inlet. But, I'm only 600hp and my multiple manifold experience is on GE engines. Maybe someone else can chime in with experience if it's really a worthy investment.

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People do hit big numbers on the stock inlet manifold. However, I remember on one of JamiePs builds that they were able to make a lot of power at a lower boost pressure than was possible with stock. However you look at that, whether decreasing stress on components, or making more power with fewer parts, it's a decent upgrade. Costly though.

 

I would like to see someone make a twin chamber inlet plenum, as can be seen in loads of motorsport applications.

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Pretty much any branded manifold is going to cost you said testicle. Hypertune is actually one of the cheaper ones compared to what you can spend if money no object. Look at Plazaman, they do some nice ones but pricewise is in line with Hypertune and you won't have to go through a third party to buy one from them like you do with Hypertune.

 

You could buy one of the cheaper units but they seem to cause a lot of hassle with junk throttle bodies and warped flange faces. Though some of the billet runner ones do look quite nice. My approach is that if I see one of the cheap, Chinese throttle bodies I move on. They're easy to spot as they normally have the inlet size stamped on the valve face. Call me a brand whore but I've heard enough people talk about the dead spots they suffer from on light accelerator movement.

 

https://jza80.mkivsupra.net/imports/2020/05/17.jpg

 

8.5:1 up to about 9:1 I would say is a good number to aim for but there are many factors.

 

Are you NA-T? ..I'm trying to see which 90mm throttle body I could use :think:

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Are you NA-T? ..I'm trying to see which 90mm throttle body I could use :think:

 

I am indeed, still running the stock intake just now but when the time comes I'll be looking to convert to the DBW that Noz has reccomended below

 

90mm bosch drive by wire I can recommend! Response feels incredible.
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Some good things to take onboard with the inlet manifold thanks boys....

I asked real street to “build” me a 1000hp engine and these are the parts they have laid out for me...

 

CP Forged Pistons Toyota 2JZGTE Supra MK4 86.5mm 9.0:1

Je Pistons .230" Wall 9310 2.250" Length .866" Width Wrist Pin each

Brian Crower HD Heavy Duty BC625+ H Beam Rods Toyota Supra 2J 2JZ 2JZ-GTE MK4 1

ACL Race Main Bearing SET STD Size Toyota 1JZ-GTE 2JZ 2JZGE 2JZGTE Supra MK4 1

ACL Race Rod Bearing SET STD Size Toyota 1JZ-GTE 2JZ 2JZGE 2JZGTE Supra MK4 6B8100H 1

ACL Thrust Washer 2JZ 2JZGE 2JZGTE Toyota Supra MK4 2T8103 1

ARP Headstuds 1994-2002 Toyota Supra MK4 2JZ-GTE 2JZGTE 1JZ-GTE 203-4205 1

ARP Main Stud Kit Toyota Supra MKIV 2JZGTE 2JZ-GTE Twin Turbo 2JZ 1

Toyota OEM Head Gasket for 2JZ GTE 1

Powerhouse Racing PHR Modified Toyota Supra MK4 2JZGTE 2JZ-GTE 1JZ-GTE Oil Pump 1

ATI Super Damper Crank Pulley Toyota Supra MK4 2JZGTE 2JZ-GTE JZA80 1

GSC S2 274 / 274 Billet Camshafts Toyota 2JZGTE 2JZ-GTE Supra MKIV Turbo 1

GSC Beehive Valve Springs Retainers Toyota 2JZGTE Supra MKIV 1

PHR Billet Adjustable Locking Cam Gear BLACK for Supra 2JZ/1JZ 01011048.B 2

GSC Chrome Polished Intake Valves 33.6mm STD 2JZ-GE 2JZ-GTE Toyota 1

GSC Super Alloy Exhaust Valves 29mm STD 2JZ Toyota 1

GSC Power-Division Intake Valve Guides With Depth Gauge 2JZ 2JZGTE 2JZ-GTE 1

GSC Power-Division Exhaust Valve Guides With Depth Gauge 2JZ 1

GSC 6mm Valve Seal Kit Toyota 2JZGTE Supra MKIV Turbo

 

 

What do you think on these parts? What am I missing? What’s meant to be on the list is a gasket set and billet main caps aswell, aside from that, what else?

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@Gpro There no benefits to E10 fuel, except for the 10% emissions that wont be hydrocarbon based upon combustion. You only start to take advantage of ethanol fuel's knock resistance at over 40% alcohol content. You then also need 40% more ethanol due to its lower BTU rating and thus needing the extra percentage to make up for the BTU's to compare it to gasoline.

 

@nicky we do and dont have shit fuel. pump fuel is mostly garbage for production cars and not performance - however its still 99 RON. American fuels are graded different to ours and most places only get 87-93 ron fuel but they also have a lot of space to grow enough crop to produce E85 which is better than 99 ron fuel IMO. There are tons of engines out there on stock compression producing plenty of horsepower for our roads

 

Want a high performance engine and to keep it safe from detonation? Put good fuel in it wether you buy it or mix your own. Speak to your tuner regarding flex fuel or having a dedicated map for perhaps a 20% meth mix in your fuel to added knock protection.

Edited by wrighty338 (see edit history)
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Some good things to take onboard with the inlet manifold thanks boys....

I asked real street to “build” me a 1000hp engine and these are the parts they have laid out for me...

 

CP Forged Pistons Toyota 2JZGTE Supra MK4 86.5mm 9.0:1

Je Pistons .230" Wall 9310 2.250" Length .866" Width Wrist Pin each

Brian Crower HD Heavy Duty BC625+ H Beam Rods Toyota Supra 2J 2JZ 2JZ-GTE MK4 1

ACL Race Main Bearing SET STD Size Toyota 1JZ-GTE 2JZ 2JZGE 2JZGTE Supra MK4 1

ACL Race Rod Bearing SET STD Size Toyota 1JZ-GTE 2JZ 2JZGE 2JZGTE Supra MK4 6B8100H 1

ACL Thrust Washer 2JZ 2JZGE 2JZGTE Toyota Supra MK4 2T8103 1

ARP Headstuds 1994-2002 Toyota Supra MK4 2JZ-GTE 2JZGTE 1JZ-GTE 203-4205 1

ARP Main Stud Kit Toyota Supra MKIV 2JZGTE 2JZ-GTE Twin Turbo 2JZ 1

Toyota OEM Head Gasket for 2JZ GTE 1

Powerhouse Racing PHR Modified Toyota Supra MK4 2JZGTE 2JZ-GTE 1JZ-GTE Oil Pump 1

ATI Super Damper Crank Pulley Toyota Supra MK4 2JZGTE 2JZ-GTE JZA80 1

GSC S2 274 / 274 Billet Camshafts Toyota 2JZGTE 2JZ-GTE Supra MKIV Turbo 1

GSC Beehive Valve Springs Retainers Toyota 2JZGTE Supra MKIV 1

PHR Billet Adjustable Locking Cam Gear BLACK for Supra 2JZ/1JZ 01011048.B 2

GSC Chrome Polished Intake Valves 33.6mm STD 2JZ-GE 2JZ-GTE Toyota 1

GSC Super Alloy Exhaust Valves 29mm STD 2JZ Toyota 1

GSC Power-Division Intake Valve Guides With Depth Gauge 2JZ 2JZGTE 2JZ-GTE 1

GSC Power-Division Exhaust Valve Guides With Depth Gauge 2JZ 1

GSC 6mm Valve Seal Kit Toyota 2JZGTE Supra MKIV Turbo

 

 

What do you think on these parts? What am I missing? What’s meant to be on the list is a gasket set and billet main caps aswell, aside from that, what else?

 

I have a similar engine spec to yours (see my profile) one thing I would have changed if I could go back is replace the CP piston with these https://www.realstreetperformance.com/je-ultra-forged-pistons-toyota-supra-mk4-2jzgte-2jz-gte-2jz-ge-86-5mm-0-5mm-10-4-cc-9-01.html but of course not necessary but a nice upgrade for a bit more money.

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I have a Greddy inlet on my 2JZ-GTE VVTI. Stock Bottom end, stage 1 BC cams and 64mm single.

 

Mike and Lee told me this inlet gives the same effect as a pair of cams… makes the engine breath better so.

 

I'm currently @650BHP @1.3bar. The numbers were quite good from what Mike said, so there is definately a gain with the manifold (more power and quicker spool).

 

I bought it less than 1k form Luxluc from what I remember.

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Compression of 8:5:1 if you want to play it super safe on pump fuel.

 

If you want car to feel more responsive and make more power then go to 9:1 or more. Our pump fuel is better than US fuel, so we can get away with more on pump fuel.

 

However if you go too high in static compression then generally there will be a limit to how much power you can make safely without detonation, before needing to switch to ethanol. Your tuner should have a preference for dealing with this.

 

Also worth noting that static compression numbers aren't everything. Depending on cam and head setup, your dynamic compression with the motor running may allow you to get away with more on pump fuel than you might think.

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The main difference between OE and After market is the length of the intake runners

 

wide inlet runners move the torque curve up the rev range whereas long, narrow runners move the curve down the rev range

 

OE you will have torque lower in the rev range

 

Majority of Owners make the compromise for aesthetics , few members had good experiences with the SSI intake ( Greg in Protuner was happy with the throttle body seal and function)

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