Mike2JZ Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 Spent some time getting the arms and differential separated from subframe last night. Good to see the torsen Ao2B in the car is still in good nick as well, gears look still intact and smooth. Have put in a massive order for cleaning bits and some tools so come Thursday night engine will be split and under sealing can begin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra_ufo Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 cant see all the images coming along though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 cant see all the images coming along though Which ones are you having problems seeing? Are other members having this issue as well? Looks ok on my screen and I've uploaded pics directly to forum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra_ufo Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 post #122 and 123 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Raven Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Nice work mate, braver man than me. Not all the pics are showing tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bailey Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Some pics arent showing for me either....come on Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 Gone back and re-uploaded some of the previous photos so hopefully they are working now. Still waiting on my cleaning materials and some additional tools to arrive, so hopefully get started on that tomorrow evening. In the meantime however: Got our ramps setup in the unit, so this will help speed up the rebuild process when I get to that stage Also started pulling the loom bay loom through the firewall, so I can wiretuck the cables and get rid of the brittle plastic in favor of some new wiring sleeves/loom tape. Also removed the ABS and some hard pipes in order to get some cleaning done before putting them back in. Realized at this stage that I parked a little to close to the wall, so unable to get passengerside wing off in order to get access to cables. Bit hard to move the car with the rear end missing, but I'll figure something out. As my last rear subframe was butchered by a garage who tried to unseize some of the camber bolts a while back I had to get another second hand one. Ideally I wanted to get it shotblasted as it has some dirt & surface rust, but no one local could schedule me in on time, so the long process of wirewheeling and surface rust removal begins before I can use POR15 on it and start re-assembling it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 (edited) Brake booster, ABS pump, looms, clutch master cylinder all removed and bay cleaned by hand. Took a while but looks so much nicer now, was planning to spray the bay black but the white has come out nicely now, so will leave as is. Rear half of the chassis now has underseal in places it was missed before. Being a high mileage supra that has sat idle for years I was expecting rust on the underbody, but suprised to only find rust where the subframe large mounts connects to the chassis. So wirebrushed them back and rust treated before sealing them up. Once rear subframe is back on and the car is rolling, will stick it on the ramp and underseal the transmission tunnel/mid chassis area. Started the long and arduous process of removing the dust and surface rust from rear subframe. Ears are still ringing from the noise the bloody wirewheel on grinder makes. Still need to do the other side of the frame, then go back over again with more detail wheels to get in all the nook and crannies, before treating everything with anti rust before I can seal + paint. Another 5 hours if I'm lucky...yay Engine is dissembled now as well. head gasket and head look to be in good condition, but thinking I will get the valves reseated as there is some carbon buildup. Block needs a bit more cleaning + taping up before I can paint it. As I'm planning on wiretucking the engine bay loom, had to ditch the brittle plastic covers that sit near the headlight in favor of some tesa loom tape. Pretty impressed with the tape so far, think it looks a lot nicer than the stock loom cable protectors. Ordered some more of it and high heat resistant version so I can redo the engine and engine bay looms in it. Got two days of work still, so will continue living in the workshop more updates soon Edited April 10, 2016 by Mike2JZ (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 Block paint is on. need to cure it still, but won't happen for another few days still Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share Posted April 15, 2016 So after much wire wheeling & anti rust treatments, sub frame was finally ready for some anti rust primer. Followed up by two coats of gloss black paint & a final layer of hammerite underseal. Stuck some of the arms on for a quick photo Now that subframe is ready to go again, I got a couple of new arms to replace the traction/toe rods that were knackered on mine. Also prepped the diff by giving the mating surfaces a clean, ready for new gasket. I should paint the diff to match the subframe, but don't know if I can stand doing any more wire wheeling. Received a full engine gasket kit today as well as new cambelt/cambelt tensioner etc so I can start making progress on the engine next. Sending my head off this weekend to be: - Washed - Measured for straightness/warpage, skimmed if required - Vavles grinded & reseated - Replace valve stem seals with new ones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clay Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 looking good mate. you have been bizy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supraleeturbo Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 nice to see it being done the right way mate well done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Raven Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 The ramp fitted then. Bravo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniel4781 Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 Yeah, as lee said above! Really nice to see people go the extra mile and get it done properly.. Great Work. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted April 20, 2016 Author Share Posted April 20, 2016 Thanks dudes. So I had a bit of a fail, dropping my iPhone out of a moving car the other day, so all the photos I've taken from the last few days have disappeared into the nether. So I'm going old school using an old nokia brick and writing out what's been happening recently till I can get something else to take photos with again. - A while back I picked up some tein superstreets for the front and quite liked them. The rear set had been sold to a member here 'sidewaysdan'. after slowly pestering him for them he agreed to sell them to me so I could have a matching set. Drove up to milton keynes with a dying Mercedes and picked them up. Thank you so much dan was great meeting you - All remaining suspension arms were loosely fitted to subframe, which was then mounted back on the car. - Frustrated myself trying to work out why I couldn't get the drive shafts to go back into the diff/hub, when I learnt that the driveshafts after slightly different sized, swapped them round and went in like a glove. - The stock differential front mounts were pretty shite, and were allowing for the diff to have a lot of movement which could be heard occasionally when driving the car. I wanted to replace with vibratechnics but couldn't afford to stretch that far for their offering, so settled with the superpro diff ear mount kit. I'm not a fan of using polybushes, but for £50 I thought I'd give it a go seeing as toyota does not offer an oem replacement. - With the diff/arms & teins installed, I got round to torquing all bolts/nuts to spec. Very happy to see that the camber bolts move now as well, so looking good for geo setup in the future. I just need to get some new rear drop links and re-install the rear sway bay for the rear end to be completed. - Took my head to a local engineering firm and we spent some time inspecting it to see what needed to be done to refresh it a little. Firstly the head face had very good gasket coverage/sealing as seen by the marks left over, but on cyl 1 & 6, about 30% of the headgasket seal had some blow. So there will be a very light skim to make the surface flat again, ready for the new headgasket. Then did a fluid leak test, and none of the valves leaked fluid. However, some of the intake valves under about 190psi airline were allowing some moisture build up. Exhaust side was leak free even under pressure. Overall the valves were in good condition given their mileage, and there was no major leaks but I wouldn't say that the valves were sealing 100% on the intake side. Valves will be grinded/cleaned and retested. Once done the head can be cleaned and re-assembled onto block. Oh and new valve stem seals are being installed - Also sold my current JR10 wheels to another member on here, so hoping to get a set of wider offset width wheels which can help fill the rear arches a bit at the start of next month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 Did you put new core plugs in the block? Just doing an engine out as someone thought they looked fine when it was out last month. They nearly always look fine from the outside Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted April 20, 2016 Author Share Posted April 20, 2016 (edited) Did you put new core plugs in the block? Just doing an engine out as someone thought they looked fine when it was out last month. They nearly always look fine from the outside No I haven't touched anything on the block Edit: I didn't noticed any leaks from any of the plugs when I cleaned the blocks. Hopefully they last me a bit longer Edited April 20, 2016 by Mike2JZ (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 Put new ones in, trust me, there's this thing called Sod's Law and it loves to apply itself to core plugs.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted April 20, 2016 Author Share Posted April 20, 2016 Put new ones in, trust me, there's this thing called Sod's Law and it loves to apply itself to core plugs.... Good point, doesn't look like they are that difficult to replace either. Do you know a place to get them in the UK, or do I need to go through toyota? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 I might have a set but can't check until the weekend. They are quite dear from Toyota I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted April 20, 2016 Author Share Posted April 20, 2016 I might have a set but can't check until the weekend. They are quite dear from Toyota I think. Ok sounds good. Otherwise might risk it for another 6 months till I pull the engine out again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Still haven't sorted a new camera, but managed to steal a few photos from my friends phone this weekend. So this weekend: - Fuel tank cleaned and re-installed back on the car. Fuel tank cover wheeled back and new layer of etch primer & gloss black finish - Engine bay loom has been re-installed and routed for as much wire tucking as possible. (Keeping the fusebox where it is, and had to extend the ABS pump wires to be able to reach into the wing, but other then that it was quite simple to tuck everything away) Had some extra wrinkle black paint that I figured might look ok on the brake booster, as the black finish on it from factory was looking tired. Not sure how I feel about it to be honest, kind of wishing I just did a fresh coat of gloss black. But done now, so will re-assess it once everything is back in engine bay. After cleaning the brake & clutch cylinders, it was time to dive under the dash and get frustrated with the lack of space tightening them down. Also got round to putting the brake/clutch hardline back into the slave & abs pump. Feeling like I will redo the brake hardline on the car one day, not a fan of the factory ones. Thinking of having the iron color block/ally head to be contrasted by black engine components. So went with wrinkle black rocker covers to see what they looked like. Finally, moved to the engine loom and started getting rid of all the brittle plastic and loom tape in favor of TESA 51025 for cables not sitting directly near a heat source, and TESA 51026 for the contrary. Took a while, but pretty happy with the end result and nice to have plug separated by their individual cables Should be getting my head back from machining this thursday, so getting arp stud kit in preparation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra_ufo Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 looking great mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted April 28, 2016 Author Share Posted April 28, 2016 Got my head back today and happy with the results Loving the smooth finish, almost don't want to put it back on the car Head had a basic clean, with the valves cleaned and regrounded before being leak tested again. New valve stem seals are also in Once head is back on the car I will spend some more time cleaning the head, but looks a lot better than what it was already Also sprayed cleaned to cams back to metal before applying new cast iron vht paint Also got round to installing new fuel filter. No idea if the old one has ever been changed so will cut it open on the weekend and see what's inside So got the bank holiday weekend coming up, will focus on getting the engine fully rebuilt and hopefully ready to back into the car. can't wait! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Raven Posted April 29, 2016 Share Posted April 29, 2016 Nice work dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.