abtin90 Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 stock bud, be tastefully done, coilovers, wheels, job done Any idea on what colour you'll be going for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Best of luck with the project G, now put down the spanners, make a cup of tea and watch these. Ignore the fact its a BMW lump, its a cast iron block & an alloy head, the same as the 2JZ. The attention to detail is quite something. It'll either inspire you to great things or you'll padlock the shed and never return to it! [video=youtube;1Doa-0M2flg] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted September 4, 2014 Author Share Posted September 4, 2014 subscribed. Good luck with the build. cheers bud Good luck mate FUD! Any idea on what colour you'll be going for? Have no idea yet bud, just looking at creating the engine first. Best of luck with the project G, now put down the spanners, make a cup of tea and watch these. Ignore the fact its a BMW lump, its a cast iron block & an alloy head, the same as the 2JZ. The attention to detail is quite something. It'll either inspire you to great things or you'll padlock the shed and never return to it! Saved for later, to calm me down, rusted NUT is making pull my hair out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted September 4, 2014 Author Share Posted September 4, 2014 (edited) Finally on a Stand, managed to shorten the rope, its still attached to the crane for saftey, just don't have the confidence to let the stand hold it, its a far old weight the bitch. Whoops Coolant Spillage, was a twat to clean up Started to pull out the Harness to give me access to the Turbo side, i'll leave as is, until i have the turbo side off. Then pull the entire harness out Started pulling off the turbo side now, with the small metal pipes. and the small rubber hoses that go along with it, blimey there is loads no wonder boost leaks can happen easy Now starting to get into the turbos, and finding some rusty bolts, soaked them in WD40 and came in for some food, oh and to calm down, little swearing was involved. This is where i am at present, i might spend a little more time on it, later, and get the turbo's off(They will be fore sale soon) will check em over anyway to make sure there is no play, and all ok? Edited September 4, 2014 by Geo (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted September 4, 2014 Author Share Posted September 4, 2014 Swear tin has started, So as i was waiting for the wd40 to start working, i thought id loosen the bolts around the cam cover, does this loads of times, and even fitted the gasket to my white ca when i had it, so i knew what i was doing, all was going good then 1 nut was tight it was turning, then SNAP, bleep, bleep, bleep, this went on for about 60secs straight, the result, im going to have to try and drill it out, and retap the hole. So the other thing i was wrestling with was the last nut that holds the heat shield in, this was being a pain in my ass, again WD40 left it to soak in, but the nuts are so fragile now and soft i can forsee me losing the plot with them, lol BANG THIS HAPPENED Another nut dead that sits into the turbo So i left the turbos as i was getting annoyed, and soaked them in WD40 once again to help see if they will come loose, if not then i might need to apply some heat on them. I turned my attention to the water neck, this was swiftly taken out, and put to one side. also took the fan off, as it was getting in my way, So i left it for now, i still have the 3 bolts that are a pain to reach where the turbos meet the manifol to get off, im working through the blitz turbo thread for idea's on getting them out. Ps the nuts that have broken, is it possible to drill, then tap then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 (edited) Yeah, I can usually recover something like that by getting the dead centre of the snapped stud and drilling into it with a drill bit in the tapping size for the hole the stud snapped in. For example the snapped studs look to be M6, so drill a 5mm hole through the remaining part of the stud and VERY CAREFULLY start running an M6 tap with the correct pitch (1.00 possibly) into what is left in the hole. I cannot stress enough that if you break the tap in the hole you can forget about getting it out so work the tap very slowly and carefully with tapping fluid, removing it often and clearing any debris out of the hole. If the tap goes solid do not force it, take it out and run the 5mm drill through the hole again. I've made many a save with this method, just take your time, be as accurate as you can with the drilling and do not employ the big guns! Edited September 4, 2014 by pedrosixfour (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 In relation to the cam cover stud, if when you remove the cam cover there is a bit of the stud still protruding from the head another possible method of removal is to place a 6mm nut (if it is a 6mm stud) on the protrusion and weld the two together. The transfer of heat from the weld through the stud and into the alloy will probably help ease the bind and get things moving again. That is all providing you haven't pick-up on the thread already, in that case the thread in the alloy will be knackered completely getting the stud out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted September 4, 2014 Author Share Posted September 4, 2014 Yeah, I can usually recover something like that by getting the dead centre of the snapped stud and drilling into it with a drill bit in the tapping size for the hole the stud snapped in. For example the snapped studs look to be M6, so drill a 5mm hole through the remaining part of the stud and VERY CAREFULLY start running an M6 tap with the correct pitch (1.00 possibly) into what is left in the hole. I cannot stress enough that if you break the tap in the hole you can forget about getting it out so work the tap very slowly and carefully with tapping fluid, removing it often and clearing any debris out of the hole. If the tap goes solid do not force it, take it out and run the 5mm drill through the hole again. I've made many a save with this method, just take your time, be as accurate as you can with the drilling and do not employ the big guns! In relation to the cam cover stud, if when you remove the cam cover there is a bit of the stud still protruding from the head another possible method of removal is to place a 6mm nut (if it is a 6mm stud) on the protrusion and weld the two together. The transfer of heat from the weld through the stud and into the alloy will probably help ease the bind and get things moving again. That is all providing you haven't pick-up on the thread already, in that case the thread in the alloy will be knackered completely getting the stud out. cheers bud, will get another look at it tomorrow or sat, cam cover onepossibly could have a protruding spline, so im thinking to nuts on top of each other, locking them in, then using the bottom nut to turn and draw out the spline. The one on the turbo could be a little trickier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 (edited) If you do have the room to use locknuts apply a bit of heat to the area anyway if you can. As well as the heat and again, if there is room, try to screw the stud back into the hole a bit and then "rock" it back and forth as you attempt to screw it out. The constant change of direction can help stop it binding on the thread again as you are only screwing it out a little at a time before releasing the friction build up. The lesson to be learned today from all this is that if a fastener is getting harder to turn, when it should be getting easier, stop & go back a bit. Edited September 5, 2014 by pedrosixfour (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethr Posted September 5, 2014 Share Posted September 5, 2014 WD40 isn't the best penetrating fluid. Arm yourself with something like PlusGas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted September 6, 2014 Author Share Posted September 6, 2014 So got some more stuff done today, finally got the turbos off, those bottom nuts on the manifold are a pain in the ass to reach, but we're easier to get to than the ones that hold the turbo's to the manifold. Also pulled off the alternator and belt. Engine is now on the stand being held on by the M12X1.25 Grade8 bolts, with some washers and spacers. Up next is the Intake side which can't be as hard as the turbo side surely? Question regarding the crack, do i need a locking too? Turbo's off Twin Turbo's Loved taking it apart and finding more about the Engine, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LOGIE Posted September 6, 2014 Share Posted September 6, 2014 Great thread so far. Did you import the engine or buy from a member buddy? Subscribed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted September 6, 2014 Author Share Posted September 6, 2014 Great thread so far. Did you import the engine or buy from a member buddy? Subscribed. Bought it from Lee bud, so struck a deal with him. i got it picked up from work, Plan is to fully strip it, then rebuild from ground up, be like a new engine once we're done. Means i know its going to be able to handle what we through at it Intake side to be stripped soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Budz86 Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 Looks like good progress so far mate As someone said earlier, arm yourself with PlusGas. Helped me no end when changing the turbos, only rounded one bolt and that was one of the 3 turbo to downpipe ones and it's because I got impatient and used an impact gun! Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LOGIE Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 Bought it from Lee bud, so struck a deal with him. i got it picked up from work, Plan is to fully strip it, then rebuild from ground up, be like a new engine once we're done. Means i know its going to be able to handle what we through at it Intake side to be stripped soon Good to see you bought it from a reputable source. I imported mine via Jurgen. I would worry buying an engine on here sometimes. There are some GTE lumps going around that have been in 3+ cars with questionable milage but as your doing a full rebuild this wont be a problem mate. Im keen to see this develop. You got a finish date in mind? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted September 7, 2014 Author Share Posted September 7, 2014 Looks like good progress so far mate As someone said earlier, arm yourself with PlusGas. Helped me no end when changing the turbos, only rounded one bolt and that was one of the 3 turbo to downpipe ones and it's because I got impatient and used an impact gun! Lol rounded nuts or bolts are a nightmare and a pain in my ass, lol old school no impact gun here, just brute force with my guns Good to see you bought it from a reputable source. I imported mine via Jurgen. I would worry buying an engine on here sometimes. There are some GTE lumps going around that have been in 3+ cars with questionable milage but as your doing a full rebuild this wont be a problem mate. Im keen to see this develop. You got a finish date in mind? No idea mate, will come down to funds i reckon, prob could have it built in under 3 months, funds available though, just gona take my time with it, and do what i can, still saving for wedding mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted September 11, 2014 Author Share Posted September 11, 2014 (edited) So managed to spend a few hours on the car today, and fully strip the Intake side, fuel rails, oil housing, etc. Below is some pics of what we did to day. Had a go at removing the pretruding stud from the cam cover, plus gas on it, we managed to get it turningthen bam, broke again, so looks as though it will need drilled and maybe tapped again. think i'll try welding a little nut on top, and see if it will pop out? Other than that, the intake side is far easier to remove that the turbo side, access to all bolts is pretty easy. Just need to find a allan key that suits the nuts on top to loosen the head from block, and also a crank tool to crack the nut. Getting there now. Ordered a gasket set, these are usually expensive as hell, but got one from my dealer for £289 in vat, thats with a 7% discount Plenum Intake off Harness hanging loose Inside the runners what looks to be oil in some of the connector holder Harness, this is one heavy beeatch! Fuel Rail Part of thr fuel rail system and off oil housing off Stripped All in all, im happy with how its been stripped just one bolt to get out which is causing a problem, engine looks in really good condition, just need to now, crack crank nut, crack head bolts, pull head, then totaly disasemble the entire block, and rebuild Edited September 11, 2014 by Geo (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Shane_ Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 nice work dude, looking forward to seeing how this turns out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 you won't need a tool if you turn the engine and remove the sump(s) and then wedge the crank. However you need serious torque on the crank nut so a air gun would be ideal at this point...assuming you don't have one I'd support the block under the block near the pulley bit of 2" by 4" would do (to ensure you don't stress/bend the mounting point of the stand) and then you'll need to brace the whole stand or have someone hug it etc as you put a long bar on the nut and try and loosen it. You need to ensure the block is as fixed as possible, which is difficult on a stand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony tt Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 I'm surprised he hasn't Hulked it by now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Budz86 Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Ah crap! This has just reminded me that I haven't cracked the crank pulley nut on mine either! Good work so far Geo. You decided on the spec for the rebuild yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Scotty 88 Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Absoulate awesome bud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted September 11, 2014 Author Share Posted September 11, 2014 you won't need a tool if you turn the engine and remove the sump(s) and then wedge the crank. However you need serious torque on the crank nut so a air gun would be ideal at this point...assuming you don't have one I'd support the block under the block near the pulley bit of 2" by 4" would do (to ensure you don't stress/bend the mounting point of the stand) and then you'll need to brace the whole stand or have someone hug it etc as you put a long bar on the nut and try and loosen it. You need to ensure the block is as fixed as possible, which is difficult on a stand. Yeah i'll have a few bodies rounds to either stablise the stand, and i've got some wood here to lock it into place if needed, when we go ahead and crack the crank nut. Hodge is bringing his tool up with him. Sure that will help big time. I'm surprised he hasn't Hulked it by now. No hulk rage yet, which is surprising Ah crap! This has just reminded me that I haven't cracked the crank pulley nut on mine either! Good work so far Geo. You decided on the spec for the rebuild yet? You rebuilding your engine also bud? Not yet, still working on stripping the engine, then getting it all cleaned, then i'll start thinking about Spec. Water pump, and gasket set all ordered, and will order most of my stuff on pay day.Prob from Dane. few things i wana do some searching on for price, but all looks good so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luxluc Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Great project mate. Respect for doing the works by yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LOGIE Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Great progress so far Geo. Well done. Im watching this with serious interest. Im sure this will be something special once finito. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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