carbonetics triple clutch issus again !

[Jellybean]

Interesting read; I have a Carbonetics Triple in my car last 3 years plus (not too sure how long it was in the car in Japan) but I have zero issues. I did read the instructions on the clutch and was aware not to slip her from more than 2-3 secs; but them again my car is only BPU.

 

The only thing I do not like about the Clutch is the heavy pedal, I just presume it was installed in Japan because the orginal owner had big plans for the car.

 

My release bearing is creaking now, when you engage the clutch, needs a regrease but going to replace it for good measure.

 

You guys have had alot of experience installing them at this stage,

 

I see carbonetics said "the Carbonetic Supra clutch is a little heavier on the foot than all our other clutches, but its only marginal and feels a tad heavier than stock"

Mine is about 60%-75% heaver than stock, my friend cannot even press it down ha ha; I was going to replace the master clyinder too but maybe it is a heavy pressure plate!

 

Two Q's

1. If i get all OEM fittings (release bearing, flywheel bolts etc) I presume these will all fit?
   
2. Is you clutch heavy, 60%-75% heaver than stock? Car was always like this
   

[Krister]

Bumping this thread..

 

My friend has the Carbonetics clutch and the clutch pedal has become super stiff and the biting point is very near to the floor and it's very hard to get in to gear now. We've adjusted the clutch pedal rod and bled the system but it doesnt help. The clutch slipped once for 1-2 seconds at 5th gear as the car has around 900hp+, so maybe it warped the clutch discs then?

 

I also now bought a second Supra that has the Carbonetics and it also has a very stiff pedal and biting point is near the floor. This car only has around 650hp, so it should have had an easy life. I still havent tried to adjust the rod on the clutch, but just got to think that what it is with these clutches? I've had my Exedy triple for four years and 20-30k miles and it's still perfect.

 

So to get my car working, should I adjust the pedal rod or drill the slave cylinder bolt holes U-shaped to get more travel? Seems a little like a band aid, it shouldnt be like this. But is this the only way to get the clutch working better?

[Mario]

^^Before adjusting anything i'd just get the clutch off and get them plates measured on thickness, get the instructions manual aside and see if it's beyond factory thickness. Manual says that clutch will handle differently when plates are nearly finished, if plates are good then go from there.

[Paul Whiffin]

Bumping this thread..

 

My friend has the Carbonetics clutch and the clutch pedal has become super stiff and the biting point is very near to the floor and it's very hard to get in to gear now. We've adjusted the clutch pedal rod and bled the system but it doesnt help. The clutch slipped once for 1-2 seconds at 5th gear as the car has around 900hp+, so maybe it warped the clutch discs then?

 

I also now bought a second Supra that has the Carbonetics and it also has a very stiff pedal and biting point is near the floor. This car only has around 650hp, so it should have had an easy life. I still havent tried to adjust the rod on the clutch, but just got to think that what it is with these clutches? I've had my Exedy triple for four years and 20-30k miles and it's still perfect.

 

So to get my car working, should I adjust the pedal rod or drill the slave cylinder bolt holes U-shaped to get more travel? Seems a little like a band aid, it shouldnt be like this. But is this the only way to get the clutch working better?

 

Sounds like you have the dredded Carbonetics warped plates I'm afraid. Last time we repaired a clutch with this issue it was about £1000 to repair approx. You'll need a rebuild kit from Carbonetics....

[Krister]

What causes the pedal to be so stiff? Is it because the discs are warped and there is not enough room for them to move between the flywheel and pressure plate?

 

My cars clutch isnt that stiff as as my friends clutch, it's more of the biting point issue. I'll try to adjust the pedal and see if it helps.

[Slutters]

I had issues getting my Spec Super Twin plate clutch to engage gears correctly, in the end I fitted a 3/4 Master cylinder so It moves more fluid and its been fine!

[Chris Wilson]

Excess heat will have warped the plates or damaged the cover or spring. There are very few clutches that will survive drag race starts in cars of this sort of weight. And even they have to be considered sacrificial. A PROPER carbon / carbon clutch as fitted to F3's, and other serious race cars, that will survive serious heat are very very expensive and need regular maintenance. Whilst the likes of AP and Sachs could build something that would survive they certainly wouldn't sell many. Lengthening the slave cylinder push rod, or slotting the slave cylinder mounting holes will not increase bearing travel. What it will do is reduce needed bearing clearance until the bearing is turning all the time, and then THAT will fail. Sounds like you need to re-think the type of clutch to use, or usage habits.

[Slutters]

Lengthening the slave cylinder push rod, or slotting the slave cylinder mounting holes will not increase bearing travel. What it will do is reduce needed bearing clearance until the bearing is turning all the time, and then THAT will fail. Sounds like you need to re-think the type of clutch to use, or usage habits.

 

 

The stock master is 5/8" and mine is now 3/4", I think a lot of the aftermarket kits now come with them, can you see that causing any issues apart from overstoking?

[Chris Wilson]

No, it's something I have suggested for years, that or a smaller bore slave cylinder. If the clutch kinematics were correct for the car and its stock hydraulics you would, of course, have no need for this. Obviously you need to measure the bearing throw and fit a pedal stop if required. Bit of a minefield, modern clutches!

[Slutters]

Thanks Chris, just wanted to check.

[Guest MACA33]

Is there a clutch that can handle both drag racing and track?

[Chris Wilson]

Drag race clutches are sacrificial. Like putting petrol in the tank, or new tyres on. The more power, the more grip and the heavier the car the more insane the heat build up. It's one of the reasons I think drag racing is ridiculous, the cost V seat time in the car is ludicrous. There are specific drag race clutches, usually with centrifugal weights to tailor the grip versus RPM. They are no doubt exppensive and still will need regular maintenance, and parts renewal.

 

Race tracks are far far kinder on clutches, hell, many races these days are even a rolling start I don't think I have ever done one single hard standing start with my track day Skyline, I measured the clutch plates etcetera last time it was apart, after 20 + track days, and they were within 2 thou of new thickness. I am so kind to clutches they send me Christmas cards!

[Guest Nycvr6]

I have a brand new tilton triple disc carbon clutch kit from titan for sale, its that last clutch you will ever need. There is a one month back order on them, mine hipped out to me today. I can take a couple little off the price for a fellow supra guy and do free shipping if anyone is interested! This is BRAND NEW, its on its way from tilton to me now. Contact me if anyone is interested. Thanks!!!!

[Guest Nycvr6]

I see the questions, the tilton can handle street, drag, track, anything you throw at it. IT grabs like crazy but slips, it almost seems impossible. I once strted in 3rd gear with that clutch without touching the accelerator at all. IT is the perfect clutch, stock pedal feel, and all. Someone should jumpmon this because it wont be around long, and you can save a few bucks and a month backorder. I have a brand new suckerpunch short shifter for sale as well which rocks. I drove it in a friends car, went home and ordered it. message me or email me for info or any interest. You can save some money and waiting time on some of the best parts [email protected]