w41k3r Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 sweet mate think id do it the long way and piece it bit by bit lol over time youve made me feel abit easier about the drilling the block to as i think id skip that and just put the tt sump on it may even just get another engine and do the build on that lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 this i have been reading through its very interesting and might help some people. http://www.clubna-t.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6895 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamuraiFlash Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 So is 300-330 bhp feasible with an autobox? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w41k3r Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 is this similar to what jamie p had as his idea i realise the turbos prob not great quality but just as it has the wastgate built in http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/T3-T4-V-Band-Turbocharger-Turbo-A-R-50-w-Wastegate_W0QQitemZ120532820368QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item1c1050e190 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 sweet mate think id do it the long way and piece it bit by bit lol over time youve made me feel abit easier about the drilling the block to as i think id skip that and just put the tt sump on it may even just get another engine and do the build on that lol I wouldnt even think of building an NA-T engine if i was you unless you know exactly what your doing. The general talk about just dumping on a thick HG to lower CR is just crap as theres alot more to it than that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w41k3r Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 yeah me, my bro and his mate would do the build and keep it low bhp and psi without changing headgasket ect just to have around the 300bhp mark no more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Whats the point of buying another engine then to do a low hp and boost build? May aswel just do it on the 1 in the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w41k3r Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 it was for more of a learning curve for me as it would be the first one ive messed with and didnt want to knacker my own lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Raven Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Once again the dreams of a cheap 300bhp n/a are ruined. Still hope with the supercharger route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 I wouldnt even think of building an NA-T engine if i was you unless you know exactly what your doing. The general talk about just dumping on a thick HG to lower CR is just crap as theres alot more to it than that. what els is there ? 1.3mm steel gasket will lower compression, obviously you will need bigger injectors and a ecu and map to match , you will also need a stronger gear box and clutch. there is no need to change the pistons as ther are many setups state side 500 + with the standard intake and internals. the only other thing i can think would be needed is and electronic ignition sytem like the the tt as im not sure how mutch timeing you can pull with the dissy cap anything els? by the way way this is a genuine question, not a dig , if there is more to it i have not been informed about i would like to know craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 its not realling drilling the block as such. you buy a theaded head union bolt form lexues that holds the filter housing on for the feed. and the sump is the same as the tt sump but the returne plate is just blocked off, so you drill that out, ( alu so goes through like butter) and tap the holes that allready either side of it , viola you have your oil ways so even if you do bugger up the drilling, you just put a new sump on, no need to touch the engine block Out of interest, how did you go about drilling the sump? Did you do it in situ or did you remove it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 what els is there ? 1.3mm steel gasket will lower compression, obviously you will need bigger injectors and a ecu and map to match , you will also need a stronger gear box and clutch. there is no need to change the pistons as ther are many setups state side 500 + with the standard intake and internals. the only other thing i can think would be needed is and electronic ignition sytem like the the tt as im not sure how mutch timeing you can pull with the dissy cap anything els? by the way way this is a genuine question, not a dig , if there is more to it i have not been informed about i would like to know craig Its not things like that im referring to, its the effects a thicker HG has on actual engine efficiency, i.e. SQUISH/QUENCH. The only way to lower compression the correct way IMO is always though the piston and then run with a NA HG. That way your squish band remains the same and efficient and your CR is around 9.0:1 which is a good figure for a street car. Out of interest, how did you go about drilling the sump? Did you do it in situ or did you remove it? Id hope he took it off or he would have a load of dangerous shaving floating around in the oil! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Its not things like that im referring to, its the effects a thicker HG has on actual engine efficiency, i.e. SQUISH/QUENCH. The only way to lower compression the correct way IMO is always though the piston and then run with a NA HG. That way your squish band remains the same and efficient and your CR is around 9.0:1 which is a good figure for a street car. Id hope he took it off or he would have a load of dangerous shaving floating around in the oil! i see. so low comp pistons is the best way to go, as for the sump i did do it in the car. the way i did it was to raise the one side of the engine so i could access the plug. then i removed the sump plug and drained the oil. after i drilled the hole i poured liters of old oil straight down my new oil return line and staight out the bottom of the sump to flush it and check the fixing wasnt leaking. one the oil was running clean with no swarf i stoped. i then pu the oil feed into the return put 5 litres of chep oil in and run the engine for a few mins . i then drained it again and changed the oil filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 (edited) as for the sump i did do it in the car. the way i did it was to raise the one side of the engine so i could access the plug. then i removed the sump plug and drained the oil. after i drilled the hole i poured liters of old oil straight down my new oil return line and staight out the bottom of the sump to flush it and check the fixing wasnt leaking. one the oil was running clean with no swarf i stoped. i then pu the oil feed into the return put 5 litres of chep oil in and run the engine for a few mins . i then drained it again and changed the oil filter. Let's hope no swarf made it into your oil pump, which draws its oil supply direct from the sump then feeds it to the oil filter. Edited February 23, 2010 by Miguel (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 well i did mine over 2 nearly three years ago and my oil pump is still fine. as i said i flushed the sump alot with the engine off before i ran it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Only way to find out if its actualy gone... take filter off and split it then check for shavings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 have done 3 times since the conversion. clean as a whistle every time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 yea you could put a tt sump on and is all done. yes i did my own , wasnt really a problem. Where did you take the oil feed from? In the TT the feed is in the side of the block, so was always under the impression this was a complete engine rebuild to complete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Where did you take the oil feed from? In the TT the feed is in the side of the block, so was always under the impression this was a complete engine rebuild to complete. Oil filter housing bolt mod or oil pressor sensor port. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 (edited) You can get an is300 union bolt which bolts the oil filter onto the block which has a pre threaded hole in it as thats where the 300 takes the oil pressure readings from like the vvti NA's Edited February 23, 2010 by Kirk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Oil filter housing bolt mod or oil pressor sensor port. You can get an is300 banjo bolt which bolts the oil filter onto the block which has a pre threaded hole in it as thats where the 300 takes the oil pressure readings from like the vvti NA's Ahah, got it, Thanks That makes the feed simple, but the drain is still a pain. I really wouldn't want to drill the sump plate without taking it off the engine first. To much risk of contamination. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 yes i found out about the lexus pre threaded union bolt about 20 mins after i drilled and tapped my filter housing union bolt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 yes i found out about the lexus pre threaded union bolt about 20 mins after i drilled and tapped my filter housing union bolt But you can sit back in the knowledge that you saved yourself circa 20 notes for a bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 But you can sit back in the knowledge that you saved yourself circa 20 notes for a bolt. lol yea but it cost me 3 drill bits 1 hour of my time and about 10 lbs of raw flesh from my knuckles : Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 (edited) To be honest when doing any turbo build IMO money shouldnt become a concern. If you cant afford to do it then dont That makes the feed simple, but the drain is still a pain. I really wouldn't want to drill the sump plate without taking it off the engine first. To much risk of contamination. Thats the only way i would do it. It isnt that hard of a job to do if you ask me. Edited February 23, 2010 by Kirk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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