johnny g Posted May 12, 2010 Author Share Posted May 12, 2010 It's fine now, just needed a bit of pedal adjustment. It's heavy though!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 The ideal fix is a larger bore master cylinder, but this involves fabrication work. I did an adaptor for my Skyline running a bespoke release bearing assembly and something similar could be done on a MKIV. I need to post pics to someone doing a bespoke set up on a V8 in a Soarer, I'll copy here later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
little num Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 Well i have been ringing around looking for a clutch for my 1jz i have fitted in my n/a, and most companys who sold RPS now dont, 3 companys who sold them said they are rubbish and dont use them as if they fail RPS dont take responsibility for them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nodalmighty Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 I'm pretty sure it'll be the adjustment nut on the back of the pedal. Wind it in / out whichever way it needs to go. If you run out of travel, then look for something else... What he said, we used to have to mess about with MR2's clutch pedal adjuster all the time after fitting these at Rogue. They also always smell clutchy for a bit too. Lyndon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky49 Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 LeeP fitted mine and the bite point is also very low. Lee spoke with MVP and they say this is how it is. I don't have any problems getting it in gear though. Once driving the bite point is similar to stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted May 12, 2010 Author Share Posted May 12, 2010 Yea, my bite point is low as well. At my power levels, it'll last forever... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racman Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 The ideal fix is a larger bore master cylinder, but this involves fabrication work. I did an adaptor for my Skyline running a bespoke release bearing assembly and something similar could be done on a MKIV. I need to post pics to someone doing a bespoke set up on a V8 in a Soarer, I'll copy here later. Hi Chris to pick up on what your saying I have an old slave cylinder and have stripped it down what Im thinking of doing is have something welded to the back of the piston behind the seals which is ally then machined/turned which should change the amount of displacement in the bore which in theory should work,What you think ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 I think someone wasn't paying attention in physics class That won't work I am afraid You would need to reduce the diameter of the bore, piston and seal using a sleeve and alternative pistons and seals. the cost would be prohibitive. Will photo my master cylinder adaptor later. it's rough and ready as the whole drive line installation is going in a shell with a proper bias pedal box assemble remote from the bulkhead soon. Toyota do offer a smaller bore cylinder, there was a post listing part numbers, whether the smaller one (from an N/A I think) would be small enough, I don't know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigelboyne Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 I think someone wasn't paying attention in physics class That won't work I am afraid You would need to reduce the diameter of the bore, piston and seal using a sleeve and alternative pistons and seals. the cost would be prohibitive. Will photo my master cylinder adaptor later. it's rough and ready as the whole drive line installation is going in a shell with a proper bias pedal box assemble remote from the bulkhead soon. Toyota do offer a smaller bore cylinder, there was a post listing part numbers, whether the smaller one (from an N/A I think) would be small enough, I don't know. chris is the same system on a uk car or are they different to the jap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racman Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 Done some more thinking about this got a bit confussed and the only way to sort it is to get it sleeved I need to work out the volume of the bore as to assertain what diameter of sleeve I will need,then theres the problem of finding seals but Im not giving up just yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 Just try an N/A cylinder. Search on clutch cylinder sizes. It was a member from Scandinavia who did the research. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racman Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 Here's how I adapted a standard format race cylinder to my Skyline bulkhead, it too uses an offset flange clutch master cylinder as stock. The work to alter a MKIV will be almost identical. http://www.gatesgarth.com/master/master.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racman Posted May 15, 2010 Share Posted May 15, 2010 (edited) HELP Chris/Dude both of you have come across this issue before I have tried everything I know to get the clutch to release if I start it in gear clutch seems ok but I cannot select gears I would have to say these clutches are shit I've been outside in my garage all bloody day trying everything and still no joy I have measured the slave cylinder bore and its 20.6 mm so I dont know what else to do HELP its really pissed off this problem any ideas please :( Edited May 15, 2010 by Racman clef (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imi Posted May 15, 2010 Share Posted May 15, 2010 (edited) Yea, my bite point is low as well. At my power levels, it'll last forever... been running this RPS setup for the past 45K miles (BPU & Single) without any issues AND with a perfect bite point (not lower than stock) EDIT - im running a stock flywheel Edited May 15, 2010 by imi (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luxluc Posted May 15, 2010 Share Posted May 15, 2010 been running this RPS setup for the past 45K miles (BPU & Single) without any issues AND with a perfect bite point (not lower than stock) +1 I have a RPS clutch with RPS flywheel on my car for more than 2 years now. I love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigelboyne Posted May 15, 2010 Share Posted May 15, 2010 is the fly wheel noisy or does it rattle is it better to go with the original oem fly wheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luxluc Posted May 15, 2010 Share Posted May 15, 2010 is the fly wheel noisy or does it rattle is it better to go with the original oem fly wheel Matter of taste Nigel. It is noisy at low revs (for example, if you cruising in 5th gear at 2k and you accelerate, you hear the rattle quite well). I guess on an everyday car, it would be better with the OEM flywheel. But I like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rinus Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 Scandinavia?? http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=194804 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartW Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 I have ran my RPS streetmax now for 2 years, 180 drag runs and 2500 spirited miles, Its starting to drag again when hot, I am fitting a Braided hose line and fluid bleede soon will post results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racman Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 Hi guys well I've still got the same problem sometimes it will go into gear but most times it wont I'm using the smaller bore slave cylinder and a new master cylinder and still got the problem seems OK for a few minutes when engine is cold and to boot was going to be using it tomorrow for my daughters prom but it would be embarrassing so now I'm at a loss don't know what else to do,I have even drilled a new locater for the rod on the release bearing fork and adjusted the rod on the master cylinder as far as it will go without it falling of (IE) its on its last few threads :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racman Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 Bump bump:search: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racman Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 A well seems Im waisting my time cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 It wont help you but my old RPS lasted for 2000 miles and was scrap, mine was never right either. Not a clutch I would recommend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 I'm still on the one I bought when I first went single turbo Maybe you just aren't sympathetic enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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