cheekymonkey Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 Anyone reckon there's any recourse if clutch was supplied by a UK company? Problem is, it was not fitted by the supplier, but another garage, which I guess would be a way out for them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 (edited) You could, if you really wanted to, probably cure it with a clutch slave cylinder with a very slightly smaller bore, or a master cylinder witha very slightly larger bore. Whether anything that's a direct bolt on exists I don't know. Someone really keen could have a stock master cylinder bored and honed out and a new piston made, and a new, bigger seal sourced. Costs, unless you could machine it yourself, would be high.... I do have another idea, which may work, and would be cheap, I'd need someone to act as a Guinea pig, and to send me a spare clutch master cylinder to play with. If it works they can have the first one free, if it doesn't they've lost a cylinder... Edited February 10, 2009 by Chris Wilson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted February 10, 2009 Author Share Posted February 10, 2009 Well, you should read the warranty on the website - doesn't seem that way. Plus, I think we should ask them to check here and see just how many people are having this problem. Can't be good for their image? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 I have emailed them. Will let you know there reply Mine is the 6 puck version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 If you have any floor mats that get under the clutch pedal when depressed they'll make things a LOT worse. Selecting second or third then quickly going into first or reverse will probably help too. You shouldn't have to do any of this though.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibbleyuk Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 I may change mine, But what decent clutch can i get for the NA 5speed that will hold BPU+ levels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick001 Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 I may change mine, But what decent clutch can i get for the NA 5speed that will hold BPU+ levels? Good question - im sure lots of us are waiting for this answer as it appears more and more of us that went from n/a -TT, for example, are experiancing issues with this clutch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbonut Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 I have an RPS max street clutch fitted to my N/A (5 speed pre face lift) supra and have to say it can be a PINTA to get in reverse, embarassing when I'm trying to manouvre and everyone's looking gulp!! /vbb/images/smilies/bbcode_oops.gif Its also a bit stiff to get into 1st but to be honest as long as your fast on and off the clutch and don't expect to be able to balance it in traffic it makes for really quick gear changes It requires more foot pressure in first and reverse, I stomp hard on it and that seems to work!! All 8 stone plus of me To me its just part of the characteristics of that particular clutch, I don't think its any problem per se. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted February 10, 2009 Author Share Posted February 10, 2009 If you have any floor mats that get under the clutch pedal when depressed they'll make things a LOT worse. Selecting second or third then quickly going into first or reverse will probably help too. You shouldn't have to do any of this though.... Agreed, Chris. Right, my good ol' mate from Mr T has come around and adjusted the clutch pedal and I have to say it's miles better. 12 and 14 mm spanners required, lengthed the rod a little (personal preference) - et voila. About 5 minutes of tinkering under the pedals sorted it. Off out for a drive in a few ... will report back later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted February 10, 2009 Author Share Posted February 10, 2009 ....working fine for a ten min spin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartW Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 ....working fine for a ten min spin! i have used the RPS 6 puck for 3000 miles and found it stiff, shuddery and very on/off, but no problems with selection of gears. I have just ordered a new Street max clutch plate so hopefully mine will be OK? The MVP website has some good info that helped me understand the RPS range. "The Street max (Any Blue housed baskets) have a 38% higher spring finger pressure rating over stock" When i did my research i found the street max package (solid clutch plate) was a good compromise on drive ability and power holding abilities. When mine is fitted i will report my experiences. Stuart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 I got this reply Hi, I did talk with one other guy from the Uk about another clutch that was having similar problems to yours. From what he has said on the forums, adjusting the clutch pedal has solved all his problems. The easiest way to adjust the pedal is to loosen the jam nut on the clutch master rod and turn the rod by hand clockwise until you feel resistance. Now turn the rod counter-clockwise 1/2 a revolution and tighten the jam nut. If the clutch still engages too close to the floor, you can dis-connect the Cruise Control switch at the top of the pedal and than loosen its jam nut and srcew it out 1-2 turns. This will allow you to slightly raise the clutch pedal and re-adjust even more. Please let me know if this helps. One more thought- try bleeding the clutch fluid one more time to make sure there is no air in the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 Adjusting nearly all the free play out of the system is really a crutch to mask a cover that's not geometrically correct for the available stock bearing travel. The problems are you could adjust so there's no free play, and the bearing wears out, as do the pressure plate fingers, or you adjust so there's minimal free play, as they suggest, then as soon as a bit of wear occurs you are back to the bearing being in permanent contact with the fingers.... A linered slave cylinder would reduce its bore and fix things properly, as would a decent clutch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted February 11, 2009 Author Share Posted February 11, 2009 Adjusting nearly all the free play out of the system is really a crutch to mask a cover that's not geometrically correct for the available stock bearing travel. The problems are you could adjust so there's no free play, and the bearing wears out, as do the pressure plate fingers, or you adjust so there's minimal free play, as they suggest, then as soon as a bit of wear occurs you are back to the bearing being in permanent contact with the fingers.... A linered slave cylinder would reduce its bore and fix things properly, as would a decent clutch I agree there, Chris. I've used RPS in my MR2's with no problems - but I think I'll give this clutch a hard life for a bit and then move on to the next one - it won't be an RPS one, I can say that much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 I do have another idea, which may work, and would be cheap, I'd need someone to act as a Guinea pig, and to send me a spare clutch master cylinder to play with. If it works they can have the first one free, if it doesn't they've lost a cylinder... If i can source a spare cylinder Chris i will send one up to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 Johnny, how is the clutch now? Still working good? Do you still have some free play in the pedal with the amount you adjusted it? I haven't been in the footwell to look but I assume that lengthening the rod/adjuster will remove some of the free play, correct? My RPS clutch arrived from Kyle and I may be fitting it next weekend, just want to know how you got on with yours before I start mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibbleyuk Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Hello guys, Just want to make a note to you all i adjusted my clutch pedal to cure the problem and it only took about 6weeks and my release bearing went so i dont recommend doing that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted April 20, 2009 Author Share Posted April 20, 2009 Sorry, just seen this! Yea, my clutch is fine now - car is only used sparringly at weekends really, but it does get "used" Clutch is fine now, good bite, nice feel - it's a little heavy, but no issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Franko Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Just fitted this clutch and have the same issue, i think its best people steer away from this particular one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Just fitted this clutch and have the same issue, i think its best people steer away from this particular one Fitted by? Replaced both bearings and all snap rings? If johnny g's is fine, maybe in time yours will be too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibbleyuk Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 I have replaced my release bearing, bleed the system and put the peddle back to how it should be and mines ok for now! I will see... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 it won't be an RPS one, I can say that much. What would you go for Johnny? I've currently got CW's modified clutch, but I believe it started to slip on the dyno around 490ft/lb, so I'm contemplating getting something that can with stand more torque, however I don't really want to compromise usebility/drivability. Does anyone have any suggestions other then RPS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted May 7, 2009 Author Share Posted May 7, 2009 Well, after a few clutch pedal modifications it's become a lot better. But, I'd search for other options... Ask CW for what he recommends if you already like his current clutch setup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jazzy Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 The Southbend clutch in mine is very useable and I use mine as a daily Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racman Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 Guys I know this is a year old but did ye manage to sort out the problems as I have just fitted a rps clutch to my soarer and am sure Im going to have the same problems cheers if I had of read this thread first I would of stayed well clear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.