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warming car up before driving


carl0s
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I'm interested to know this too!! For all the new cars I've had before (mostly BMW's!), all advice has been specifically NOT to warm the car up before driving! Something to with fouling the plugs?

 

 

i'm glad you mentioned bmw's . have you had any problems with them? as when the engine is cold it over fuels damaging the rings+bores i have had first hand experance in this with a 1998 bmw which had 54000miles on it.and the engine was replaced by bmw free of charge as this fault on the engine is know to them. :rtfm:

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It's the autos mate.... higher the rpm the higher the creep generated by the TC. If I back mine out the driveway when it's cold I have to be steady on the brakes because it moves back a lot faster than when it's warm.

 

I was waiting for someone to point this out and I'm glad I'm not the only one! It's a proper pain in the **** trying to creep along with it idling at 1600 cos its cold!

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I'm interested to know this too!! For all the new cars I've had before (mostly BMW's!), all advice has been specifically NOT to warm the car up before driving! Something to with fouling the plugs?

I agree, that's what I've read aswell.

 

Just drive it but be gentle with your right foot until it's warmed up.

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i'm glad you mentioned bmw's . have you had any problems with them? as when the engine is cold it over fuels damaging the rings+bores i have had first hand experance in this with a 1998 bmw which had 54000miles on it.and the engine was replaced by bmw free of charge as this fault on the engine is know to them. :rtfm:

High sulphur in the petrol can the “Nikasil” cylinder liners in their alloy block to wear excessively.

 

"Nikasil" is a very hard dispersion layer of galvanically (electrolytically) applied Nickel applied to the soft alloy bores to prevent wear. If this hard layer is damaged, excessive bore wear occurs rapidly.

 

Some of the V8 Jags also had this problem.

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It's the autos mate.... higher the rpm the higher the creep generated by the TC. If I back mine out the driveway when it's cold I have to be steady on the brakes because it moves back a lot faster than when it's warm.

 

Thanks for pointing that out :)

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heh. I usually do. I go out the door, start the engine, then go back inside.

 

Here's something else to throw into the (supra specific) thing..

 

My car seems to 'learn' it's idle point after a while. If the car is not allowed to realise that it can idle at 600rpm, it won't, pretty much ever, until it's either restarted or given ages to 'learn' again.

 

It's like you're putting off the idle-learn thing.

 

Mine does a similar thing. I don't know if it's a fault with my car or if all (auto pre-facelift) supras are poor at adjusting the idle speed as the engine warms. When the car has warmed up, it doesn't always drop the idle speed. I can always get it to drop by putting it in neutral when the car is stationary - then after a few seconds it drops to 650rpm.

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I let me Supra tickover for about 2 mins only from a cold start. Engine wear is at its worst in the first 5 mins, so why strain it?

Dont think you could do much harm on warm starts.

 

 

Very good, and yes not much harm on wamr starts, but depends on how much everything is cooled.

 

The Oil is the main thing, and depending on what grade / age oil you have depends on how fast it will drop below effecient operating temperature for component protection etc etc.....

 

However, has everyone forgotten that no matter if your water temp is up, thie does NOT mean your oil is up to operating temperature.

 

Also it you let it idle for a while then go out and drive it hard, your diff and tranny oil is cold!!!!!!!!!

 

All I can say is, NO BOOST and below 3000 untill a good 5 mins past normal water temp.

 

BMW have a good model, and enyone who has driven an M3 E46 will know, the ECU wont let you rev the engine above 2500at absolute cold, then slowly dials in more revs as its gets warmer..

 

IMO!

 

M-Jay

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  • 1 year later...

Reading the official Supra Owners manual it says.

After the engine runs for about 10 seconds, you are ready to drive.

If the weather is below freezing, let the engine warm up for a few minutes before driving.

Personally I always keep the revs very low until up to temperature, but I rarely push the car anyway.

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I always warm the car up before driving , i can normally tell by the way the car feels if it is up to temp or not although if i know im going to give it some beans i will give at least 15 minutes driving around before letting no 2 come online.

Having a manaul box helps to keep me off the boost well pootling along in 5th or 6th :)

My alarm has the turbo timer function which i have set for 2 mins for the cool down afterwards.

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My alarm has the turbo timer function which i have set for 2 mins for the cool down afterwards.

 

2 mins? mine is on 30 seconds lol, but I always do the last mile or two home off boost at a gentle cruising pace. I let it idle for 30 seconds to a minute or so before setting off (longer would annoy the neighbours) but I don't boost until it's all warm and running nicely (find it runs a bit funny / jerky when cold anyway if you were to try and boost it).

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I never warm up my car before driving. I do stay under 3000rpm for at least 10 minutes. Then the engine should be warm enough to drive normally :)

 

Once I worked at a company where my boss had a Porsche and sometimes I drove with him to clients. One day it was -5C and he immediatly did 140mph!

Must be bad for the engine!

 

Greets,

 

Peter

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I'm very much against static 'warming'. 30seconds - 1 minute, whatever it takes to get it off the garage. That's plenty.

 

Best to get going with *minimal* throttle and only give it stick once the oil has warmed up (in the winter about 5 mins after the coolant is up to operating temp)

 

The supra intake has coolant all over it and underbonnet temps rise quickly, making sure atomisation is the best possible.

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I just drive off immediately, it's better for the engine than prolonged rich running during an idling warm up. If you are REALLY into saving the engine you need a Kenlowe engine preheater. I use them on the race cars, just bought another from an auction site. Do a search on Kenlowe and engine heater. they can be installed permanently, or as in race cars, via dry breaks in a water hose, and used EXternally. They even do a heater fan start up box, so the car is demisted and up to full internal temp ready and waiting to go.

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I just drive off immediately, it's better for the engine than prolonged rich running during an idling warm up. If you are REALLY into saving the engine you need a Kenlowe engine preheater. I use them on the race cars, just bought another from an auction site. Do a search on Kenlowe and engine heater. they can be installed permanently, or as in race cars, via dry breaks in a water hose, and used EXternally. They even do a heater fan start up box, so the car is demisted and up to full internal temp ready and waiting to go.

 

i like the idea of having one of them.....only £225

http://www.mgocaccessories.co.uk/acatalog/MGOC_Accessories__Kenlowe_139.html

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I always drive off form cold, but wait until everything is up to full operating temperature before I let the throttle feel my foot. There is a guy near here with a Red intergra type R he must hit 7000 RPM with in ten seconds of driving off. He still has not managed to blow it up yet.

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I get in the car, start it, put lunch on the back 'seat', remove the steering lock, disarm Blackjax, put the stereo in the slot, wait for other half to get in, faff with her bags, then I clear the front and rear screens, switch RLTC to the appropriate setting, turn off trac control, remember to put cd in slot, unfold the wing mirrors, put on my seatbelt, put the car into reverse and go.

 

I swear, some mornings I'm lucky to not run out of petrol before getting off the drive.

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I get in the car, start it, put lunch on the back 'seat', remove the steering lock, disarm Blackjax, put the stereo in the slot, wait for other half to get in...

 

Didnt you have to re-disarm Blackjax once your partner got in to stop the car cutting out with lights/sirens blaring a couply hundred yards down the road? :)

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Didnt you have to re-disarm Blackjax once your partner got in to stop the car cutting out with lights/sirens blaring a couply hundred yards down the road? :)

 

If I was being strictly accurate, then yes. Once to move the car from it's parking space so she can get in then again once she is in.

 

If you want you can start the car, disarm it and get in and out as much as you wich. Just don't dare move it!

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